Dropped my trans pan to replace a leaky gasket, so I went ahead and ordered a replacement filter, went with a Wix because I like Wix filters, and ordered part # 58878. The Wix filter doesn’t look anything like the old filter. The old filter was held on by three flat head screws with nuts, and the new one only has two holes. Did they send me the wrong filter? Did I order the wrong filter? Or was the old filter wrong? Here is the old filter compared to the new one.
Do you have an aftermarket deep pan? Most come with an adapter and use a MOPAR trans filter, which is what your original one looks like.
I’ve never pulled a filter with 3 screws or that shape from a TH350. They alway’s look d like your new one.
Actually, the pan is a B & M exactly like the one that Johnny Gee posted. I’m replacing the pan with an aluminum pan from speedway. So now what do I do about the filter?
I guess if you're not going back to a deep pan like the B&M, get rid of the adapter and use your filter now. You can use a Wix 58894 if you want to stick to a dacron filter, cant remember if there's a height difference but its for th350c Found this on the deep pans, thats where your B&M Filter Number came from. 30280.pdf (holley.com)
depends on the pan...if it's stock depth, then use the stock 350 filter (really a screen) that you bought, with a couple real short 1/4-20 screws. If it's a deep pan, and the mopar filter will fit, use that. 58707 wix filter might work.
Thanks guys, the B&M 10288 looks like a match, so if the new pan is about the same depth as the old pan, I guess I’ll get one of those. I’m curious though, why the different filter anyway? I understand the reason for a deeper pan, but why does the deeper pan come with an adapter for a totally different filter? Is it a better filter? Is there a reason to use the B&M style filter, besides me being too lazy to want to take off the adapter to go back to the stock style? This is the new pan I’m replacing the B&M pan with, I “think” it’s also considered a “deep” pan? Haven’t compared the new one to the old one yet. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-TH350-Finned-Aluminum-Transmission-Pan,1933.html
"From TCI: High Flow Filter System for TH350 and Powerglide In racing applications we have found that both the TH350 and Powerglide factory filters are questionable as to whether they can draw sufficient fluid under high rpm racing conditions. To assure a proper fluid supply at all times we have built an adapter kit to install a high flow Chrysler Torqueflite filter in both of these applications. Must be used in conjunction with a cast aluminum deep pan. Kit includes one filter, filter gasket, oil pan gasket, and filter adapter with mounting hardware." Just quoted from a forum. I assume that is the basis for it. Also the Dacron filter media they use filters better than the mesh.
Huh, so it looks like the new aluminum speedway pan is about 7/8” shorter than the B&M steel pan. I wonder if that’s gonna be enough clearance to use the adapter and Chrysler style filter? Wondering if I should just stick with the B&M deep pan. I only bought the aluminum one because the steel pan leaked even after trying to flatten out any dimples around the bolt holes. I just prefer aluminum since it doesn’t warp and doesn’t rust.
I'd use an original steel pan...but it's not my car. If you're going to use the aluminum pan, just use the original type screen, and don't worry about it.
For the hell of it I put the old Chrysler style B&M filter back on and held the new aluminum pan up to the mating surface, and the pan hits the filter and there is like a half inch gap between the pan and trans mating surfaces. So that’s not gonna work. So I grabbed the B&M “deep” steel pan and removed all the old cork gasket material and sealant, and cleaned it up real good. The surface doesn’t look too bad and I’m inclined to use it and send back the cast aluminum Speedway pan, but the steel B&M pan has the stupid raised line in the center on the gasket surface, which I guess probably means I can only use a cork gasket and not the fancy rubber and steel gasket that I had hoped to be able to use. So my options are to use the steel B&M pan that was already on it, replace the filter with the same Chrysler style, and use a cork gasket, or take off the Chrysler filter adapter and put the original style th350 Wix filter and use the new aluminum “shallow” pan with a fancy rubber and steel gasket. I'm so over it at this point, I just want to put this thing back together so I can drive it. Not leaking would be a plus.
Cork gaskets work without sealant...with a reasonably flat surface....I smack the bolt hole area back down, and get the parts clean, and use cork or normal rubber gaskets, and it usually works fine. I bet the fancy gasket would work with that pan, but we can't see the gasket because you didn't post a picture. We also can't see how bad the chrome pan looks on the mating surface. Good luck..
Did the gasket come wadded up in the box or was it packed flat? I've never had any luck with wadded up gasket's. The one's that come packed flat in a big cardboard envelope seem to work the best, regardless of what pan you use.
That filter is just a normal Chrysler 904/727 Dacron filter, used from the 60s through the 80s or so. That filter sucks from both sides and should be about 1/2" from the bottom of the pan. You could shorten the extension to fit the depth of the pan and shorten the screws. Surprised the new pan didn't come with its own type of filter extension. Bill
This is what the flange looks like on the stamped steel B&M pan, see it’s got that raised line going down the middle of the gasket mating surface. So if I reuse this one, given that raised lip, what’s going to be my best bet as far as a gasket goes? Cork or rubber?
We use only cork trans pan gaskets unless no longer available. Straighten pan rails and install dry. No Gook. Bill
I only use rubber. Never understood why people still use cork. I used a rubber gasket on my chrome stamped steel speedway pan without a drip.
Cork is traditional. And for some things, it's best. Some of the new pan gaskets are just plain rubber. Others are rubberized paper or something. They usually all work ok if the pan is flat, clean, and properly tightened.
I've yet to find anything where a cork gasket worked better. Doesn't matter if I installed it or if an old dude that's been using them longer than my dad's been alive installed it. They always leak unless you globber silicone on both sides.....in which case it's no longer actually the cork gasket doing the work. And traditional or not I prefer ease of maintenance.....I personally wouldn't use a cork gasket on a th350 for traditional reasons
On a Mopar 727,,,,,,the rubber gasket is the best way to go . That is the consensus from most professionals . Tommy
Sure, there are crappy gaskets out there and will leak, but most of the leak problems are due to the INSTALLER. Bill
The original old chrome valve covers on the old GM aluminum heads on Plan II needed cork to seal. Rubber would stretch and leak around the bolts. Cork stays put, and seals. But I'm not surprised you haven't encountered this situation.
Almost all trans pan leaks come from not peening the bolt holes back down. Small ballpeen hammer, smack it with a larger hammer to indent the bolt hole so when it is tightened it is flush again. Never had much luck with rubber. Used to do a lot of overhauls from a major oil change franchise that were run low on fluid due to not peening the holes and using a rubber gasket. Always went back with a cork gasket.
The Jalopy Journal
