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Back by popular demand! 55 chevy 2-door CONVERSION MANUAL!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CSU55Chevy, Dec 14, 2007.

  1. CSU55Chevy
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 78

    CSU55Chevy
    Member
    from Olathe, CO

    Hey guys, i have recently had an overwhelming amount of interest in my 55 Chevy 2-door conversion manual. All attempts to send this beast out through email have came up empty, as the file is just too big. So, i guess the next best thing would to write the manual here in all its glory (most of which is copied and pasted from the document)... So, here she is.... and stay tuned in the next few weeks for even more details about this project.

    About the Manual​

    This is a manual that has been created “from scratch” by the author. It does not attempt to improve an existing manual, or explain a process that has done before. It was created as the procedure was being performed.
    This manual is intended to instruct a 1955-1957 Chevy four door sedan owner how to convert his or her vehicle to a two door sedan. This manual also attempts to instruct the owner how to perform the conversion under a budget price of $750.00.
    The target audience for the manual is; 1955-1957 Chevy four door sedan owners who wish to convert their cars to a two door sedan. Also, as stated before, the process is performed on a budget, and therefore, this manual addresses an audience that is interested in a cost effective conversion.



    According to the Fall 06’ issue of “Old Cars Price Guide” a 1955-1957 Chevy two door sedan is worth roughly 15% more than a four door sedan of the same year and condition. Also, many enthusiasts prefer the two doors for its cleaner look and “sporty charisma.” Additionally, as these cars are now 50+ years old, finding a rust-free two door sedans is becoming more difficult, while “solid” four door sedans are still plentiful, and usually cheaper.
    Chevrolet produced all 1955-1957 sedans with identical wheelbases, rooflines, height, and width. This allows a four door to be converted to a two door and not exhibit any outstanding differences between it and an authentic two door sedan.
    The procedure performed in this manual is a large departure from another way of converting a four door to a two door. The alternative method involves many aftermarket parts, more modification, and a target price of around $2000.00. Considering the cost of a four door sedan versus a two door sedan, this extra $2000 can make a “converted four door” even more expensive than an authentic two door in similar condition.

    Tools and Skills Needed​

    In order to perform this conversion in an efficient and safe manner, a certain set of tools and skills are required;
    Tools:
    <!--[if !supportLists]-->·A welder, preferably a MIG (Metal Inert Gas) or TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welder. Either type is sufficient. Welding helmet.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Portable Bandsaw (or hacksaw).
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Basic hand tools for disassembly.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Angle Grinder with both a grinding wheel and cut-off wheel.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Electric Metal Shear.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Reciprocating Saw (AKA &#8220;Sawsall&#8221;).
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Tape Measure.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Magnetic Welding Squares.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Body Hammer and Dollies
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Small Pry Bar (AKA &#8220;Cats Paw&#8221;)
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Drill motor, a set of drill bits, and a Phillips screw head bit.
    <o></o>
    Skills:
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Adequate welding ability.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Ability to operate the tools above.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Ability to perform basic metal shaping and cutting techniques.
    <o>
    </o><!--[endif]-->
    Materials and Time Needed​
    <o></o>
    In order to perform this conversion, a set of parts and materials will be needed;
    Original Chevy Parts:
    <!--[if !supportLists]-->·A 1955-1957 Chevy four door sedan.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·A set of 1955-1957 Chevy &#8220;two door sedan&#8221; doors.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·A full (all four) set of 1955-1957 Chevy &#8220;four door sedan&#8221; doors. (these will most likely come with the car)
    <o></o>
    Generic &#8220;Consumable Material&#8221;:
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Welding Supplies. Depending on type of welder this will include welding wire, filler rod, and flux gas.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Grinding and cut-off wheels for angle grinder.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·A small amount of 16-18 gauge, non-galvanized, sheet metal. 2x2 feet.
    <o></o>
    Depending on the individual, this conversion may require a good deal of time. For someone qualified for the job but with little experience or expertise, this conversion will take approximately 18-20 work hours per side, for a rough total of 40 work hours to complete. For a professional body man or woman with substantial experience, this conversion may take roughly 25-30 work hours to fully complete. However, one thing is for certain, &#8220;rushed work&#8221; will result in a poor and potentially unsafe two door conversion.
    <o></o>
    <!--[endif]-->
    Cost Involved​

