ROLL those inner fender lips now........before the paint. You will need ever bit of space to make the tires fit. (I would do the fronts too!) 6sally6
Been a minute. Think all of the photos with X’s hotlinked from my own private hosting got to me. but anyway I got it all buttoned up and primed with PPG 2K epoxy a little 2K urethane satin black on the bottom and front and Carnival red on interior last Fall before the weather turned…. Spent another month in the garage starting to assemble some stuff after that
Why in the hell does no one make quarters for those cars? There is a pile of those cars out there and every one of them needs quarters. Your Facebook guy did a pretty good job, you were lucky to grab a set. Fantastic work on your little car, glad to see you are still making progress. -Abone.
I think a lot of us think the same way. I had heard there was a low volume boutique stamping company in Michigan that was possibly going to start but haven’t been able to find much else out beyond that rumor (which would be awesome but a little too late for me). These hand made panels are close but will take quite a bit of hammer and dolly work before I can skim coat and finish.
Everyone knows that manual transmissions are more fun. I was like a kid in a candy store finally being able to cut this hole after dreaming about it for the last 25 years
Fuel system plumbed and brake system fabricated. After pricing having my original tank cleaned and coated it was more economical to buy a new tank so that is what I did. I chose a new float and pickup with a 3/8 outlet (original was 5/16). Tank was sealed to body with 3M caulk strips. Aeromotive H.O. pump and filters. CPE braided hoses and AN fittings from tank to hard line. Hardline is an Inline Tube (Sterling Heights, MI) 3/8” Stainless piece. brakes are front disc conversion from CSRP and rears are drums. The new parking brake cables are exact reproductions from Inline Tube. They are the only correct length ones on the market and mimic originals eliminating plastic found on other offerings that melt against exhaust. lines are all hand made CuNi. I added a 10# residual valve to the rear lines. One thing I ran into was that my car originally being power brakes had an extras cutout in the firewall because the booster sat lower. Now that the car is manual the master cylinder moves up leaving the extra opening. A bit of time with some dial calipers, modeling in Solidworks and an hour on the 3D printer and I had a block off plate. I recently decided I needed roll control so I do need to plumb that in. Once I get if off of the spit I will do that. But having this thing on the rotisseries sure makes all of tons work so much more enjoyable they lying on my back under this thing.
Spent Friday afternoon getting the little Ford ready for her trip to the Dyno later this week. Since it has been sitting here in the corner for at least 2 years I primed it, checked all of the valve adjustments, put a curve in the MSD, verified timing pointer and TDC aligned and sealed and installed all of the plugs in the manifold since I will only need two this week (and one once in the car). So here ya go, place your best SWAG for what she will make. Deets - 90’s XXX marked 5.0 block. 331 CID (3.25 x 4.030) Piston to deck is right at 0.005” Scat cast crank and I beams - 28 oz (balanced) Power bond SFI damper 10.22:1 Static (mahle flat tops - 6.5 cc) / 8.56:1 dynamic Felpro 9333TP1 head gasket TFS 190 11R cylinder heads (56 cc basic CNC runners) Comp Hyd Roller (cam card attached) - degreed to 106 degree IC. Elgin Hyd rollers - uses original dog bones and spider Comp roller rockers (1.6:1) Edelbrock RPM airgap Pro-Systems 4150 (780) - baseline tune attached Driven 10W30 break in oil will switch to 20W50 VR1 for tuning. MSD has purple bushing, 1 blue, 1 light silver spring installed. no additional porting or matching or cleanup performed. Still up in the air on trying to tune with a spacer(s) will run without water pump or alternator using shop long tube headers and Sunoco 94.
Saw your post on Comet Central..you need to buy a lottery ticket..ya got a glass hood and bumpers locally…unheard of…
Yes - I think it was February when Tim Mills messaged with photos to tell me my hood would done that week. Had been so long I had forgotten about it to be honest. He lives 20 minutes from me so I took a Saturday morning drive and handed him a few C notes and shot the breeze for an hour and checked out his work and upcoming plans. The hood is pretty nice. No complaints about his quality and the price was reasonable for the effort from a one man shop. Then a few weeks back I went to the Monroe, MI swap meet (first swap meet I think I have been to since I was a teenager). 20 minutes in I spotted a set of bumpers - NOS Crites for my 64. @ $200 they were on the way to my truck in a matter of minutes. Incidentally while putting them in my truck I met up with a gentleman from Brooklyn working on a 64 and sold my old fuel tank for almost as much as the bumpers just cost me… Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket! If this 331 stays together and runs like a scalded dog on Friday I just might do that!
I doubt it. Still a lot of work. My near term goal is to get it off of the rotisserie and on the ground or some jack stands. Then get the motor and trans in so I can mock up the clutch linkage, make sure the headers fit, figure out a radiator and fan and validate my driveshaft will work as is and everything clears. Then get moving on straightening the sheet metal out and get it skimmed and faired and blocked and sealed. Then I need to find a booth to do final blocking and sealer ahead of paint… I have maybe one lead locally. beyond that there is a 4 pt cage to weld, paint and install (bolt in), carpet, upholstery to redo, entire car to wire, chrome to refinish, weatherstripping for the whole car… the list never ends… I stopped keeping good track of the $ I have spent because the last time I looked I had spent more on this thing than it cost me to earn my BSME…
65 Mustang Radiator will work..easy drive to NPD for that one, if your headers fit, I’d get em coated and call it good, I have a good place for seat covers in the Northwest that was reasonable and quick
so I have brand new Doug’s Tri-y coated headers. Just want to make sure it all goes together. for radiator I was looking at the ones from NPD and wanted the all in one with the electric fan assembled. I am using a backward inlet / outlet on my motor (still std rotation water pump) and they have plenty for that application. I just need to ensure I have enough room from core support to pump pulley. I think it is going to be close.
Great project I see a couple parts that don’t work together and that’s the 8” and the four speed. I think I’ve broken most every part in the 8” and it was with a 350hp small block and automatic transmission. Lever the less keep up the good work!
Yes yes… I also know those who have the same driveline and they live. But yes I agree and it is what I have at the moment. I have to have something to look forward to working on once this thing is done though. If it hooks with sticky tires when launching at the torque peak I foresee a lot of carnage. Don’t forget the stock driveshaft with 1310 u joints either…
Got Doug’s on my Falcon..they fit…still not a picnic..and I really need to replace my steering box…and the thought of dealing with them again makes me think I’ll leave that job for the next owner haha
I had a set of Hookers that I used forever that my dad bought new in about 1988. They had their share of “clearance” added over the years. They were fun to install. I priced having them jet hot coated and it was more economical to buy new so I sold them a while back. Have a friend with a 64 Caliente with 4 speed and he has Doug’s and they seem not so bad so that is what I went with.
Considering I want to run slicks if I take it to Milan, etc I figured now is as good a time as any to make a driveshaft loop. The tunnel on these cars is kinda small. I started with a competition engineering “kit” and ended up just using the bottom piece and fabricating the U from 1/4 x 2 strip. Not sure how I like it as it will hang down a bit. The thought was I can add a middle piece in the U later to more contain the loop once I have drivetrain installed and then below I can pass the parking brake cables through. I still need to put some panel nuts in the sub frame connectors to bolt it in.
Got the little Windsor loaded on the dyno today and everything leak checked and initially adjusted. Was impressed - hit the button and she came right to life… testing begins 1000 hours tomorrow.
Could be, my 292” 289 made 445tq/455hp with roughly the same cam only a solid but it has a few other tricks helping it out.
The Jalopy Journal
