Projects 1928 Model A 2 dr Phaeton Build

2 months late(r), finally got the passenger seat mounted.


Aligned the two rails, and welded it in.


Got all the seat mounts to match, that's rewarding:


And of course, the big question, does the seat fold forward?


YEP!



Elbow room is tight, but not bad at all:


Now onto Gas Pedal Bracket, finish the floors, and start on the plumbing.

 

Decided that the body needs to come off to do the floors properly, since I need access to the bottom, especially in the rear section. So it's getting lifted off today, and then I'll build a fixture to support it on it's firewall so I can stand it up on end and work on the bottom. Short of a rotisserie, which I don't have, this is the best way to get access.



Fore to aft bracing to allow the weight to be transmitted evenly through the body once on it's firewall, and sideways just to add a little support to the B pillars. All can be cut out once floors are done and the body is once again installed.

More pics to come.

 

I started out building a quick but strong framework for the firewall. It's clamped onto the horizontal seam and braced off the lips, so it's not deforming any metal.


After getting it 3ft in the air with the forklift, I switched to a transmission jack for a more precise lift:


The wheels in the corner of the firewall brace allows for an easy and smooth transition. From here it was just getting a couple guys under it to tip it to 90°


Lot of access on both sides to the floor now, and I can create all my filler pieces and get them fully welded in. Also finishing out the rockers and wheel wells.



And the bracing I installed this morning meant that nothing flexed or shifted. All body gaps remain the same and doors open and close perfectly.


So yeah, the chassis will get rolled next door for storage for awhile until this floor is 90% done, then I'll finish weld/grind everything underneath, and epoxy prime it before re-installing back on the chassis for plumbing.

 

Excellent idea on the dolly to safely tip the body over! As another non-rotisserie owning guy, I will have to borrow that one!

Where does the front bracing attach?


Ed

 

The 2 horizontal 2x4s are pinching onto the cowl seam, this is very strong by itself, but then I added the 2 beveled blocks on top to transfer more weight into the upper cowl seam. Obviously, the ratchet straps are doing the heavy lifting here, and once the floor is done I'll have to re do how the straps attach, but this method required no drilling into the body, and so far hasn't caused any damage or stress to the body.

Keep in mind though that a Model A body is 8' tall, so ceiling/light clearance should be taken into account.

 

Like how you have body standing but will it stay in that position when you undo to relocate straps? Also you will be adding weight with floor, are straps strong enough? I have straps like those. Wonder what body weights. Love your build.

 

Wondered where you’d been, looks good. Any thoughts towards a latch for the back of the front seats? I’ve toyed with a few ideas on mine.

I dig the bracing for sitting it on the firewall, I see them like that all the time with to bracing and it always makes me curious how good of an idea it is.

I’m wondering what the metal front to back brace to attached to at the front?


Thanks for the update

 

Innovative and cool! "More than one way to skin a cat",...right?
And watching with interest, your seat mounting design. Like you, seating for me requires location of the driver seat farther back, compromising access to the rear compartment. Further complication is I'd opt for a bench seat if I can pull it off. Every car I've ever had with buckets, probably still has stuff I've lost in the black hole between them.

 

It's bolted to the master cylinder bracket.


As for a latch for the seats, yeah I'm thinking either lunchbox style clasp or leather belt like period sports car hoods. Would definitely cut down on the passenger seat bouncing and driving me crazy if no one is sitting in it.

 

I was thinking a little trunk lid latch. Most of them are a little spring loaded hook and the lid (seat) has a bar/loop that goes into its jaws.

oh, and thanks for the extra brace photo

 

Something like this, obviously it would have to look more retro.

 

Hmmmm. Yeah I could see something cool there. Staying tuned!

 

Well, got some free time this afternoon, and thought I'd take a look at the So-Cal Speed Shop 4" dropped Forged front axle. You might remember I abandoned my old-chrome axle when discovering that not only was it giving way too much positive camber, but also was a cast item...



Very nice looking, heavier than I'd expect, but it's also stronger than the factory axles too.