    The cost to acquire the materials required in this conversion may vary. Obviously, the cost of the car itself will not be addressed, as that varies greatly from owner to owner. A basic estimation of the cost for parts and &#8220;consumables&#8221; is;
    <!--[if !supportLists]-->·A set of 1955-1957 Chevy &#8220;two door sedan&#8221; doors ~ $350-$500
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Welding Supplies ~ $25-$50
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Grinding and Cut-off wheels ~ $15-$30
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Sheet Metal ~$15-$30
    <o></o>
    This presents a total budget of $600-$800 if performed by the owner, or labor is not calculated.
    <o>
    </o><!--[endif]-->
    Safety​


    While performing the tasks outlined in this manual, many potential hazards can arise. To ensure a safe conversion, follow these guidelines and recommendations;
    Safety:
    <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Follow all safety requirements that accompany each tool, especially power tools. These guidelines can be found in the tool&#8217;s &#8220;owners manual.&#8221;
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Be sure to protect yourself from heat, sparks, and sharp edges that some tools can produce. Wearing a face shield, work gloves, and a long sleeved shirt is highly recommended. While the sparks produced by the welder and grinder are not necessarily hazardous to your health, they can ruin your day if they land in your eye.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Clear the work area of any flammable materials, i.e. carpet, upholstery, sound deadening material, and rags.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Be aware of your fatigue. If you start feeling tired, sore, or uncomfortable from any activities, STOP! Carelessness and distraction cause accidents.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Most importantly, use caution, work methodically, and be careful.
    <o></o>
    <!--[endif]-->
    Preliminary Outline​
    <o>
    </o>​
    Before jumping into the procedure aspect of the manual, it&#8217;s important to know the basic steps that are about to be performed. These include;
    <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Removing all four original doors from the car.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Cutting out B-pillar.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Cutting our C-pillar.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Cutting latch panel off the &#8220;4-door&#8221; and &#8220;2-door&#8221; front doors.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Weld the &#8220;4-door&#8221; latch panel to &#8220;2-door&#8221; door.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Bolt the &#8220;2-door&#8221; onto car.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Align b-pillar and weld into place.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·De-skin rear door.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Shorten door skin and weld between b-pillar and &#8220;rear door latch jamb.&#8221;
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Shorten rear door upper window frame and weld to car.
    <!--[endif]--> <!--[if !supportLists]-->·Trim and weld inner door panel adjacent to door skin.
    <o></o>
    Note: It is important to distinguish the different models of the 1955-1957 Chevys. The Hardtop model has many differences and does not apply to this manual. This manual addresses sedans (AKA &#8220;Post Cars&#8221;) only. Be sure you are working with a sedan.
    <o>
    </o><!--[endif]-->
    Procedure​


    Step 1:
    Remove all 4 doors. This will require the use of a ratchet and 9/16&#8221; socket. Do not remove the front door hinges from the car. Rather, simply remove the front door from the hinge. However, the rear hinges and rear door need to be removed.


    Step 2:
    Cut out B-pillar. Using the angle grinder fitted with a cut-off wheel, cut along the lines highlighted in figure 2. This is accomplished by locating the spot-welds that attach the B-pillar to the rocker panel at the bottom, and roof at the top, then cutting just above them. Spot welds can be located by finding a small ¼ inch sized round depression in the metal. Also, these spot welds can be drilled out in order to separate the B-pillar, but I have found that cutting just above them is faster.


    Step 3:
    Cut out C-pillar. Using the portable band saw or hack saw, simple cut the C-pillar out. Follow the body lines of the window frame to guide your cut path. The goal here is to make it look as is the C-pillar was never there. Some additional grinding may be needed to completely remove all remnants of the C-pillar.
    Note, directly underneath the B-pillar, on the rocker panel, you will find a "hump" which must be "laid down" in order to allow proper fitment of sill plates.


    Step 4:
    Weld &#8220;4-door&#8221; latch panel to &#8220;2-door&#8221;. This step is one of the more &#8220;skill-extensive&#8221; of the procedure. In order for the &#8220;2-door&#8221; door to latch correctly onto the four-door B-pillar, it must have the same latch panel profile as the &#8220;4-door&#8221; door. In the photos below, take note of the &#8220;ridge&#8221; that runs vertically on the latch panel on both doors. This may seem minuscule, but it keeps a &#8220;2-door&#8221; door from shutting on the &#8220;4-door&#8221; B-pillar.


    Note: the door skin flange, seen wrinkled up at the edge of the door in figure 7 was simply pried back using the &#8220;cats paw.&#8221; This allows the latch panel to be removed. Also, sometimes there can be a few spot welds on this flange, and they will need to be drilled out.

    Next, weld the &#8220;4-door&#8221; latch panel into &#8220;2-door&#8221; door. Be sure to make note of fitment, as it&#8217;s important to position the latch panel as close to the same orientation of the original as possible.
    Step 5:
    Bolt modified &#8220;2-door&#8221; door to car. This is the reverse procedure of removing the front &#8220;4-door&#8221; doors.


