chevy II 153 four cylinder

The 153 block bolt pattern is the same as a small block so what ever will bolt on bell housing wise to the 2 piece main seal SBC will work on the 153. The same goes for flywheels & clutches. The one you have looks like a boat flywheel. Any of the 2 piece main seal flywheels will bolt up. The 153 tooth will work best.

 

Remember that the forward tip of the input shaft will slip inside the pilot bearing or bushing, so some length will be "lost" so to speak.

See here, too: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/picked-up-a-153-chevy.1233704/

 

Understood. This afternoon I had some help so we mocked the transmission and crankshaft with the flywheel in proximity to one another and it looked like it was all within at most 1/8" to 1/4" of leaving enough room for the bellhousing I have that is 6 3/8" thick. I am aware that the bellhousing and crank flange are the same as any 2-piece main seal SBC. I know that some applications of S-10 T5's require cutting a small amount off of the input shaft, so that is possibly part of the solution to fitting things together.

My main question remains as to what combination of flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc will work with the 1" - 14 spline T5 input shaft. So far, the only properly splined clutch disc to match the shaft are small 9 1/8" OD discs, and in my searching I haven't found any pressure plate for a 9 1/8" disc that matches my flywheel bolt circle.

I would change to a larger diameter clutch disc, pressure plate and appropriate flywheel if I had any idea of what car or pickup might have used a 10", 10.5" or whatever diameter clutch with the tiny 1" - 14-spline hub. That seems to be the catch. I found a kit from McLeod that has a bellhousing for a 11" clutch to use with a 168T flywheel for a S-10/V8 swap, but it's over $700.00 !!

As far as my flywheel being from a boat engine, yes it is, but since it has the appearance that it's drilled for a pressure plate my thought is that it was a carry-over from some car application. There is no other reason on the boat application for holes to be where they are, or for it to have what appears to be a recessed area for a clutch disc. The boat drive is a small diameter unit that bolts together along with the crankshaft/flywheel bolts.

Lynn

 

This 10" clutch disc should work with the 14 spline input shaft:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flat...ch-14-Spline-S-10-T-5-Transmission,25137.html

 

What's the deal with all this S-10 five speed talk nowadays?
I've driven a 68 Chevy II/4 cyl/3 speed/column, was so much fun my first thought was a Muncie 4 speed would be so cool in this thing.
It's a bolt in!

 

When I put the 181 Mercruiser engine in my AVATAR I used the same adapters that place a SBC to an early Ford transmission ('39). I kept the stock rear end. Same rear end as a Model A but the spring is behind the axle.

Charlie Stephens

 

In_The_Pink....That might be just what I need along with some readily available 10" pressure plate and 153T flywheel drilled for a 10" clutch. Thanks for finding that and posting the link!

DDDenny....I want the 5-speed overdrive because it will be a really good match for a typical banjo rearend's 3.78 gear ratio. With any 1:1 top gear transmission I'd want to change the rear gear to a 3.29 or 3.54 and that's another $350 or thereabouts, and that clashes with my tightwad nature.

Charlie....I have read posts about your combination and had considered it as well. With what I have in mind I'd do an open driveshaft conversion to my Model A banjo, or try to find a '40-ish banjo that already has hydraulic brakes. I would also do an open drive conversion on it. But, if a nice top shift Ford transmission came along at a reasonable price copying your combination would be a possibility as well. I just think that the looks of a banjo on the backside of a A Tudor sedan would be really nice!

Lynn

 

The 80 MPH or more the interstate is running on the interstate and not getting ran over is why all the S 10 talk and the ratios are better to boot.
A Muncie is $1000 or more for a worn out one then you need linkage that's not cheap any more as well and there likely overkill for a 150 HP 4 cylinder .
A Saginaw is a viable option for much less and easier to find to boot if you want a bolt in 4 speed option .
I'm still sticking a lowly Vega 4speed in if I can't find a good 5 speed .
Saving the Muncie and T10's for stuff with much more HP.

S10 5 speeds are getting tough to find. Been looking .

 

I bought a complete donor S10 pickup at a junkyard for $500. I used the 151 Iron Duke in my Model A coupe without doing anything to the engine other than adapting a two barrel Rochester carburetor instead of EFI. Now I hope to get more value out of it by using the S10 transmission, plus I kept the narrow two-wheel drive S10 rear end and sold the carcass of the truck to a salvage yard so I'm getting a pretty good bang for my buck!

Lynn

 

Still needing advice and info about a clutch disc and pressure plate that might work with my flywheel. See post #659 above with my questions and dimensions of the flywheel that was on my Mercruiser 153. I don't know what automotive parts this flywheel was intended for but it would be nice if I could use it. Since it's drilled for a pressure plate I can't help but think it's an off-the-shelf automotive flywheel.

My machinist friend hopes to have my block and head ready to pick up next week. He's taking .020" off of the block deck to true it up and give compression a bit of help, truing the head surface and replacing the 1.72"/1.5" valves with 1.82"/1.6". Also, I got my mild performance reground cam and re-faced lifters back from Oregon Cam Grinding. From memory I believe the cam is 284 "advertised" duration and .488" lift at the valve. With all of the "marine" cut away and ground off of the boat intake/exhaust and with a small base Rochester 2 Bbl. and a header I'll build, this thing should be a powerhouse!....OK, not that powerful.

Lynn

 

I have the mercruiser 181. I'm trying to find a flexplate that will fit my power glide. It is 153 tooth ,has a 2" center hole, 12.75" diameter. Any help would be appreciated. Tganks

 

If it has the standard Chevy bell housing bolt pattern and two piece rear main seal flywheel, clutch, flex plate and all that stuff are the same as the same vintage small blocks & 194-250 sixes and some 292s. Not the 400 v8. If it has a one piece one piece rear main seal then it is like the later small blocks. Lots of choices.

 

Six Ball, If the engine is a 1 piece seal, the late 350 will fit, (I don't know) but doesn't the late 350 1 piece have a counter weight, that would not work on the 4 cyl. correct? Two of my 181 are one piece rear seals and I have no flywheels for them. When I get around to doing something with them I will be looking for a flywheel too.

 

I picked up Slugs free engine and went through it internally and gave it an early ford style makeover. Next I'm going to build a header and intake. One day I'm going to find a 32-34 pickup or a model a pickup and jam this and a T-5 in it.

After
Before

 

Sure glad to see it going to be used in a hot rod.

 

When you get around to putting it into an early Ford you might consider motor mounts like I used in my AVATAR. I was advised to use the original mounts with the generous amount of rubber due to the vibration of the engine.


If you keep the original K member on your '32 truck consider keeping the original pedals and building a master cylinder mount like on my AVATAR. FYI I used a '39 transmission and kept the original rear end in my AVATAR. I assume you know that Mercruiser made an aluminum sideplate.



Best of luck,

Charlie Stephens