I figured I'd go ahead and clean it up a bit, taking off that ugly spine from the forging process, and maybe see if I want to paint it or chrome it.





Then I started cleaning up porosities and browsing several fascinating threads on here about smoothing and polishing these things, and now it's getting outta hand.


I'm thinking I'm going to get this roughed out to 220grit, and then see what I think, but I'm inclined to have it and the rest of the front end chromed. I have a shop I use that does really nice work, but not over the top, and that would definitely keep with my period-look; since even back in the mid 50's they weren't shy about tossing some bling on their rides.

And before some here might chime in, I have considered Peaking the axle, but that may be far more labor than I'd like for a minor detail only a few would notice. Definitely consider filling until I saw how ugly that can quickly become. So I suspect I'll just smooth and polish all the exposed bits, leaving the inner portion as-cast and then mock it up on the car and ensure fitment prior to plating.

 

Got a link or a website for that latch?
Thanks.

 

Nice!

 

https://www.amazon.com/Accessbuy-Ad...uPHQnEh2TSu85xCiqr3S-jLAFs2JwXHIaAloFEALw_wcB

Alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-B...&sprefix=lunch+box+latch,aps,121&sr=8-12&th=1

 

Thanks!

 

It was traditional to chrome the axle and paint the rough cast inner parts Red, or Black.

 

Not an exciting or glorious update, but I got the passenger rear quarter area "finished", at least until it goes back on the frame for brake and fuel lines and wiring and interior.


My first time beadrolling, little tough solo, but I'm getting the hang of it.


This will all be seamsealed and undercoated, so no need for anything pretty.


I'm still debating filling that upper hole at the apex of the wheel arch, it's useless, but is totally hidden by the tire.


Lots of room in the pocket for hardlines or wiring looms, not sure where they're going to run until I get the floor finished a little further along.

Hoping to wrap the floor up and get this mess back on the chassis for something actually exciting, I really despise welding on 100 yr old paper thin steel...

 

Working on floor-pans today. Got my sheets cut to size, now just waiting for some help in the shop so I can get them bead-rolled. It's a 2 man job since I'm borrowing a buddy's and it's manually cranked. More pics later today.

 

Love your work, looking good!

Over here we can't chromed axles approved for road use due to hydrogen embrittlement, unless it's proved to be heat treated. Is that a thing over there?

 

No idea on legality of it, but I decided on running a painted axle after all

 

I guess Legality is one thing, but just curious about if hydrogen embrittlement is considered at all & if it actually makes a difference??

 

Interesting reading here: https://www.finishing.com/17/47.shtml
I wonder if the chromed forged axle SoCal Speed shop sells are baked after chrome to 400° F for 2-3hrs? That process can allegedly pull the hydrogen out of the coating and preserve the integrity of the hardened axle.

 

Got the passenger side mostly welded in, doing it all from the bottom to hide the welds, and then I'm going to go on the inside around each rectangular recess with seam sealer to create a leak and rattle free floor. It will be undercoated on the bottom and inside will be treated as if it were a boat, with water resistant coating on the steel, and then rubber-esque mats on the floors.

Also finally found the color I'd been looking for. I was always wanted a Blue, but wanted to avoid the stereotypical Washington and other Darker Blues. Since my build era is 1956, I started looking at my vintage paint books and this one just jumped out at me:


1956 Ford Truck Nocturne Blue Iridescent, Code B. One of Ford's earliest metallics, and just the right shade I was looking for. Going to look great with the Vanilla Cream Firewall and Ruby Red Engine!


So I'll be finishing the floors this week and pushing to get the body back horizontal to finish firewall and then get it back on the chassis. Probably not going to make it to Lonestar Round-up this year, since I'd rather put a weekend in the shop now that I have time and focus.

 

Interesting,

That colour is beautiful, it will really make your phaeton pop! Love your work & the thought put into it.

 

That is a great blue. Wish I could find a period gold that is pure like that and not muddy.

 

You look at the 1956 Desoto Adventurer Gold? It's nice and bright without being dark and boring:

 

Thanks, I ordered a chip chart off eBay to see what it looks like in person.