Technical Hard chop: sitting on the chopping block

This is interesting to watch, thanks for sharing.

 

I’m no metallurgy expert. The last couple 18 gauge panels I bought seems harder to shape.
just whatever cold rolled the steel place has.
The 20 gauge is almost too EZ
We had 19 gauge occasionally in my pro days. Seems to work easier that the 18 I’ve been getting.

 

In the past I think I bought 18 or 19 gauge Aluminum killed steel sheets that were easier to shape? I may have the terminology wrong?

 

You are correct.

 

I am experiencing that, too. Something changed, or age/wear is taking its toll.

AK steel seems easier to form still, but I have to order it.

 

That's probably why Henry used 19 gauge on the body pieces

 

Finished filling the cowl gap

 

Back on the rear window now. I cleaned the cut on the upper half of the window. Used Dykem fluid on the lower half and cleco it together. Scribe the seam and pull it back apart

 

Now Is the perfect time to weld up the roll bar. Would be nearly impossible to get it fully welded before.
I cut the window at the scribe and left a small tab so I can cleco it back together. Carefully align the seam and start tack welding it up.

 

Continuing with the back window. Finished tacking the seam.

 

Next set the back window pitch to 82.2 degrees, same as the B-pillar pitch.

 

Then tack it in to the roof to lock the pitch it. Clean the corner openings so I can scribe them to fit.

 

Some Dykem on the corners so I can see the scribe line. Scribing will be in two steps. If I just hold the corner on the inside to scribe it, it will be the thickest of the 19ga too small. I need to do this in two steps. To be continued…

 

Test fitting the corner back in. I moved it around until it flowed with the top just right. I’m happy with it. I will scribe two edges now. Trim that and put it back in flush to scribe the last edge.

 

It's such a great thread so far. Keep the updates coming, and thank you for all the detailed photos.

 

I scribed a couple alignment marks then removed the corner. Trimmed it with snips and put it back in.

 

The profile is looking really good.

 

And with the roof panel sitting on. Next will be the other corner and the roof.

 

Have you thought at all about leaving the soft insert in place?

 

Looking great!

 

I don’t like the soft insert. They flap in the wind. I thought about using the metal insert and gluing the vinyl to the metal. But I still don’t like the look with the aluminum nail strip. That makes the soft top look like a mattress on the roof.


I’m not welding the steel insert in. It will bolt on the top rolling bones style. I just don’t know if I’m going to flange the roof to make the insert flush or just lay it on top.
But I’m still thinking about wrapping the insert in Mercedes material to keep the look of an original car, but without the tack strip.

 

Really like the way the corners worked out.

 

My old work place made an aluminum roof insert
Removed the tack strip from the roof and fabricated a deeper channel. The roof insert had an aluminum band thick enough to thread. The insert with band was flush mount with the roof and bolted in from inside.
No tack strip
Looked great

 

I cheaped out and used a “Henry Ford Steel” roof insert.

 

Some Mustang guy is gonna be mad at you.

-Abone.

 

Looks like that one rotted up to the windows, thought to restore it.

 

The guy I got the mustang roof from wasn’t too happy when he asked what I was going to do with it. He said “I was hoping you were a mustang guy.”

 

Rustang ....interested to see how you pull off the bolt on top....

 

I used a '65 Mustang Coupe roof top when filling my 3W. I did get some flack but the Mustang was a total and using Ford sheet metal on my Coupe sold the naysayers that it was acceptable. LOL

 

Fantastic work! Thank you for sharing. I've learned lots from Peter Tomasini videos, glad to see his name mentioned on the HAMB