Featured Hot Rods Top Banana Style Slingshot Dragster- Marty Strode-Chris Kopp.

What about aluminium (Australian spelling) for the injector stacks? Should able to get it in the required thickness (or thinness (if there's such a word).

 

I know how I made the new stacks for my injectors. I'm anxious to see how much easier you're going to make yours. But then I always take the long way around the barn...

 

If your friend is unable to respline your output shaft try Currie. They resplined and shortened a pair of 31 spline axles for me.

 

Marty --
I'll ship the stacks and the bells to you if you want them.
(The injectors and the DeChevy are long gone.)
Stan

 

The steel Hilborn stacks that I've owned were zinc plated, so using the galvanized 0.035" wall stuff would be pretty similar to the originals I had.

 

Man, if Marty documents the body fabrication as well as he has the rest of the build this is going to be epic!

 

Looking awesome Marty! I saw an Algon fuel injection set up for sale recently, I can't remember where though. I have a question, what size rear rim and what size M/T slick do you have there? I like how they are tall and skinny...

 

Sam, the wheels are 15X8-1/2, the tires are 9.0 X 29.5. The tires still have the stickers, but are very old. When I was young and more stupid, I ran 16 year old tires on this one.

 

That will be @chriskopp doing the documenting, as he is doing the body.

 

Graham, galvanizing can look different, depending on the application, and the need to tack weld the small bosses on the bottom, might be difficult. I talked to Nick Smithberg this morning, and have been thinking about shortening mine, by cutting 6" off the top, and welding new bosses on. That way I will have a set of 4" ones as well. I have a .040 tungsten that should work.

 

Jim, how about those Hemi valve covers. Are thestacks the same on the bottom as mine pictured above ?

 

They only have one hold-down screw -- I guess that what's the Enderles had (it was 25 years or so ago). I figured you'd cut off the bells where they join your tops' diameters. Maybe easier than stretching the tubes out.

The valve covers are rare DeSoto ones and the base of the dumbest trade I ever made. I traded them for some nicked-up chrome Chrysler ones that I needed for the Plymouth. Sure had fun fooling a lot of Street Rodders.

 

My Aussie buddy, pronounces it al-u-min-e-um. I am not sure if it would flare well, but maybe.

 

Marty the stacks I had on my afx car are made of aluminum and came with the injector from hilborn however the injector was designed to slip the stacks in the injector and has a Allen bolt that clamps around the stack I would think that if they bolted down like yours does that eventually it would crack and break the mints off

 

I was able to figure out how to machine the spindles, by making a bracket that bolts to the tie rod eye, and to one of the bolts that hold the jaw to the chuck, so since it is between centers, it needed a way to drive the piece. That will happen later. Another decision I made was to use rectangular tube uprights at the motor plate, as it gives me a little latitude on the location of the engine fore and aft, along with a better seal, cockpit to engine. I bought a Rotobroch to fit the uprights, and it got me close, with some grinding.

 

As much as I can 'hear' the hemi pics, I 'felt' that broach from the back of my teeth to my toes!

 

Those are nice cutters, you won't find them at HF!

 

I need to come visit you some day...

 

Any time Sam !

 

That one came from Amazon, works slick !

 

I added a couple more uprights in the cockpit area, and one crossmember ahead of the rear axle. It will serve as the mounting point for the anti-rotation device required on the nose of the rearend. It will also support some aluminum plates for the driver to step on, getting in and out.

 

A step to get into a dragster? Heretic! But u the expert. & at my age need one. (Big smile)

 

I am storing this’56 for a friend, would make great push car, but it’s going on the block later this year.

 

Love 55, 56 fords not so much 57, all rusted away on east coast while everyone saved shoebox Chevy ( love them also). Dad had 56 ranch wagon 3 on tree older brother & I beat on, ate exhaust pipes extra flow from 4 barrel & our driving. Would be great push car.

 

I laid out and drilled the rear end housing brackets last night, and torched the centers out today. I am a little rusty with my home made circle cutter. The brackets needed two different radius, because of placement on the housing. A little bandsaw, belt sander, and a DA to finish them off. Next will be cutting and fitting the corresponding plates that weld to the uprights.

 

This one is exceptional as the I watched the restoration. The floors still have the original shiny green paint, zero rust anywhere. Granada spindles and disc brakes, 312 with T-Bird aluminum valve covers and Mumert intake. A later, full synchro 3 speed on the column, complete La Barron Bonney stock appearing interior.

 

I like big block torque & automatics to tow

 

Pushin' and towin' ain't the same thing.

 

I just wish I could afford it when it goes up for sale. That looks like one sweet ride...

 

Now there's an idea @Dave G in Gansevoort ... fix up your OT Mini to be a push car with a simple swap of somethin' or other. What if we mini-tub it? (No pun intended - well, maybe.)

"Simple," the man says. "Simple! Ha!"