I had been planning on running a set of Edmund heads and intake I sourced when i first started putting this project together, but now thinking I am going to change directions and source a set of the Canadian aluminum heads and intake for this motor and run the Edmunds on another healthier motor I have in the shop at a latter time. Not realizing those Canadian heads are pretty hard to find in good condition. Well long story short I found a set got a great deal upon delivery I realized they were not matching being that one was from a Mercury and one is Ford. This rang some alarms to me being that the Mercury would have a 4" crank and i assume a larger combustion chamber. So I went to the experts on the ford bard to find some answers. Turns out there is a difference, but seems as if its going to be fine because the difference is in the 15 cc realm. I was able to measure the difference my self by turning the heads over and getting them level, inserting a spark plug and filling the chamber with a solvent then sucking it back out via a syringe and the difference was more like 10cc. So my plan is to move forward fingers crossed it will run ok. The heads themselves were dirty and needed a buff so I cleaned them with some mild degreaser and cleaned them with some wheels from PRYME which I cant recommend enough if you are in need of some cleaning and or buffing tools this company is amazing and provide some great items. I do not have a buffer so I converted my craftsman's bench grinder into a buffer. I purchased some arm extensions from PRYME and went to town. I was able to find an intake as well, it had some issues on the back side which look to be some sort of impact issue. I was able to deck it straight.
Added the fuel line in the last couple of nights after work. 5/16 nicopp line, carter inline pump, holley regulator. I used some of the permatex indian head stuff on the threads of the tank out just in case. I used soft lines from the tank to filter/pump/regulator then to hard line to the front. Thinking my regulator being at the start of the fuel run might be an issue, but ill see when its running. I wanted to hide all mentioned items as much as possible. I will need to insert some grommets around holes the lines goes through in the crossmember. I used the Eastwood Flaring tool again, and cant recommend it enough for this kind of work. I am planning on running a single carb with the Canadian intake got, but i will still use the fuel block up front so i can have a fuel presser gauge, mainly just for looks. Next i need to start plugging some of the holes in the firewall while the motor is back out of the car.
Been taking care of last little bits on this car recently. Needed to figure out how to gain access to the master cylinder so I made a very simple plate and used a router to recess the plate to make it sit level. Nothing fancy again, just good old garage built stuff here. I still need to seal the toe board and floor board. The list is getting smaller though.
Last night figured I'd tackle the license plate and nerf/push bar and license plate light. I copied Holly Orel plate holder and nerf bar as best I could. I hate torch cutting and am honestly horrible at it. i spent as much time cleaning up the slag as I would have by just using a cut off wheel alone. My plate light is not Hollywood Brand. Its some other older maker that looks the same but it had this large riser space between the light and the holder so I cut it out and welded it back. All in all came out great.
Lots of updates to the car with little updates here. I was trying to make it to Lone Star Round Up this year, but sadly fell short. I will say this deadline lit the fire though because i got more done in the last three months than I thought possible. I was able to get the motor back in and run electrical and figure out all the small details to take my first little run in the car. Because of this quick last minute sprint my photo coverage was very small. My good friend built me a small 5 circuit panel for the electrical runs. I did use Brillman for all the wiring and used their asphalt loom as well.
I also started playing around with the idea of painting the car with a rough patina style in mind. I basically took Rustoleum dark red flat and strayed the firewall. then took a bit of the green paint i used from the motor let that all dry over night then i used a black spirit wood stain the next morning and it looks ok. you can see it here in this photo prior to the engine going back in. Not sure ill stay with it, but it works for now. Also this is the little panel my buddy mark built.
Next i started tackling the accelerator. I needed a little more space for the spoon so I built a little step, but decided I didn't like the way it looked and scrapped it to just heat and bend the spoon to work. Took alot of adjustments but I made it work.
Next I tackled the floorboard insert to meet the toe and heel boards. I just used a piece of 16 ga flat I made a pattern and had to make the smallest little tunnel to bring the floor up off the Trans. I also went ahead and stained the floor boards as well.
Electrical for this car has been something i have put off till the end. Very lucky i had my buddy mark ford build this little panel. I first just mounted the panel then started running one wire at a time and zip tieing them together. After i ran all of them i cut each tie and added friction tape, then i loomed and made the connections. I was in such a rush in this part i didn't take alot of photos but it came out really well.
I am really enjoying this thread and love the look you are achieving with your car. Keep up the great work you are so close to the finish line.
After I was able to get all the electrical under wraps I was basically at the finish line, or I thought. Once I got the car running again with the aluminum heads and intake I ran into all sorts of issues with fuel leaks, and coolant leaks. Once I got this all under control I took my first ride. Two blocks from the house I noticed lots of white smoke out of the passenger exhaust. I came home and pulled the stick to find coolant in the pan. So either I didnt torque the heads down enough or the gasket broke, or I have a crack somewhere and or the heads are not flat. So I drained all of the oil and coolant and started slowing taking the heads up in torque and when I got to 45 i spun a bolt. It didnt break the bolt but it broke out of the threads. It is one of the head bolt holes I had to drill out cause one of the oringal bolts broke. I might have not tapped it well enough.? Either way I plan on installing a time-sert in that hole. I will go ahead and pull the heads and install new gaskets as well. I was told the aluminum heads should only go to 35 ftlbs, then I was told they should go up to 50. If you have an opinion id love to hear. Here is a vid of the motor after i got it running again, and a photo of the bolt that is turning. Didnt make it to LSRU with the car, but man it was a great year out at the show.
Great thread! Looks and sounds awesome! On torque for heads, I have heard both. When I torqued my alum heads to 50ft/lbs, I cracked one of the heads at the bolt hole (F&%$). I would stick with 35-40 next time.
You look pretty tall in the pic with your head under the dash. What are your plans for seat mounting?
I am 6 feet, I made a seat from a bus frame that I cut down and upholstered. I took about 2" out of the seat riser to allow for my long legs. Its tight but I fit. I came up in Minitrucks in the hobby, so I am very used to tight spots. I have a few photos pages back that you can see the seat installed and mounted.
Zax i just looked back its between the end of page 6 and 7, so you dont have to go through all of my ramblings on this full build.
The Jalopy Journal