    Step 6:
    Align B-pillar against door and weld to rocker and roof. With the door in its closed position, place the B-pillar against the door. Allow for roughly ¼ inch gap between the latch panel and b-pillar. Check that the actual latch lines up nicely with the striker panel on the B-pillar. Check, double check, and triple check latch fitment before welding the B-pillar in place.

    55 build 005.jpg 55 build 008.jpg

    55 build 012.jpg 55 build 013.jpg 55 build 017 edited.jpg

    100_0722.jpg 100_0726.jpg 100_0728.jpg

    100_0731.jpg 100_0736.jpg 100_0744.jpg

    100_0745.jpg 100_0754.jpg 100_0778.jpg

    Picture 006.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2009
  2. CSU55Chevy
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 78

    CSU55Chevy
    Member
    from Olathe, CO

    Step 7:
    De-skin rear door. Since we have moved the B-pillar rearward roughly six inches, the rear door is now too big to be bolted onto the car. To &#8220;recreate&#8221; the rest of the quarter panel and fill the space between the B-pillar and rear door jamb, we must use parts of the rear door. To de-skin the rear door, simply grind the edge of the door down (all the way around the door, until the inner door panel separates from the door skin. Also, in this step, cut the window frame off the door. Take the front vertical &#8220;post&#8221; that lies next to the B-pillar and cut it loose from the upper horizontal frame piece. Shorten the vertical window frame piece enough to where it can be welded in its original location between the B-pillar and where the C-pillar used to be.



    Step 8:
    Lay door skin in place a mark (with a sharpie marker) the rear edge of the front door on the rear door skin. Trim the skin along this line using the electric metal shears. Trim the skin about ¼ to the rearward side of this line to establish a door gap. Replace skin back onto car and weld to rear quarter panel, B-pillar, rocker panel, and window frame. Be sure to &#8220;jump around&#8221; when welding so you don&#8217;t put too much heat into one area and warp the skin.





    Step 9:
    Weld upper portion of rear inner door panel to the interior side of the &#8220;newly created&#8221; quarter panel. This make for a more &#8220;factory&#8221; look from the inside. It also allow for glass to be mounted. Using the electric metal shears, cut out a portion of rear inner door panel to a size that fits between the B-pillar and rear door jamb. The unfinished lower portion of this inner door panel is constructed from the 16-18 gauge sheet metal. Simply cut the sheet metal to the shape of the opening and weld in.



    Step 10:
    Repeat on other side of vehicle. And do a whole lot of finish work.....

    Considerations​

    Keep in mind, due to imperfections in the manufacturing process, not all candidate cars will be identical. Some measurements may differ. Also, there is a substantial amount of &#8220;finish work&#8221; that needs to be done before this car is complete. Things such as body filler and paint. Installation of glass, window tracks, door handles, interior upholstery, etc. Instruction on how to do these tasks can be found in many automotive manuals.

    Also, an issue of registering these cars may become a problem. The title will continue to identify the car as a &#8220;four door sedan&#8221; yet it will be visually identical to a &#8220;two door sedan.&#8221; Be sure to document this change and be prepared to notify certain authorities, i.e. District of Motor Vehicles and Insurance Companies, of the modification.

    Good luck and happy Hot Rodding!
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2009
    Tall t 26 and Nailhead A-V8 like this.
  3. CSU55Chevy
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 78

    CSU55Chevy
    Member
    from Olathe, CO

  4. Shane T.
    Joined: Jun 21, 2005
    Posts: 908

    Shane T.
    Member

    Damn A+++++ For effort and documentaion. I wouldn't do it , but it looks do-able none the less.
     

  5. CSU55Chevy
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 78

    CSU55Chevy
    Member
    from Olathe, CO

    And i know the rear door window frame wasnt really covered, but when i make it back home I will take some more pictures and explain what i did (i did this conversion 6 months ago, and i live 400 miles away from the car). And if there is anything else that yall need covered a bit more in depth, just ask, i will "post up!"
     
  6. So-cal Tex
    Joined: Aug 24, 2005
    Posts: 1,384

    So-cal Tex
    Member

    Tanner, this is great you posted the indepth instructions on the conversion.

    My old heap will get this treatment soon.

    One more 4-door will live as a Two door in Colorado!



    Tex
     

    Attached Files:

  7. great , A+ as well ..
     
  8. JD's 32
    Joined: Dec 30, 2005
    Posts: 873

    JD's 32
    Member
    from TX

    Man that is outstanding! Thanks.
     
