Let talk chop saws and the blades we smoke

I am tired of the abrasive cutting blades for steel in my chop saw. They have too much deflection and when trying to make a 45* angle there is too much room for error. Sloppy joints.

Anyone have a metal blade like the Diablo etc? Are they any better?

 

Use a 6 inch Metabo thin blade, maybe .03, cutoff wheel in your 4 inch grinder. Cuts real fast and without heating the metal.

 

I buy name brand wheels at the big box store and have tried different brands. What I've found is they tend to glaze over and if you dress them with a silicon carbide dressing stick they will work like new again. When they are cutting easier you won't need so much pressure and you will have better results.
Here’s one from Ace Hardware, don’t recall where I got mine but I know they can be had cheaper.

 

I know that the cold saws cut way slower. About 1/3 the speed of an abrasive wheel.

 

The cold saws make more precise cuts but the chips are really nasty. Gotta wear protection.
I rarely use my chop saw anymore. Angle grinder is more handy.

 

I buy the hood chop saw blades at the welding supply store and they cut like butter. Minimal deflection.

 

My brother bought a new Evolution chop saw. I was impressed with the "stock" blade that came with it. Very clean cuts, much nicer than my Milwaukee w the old abrasive blade.

 

That's the one I was looking at.

 

That's true Mark, they are loud. We have one at work that has a liquid cooler that sprays on the parts, but then you have to constantly change the fluid, because it becomes contaminated. I am too lazy for that.

 

Hey, RH;
How or what contaminates the cutting/cooling fluid? Wouldn't a filter take out the metal dust/chips, & other shop dirt? Or does it just go bad somehow from being an organic compound? IDK, which is why I'm asking. I'm guessing everything available, including using nothing, has its' drawbacks...

As for cutters, Bad Dog cutters work well, have a lifetime guarantee, are rather aggressive. I've used the carborundum & black reinforced stuff(both cheap & expensive versions) that burns thru creating copious amounts of dust/filth, carbide-toothed(some very expensive, some cheap) cutters that throw chips everywhere, & then the BD discs. They are mostly solid, w/diamond(I think - or something like it anyways) dust impregnated into/onto the blade outer circumference, & also in patterns on each side of the flats. They say the way the grit is infused onto the discs is what makes the difference. They do burn thru metal, but not like the black discs. & don't get eaten up. But they are aggressive - spun the 4"grinder outta my hands when I didn't have a death-grip on it. Almost ate my leg, jeans stopped it(got woundup into the safety-cover) - thankfully. I've used the 4" as a cutter(on edge) & as a grinder(on the flats), as the discs are designed to do both things. Will cut near anything, but wood - but they have a cutter for that. These are not cheap at all, bought mine at Btt50's last yr, but I don't regret spending the $$$(cough...!). They don't replace every-thing/every-cutter all the time, but durn-near-close. I don't get anything for these comments, & the guy who sold me the stack of different-sized discs wouldn't know me if he saw me(but the wife did get a t-shirt outta the sale... ). So, they are worth your time to investigate/research - you *could do worse*...
FWIW.
Marcus...
Forgot to mention - they're used dry.

 

So, the way ours works, it has a catch pan for the cooling fluid. The chips and all of the pieces end up in there. You have to clean it pretty regularly or it will get stopped up.

 

Hey, RH;
Thanks. Kinda figured that but...
I get the swarf issue, does the coolant go actually go bad? I've heard/read the non-oil stuff does. But no-one ever says why, or what causes it to go bad. Maybe bacteria? IDK.
Marcus...

 

It will go rancid.

 

I dunno. I don't actually work in that area. I have a buddy that does, he was always complaining about it. I'll ask the next time I see him.