  9. This should really be in the tech archives. Clear instructions and photos make this an awesome tech piece.
    Darren
     
  10. Sawracer
    Joined: Jul 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,315

    Sawracer
    Member
    from socal

    Nice work, You make it look easy.
     
  11. 40Standard
    Joined: Jul 30, 2005
    Posts: 5,963

    40Standard
    Member
    from Indy

    makes me want to buy a 4 dr
     
  12. eric
    Joined: Jun 4, 2001
    Posts: 1,643

    eric
    Member

    thanks dude, your work and documentation are much appreciated!!!!
     
  13. Considering the difference in price between four doors and two doors... this is something great.

    Sam.
     
  14. Now there is no excuse to drive around in Grandma's four door.
     
  15. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,847

    butch27
    Member

    On another post they ask if 4 doors are IN right now . I still think 2 doors are just better looking . Great job!
     
    Old School 39 likes this.
  16. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,771

    JOECOOL
    Member

    I have been talking to a guy with a fairly nice 4 door 57 Pontiac, I wonder if Chebby doors would work?
    Thanks for the tech, the only thing I would question is the %15 difference in price,my thought would be a four door would be %50 lower in value.
     
  17. Louie S.
    Joined: Apr 18, 2007
    Posts: 644

    Louie S.
    Member

    Nice work, great post.
     
  18. hotrodsneverdie
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 754

    hotrodsneverdie
    Member

    I agree man. This is awsome. Why spend ten times the money on a 2 door when you can do this? Thanks!
     
  19. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,013

    belair
    Member

    I am certain the Poncho doors will interchange.
     
  20. T-Bone
    Joined: Mar 17, 2001
    Posts: 359

    T-Bone
    Member

    Are the sedan doors interchangable from 55 to 57?
     
  21. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,873

    henry29
    Member

    Yes
     
  22. chevyshubox
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 62

    chevyshubox
    Member
    from Australia

    Hey any updates on this conversion yet.
     
  23. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 2,139

    chopped
    Member

    I wish you guys would stop posting this stuff. Every time you do I start looking at four doors. Sometime I won't be able to stop myself.
     
  24. 2Loose
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 405

    2Loose
    Member

    Well, I found a good deal on one:
    [​IMG]
    Not sure if I really have the time right now to take on a project like that. It would be fun to do though, I like doing that kind of work, it's just a time factor. I now own the car, it's an all original six/three speed, and it runs pretty good as is, needs new tires, new gas tank and brake rebuild, after that......
    Willy
     
  25. chevyshubox
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 62

    chevyshubox
    Member
    from Australia

  26. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,390

    Squablow
    Member

    The manual is really well written, explains everything clearly. I didn't realize that the jamb area of the 4 door was different than the 2 door jamb.

    If your included pictures were a little smaller, it'd be easier to read since you wouldn't have to scroll across the bottom for each line.

    Can we assume you got an A for this paper?
     
  27. b52
    Joined: Dec 1, 2008
    Posts: 7

    b52
    Member
    from Detroit

    I bought a '57 4 door for next to nothing (very solid) from someone who is laid off and needed the cash. I bought it specifically to try this conversion. Why wouldn't you make it a hardtop if you have everything cut loose already ? What are the structural concerns ? And instead of welding the latch panel from the 4 door in, wouldn't it be easier to relocate the latch on the B pillar ? Am I overlooking something ? The format, explanation, and pictures are fantastic in this post. Very nice.
     
  28. MAn I new I seen this I have a 55 ford have you heard of anyone doing this to a ford it seems about the same! I am just getting back on this project and have doors from a 2dr. did you just put solid glass in rear window opening or do they wind down sorry if I dont make sense just really jacked up about getting on this project again
     
    crashfarmer likes this.
  29. Herdez
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 357

    Herdez
    Member

    Best Ive seen yet. makes me want to go get my 4 door parts car and keep it!
     
  30. I'm not going to go into the great details, but I did see where a guy converted his 2-door post '56 to a hardtop using a roof and upper quarter panel swap, as well as swapping doors. The entire roof with the rear package tray and about half of the upper quarters from the C-post forward, was cut off the rusty donor as one big piece.

    I don't know why you couldn't do the same with a 4-door as the base, except of course the quarters will have to be done differently. Which, if you have access to a donor car, just take the entire quarters and inner quarters off it, that way you get the window guts and so on with it too.

    For the guy who asked, depending on the body style of the Pontiac you can make the Chevy doors work. I'm not sure the longer wheelbase cars share the doors, but the smaller ones (Chieftain) will.
     

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