Ok, trying again. Anyone ever have this happen to a stock A transmission? I believe what initiated this failure was when I accidentally hit the gearshift into 2nd while parking. Plus the 15 mile drive home. I have a transmission lined up for rebuild and installation. Not sure if I should go with a rebuilt original or some sort of upgrade (not sure if I want to go into the effort of trying to find an open drive rear/mounting new pedals of a different tranny)
Strangely enough it doesn't appear as if any of the gears broke (I haven't checked the rear of the cluster gear yet). My first guess is that a tooth (or a big chunk) of second gear in the main cluser was removed, got stuck at some point in one of the teeth in the cluster putting stress on the front shaft bushing/bearing area, starting a crack. A little driving and the crack propogated through the drain hole causing fluid to leak out. I'm not sure if it was the lack of lube or the fact that the front of the shaft was no longer supported, but the needle bearings failed and got chunked up. I'll know for sure by Thursday when I get the thing out of there, maybe sooner. I have a feeling there were some hairline cracks in the tranny casing already and I just helped finish the job. (It's possible that the clunk when I popped 2nd gear started the crack in the casing, and that the casing is the only thing that failed). I only go the car back in October so I have no idea what the p/o did with it. I do know that the way the body was mounted, the pedal could not engage the clutch at all when I got the car so anything could be possible.
Here's another view for your perusal. I keep telling him the holes will make the tranny run much cooler.
I either hit that sucker juuuust right, or she had been clunked/grinded into gear many a time previous(by someone who doesn't double clutch) which fatigued the case. When I tapped the gearshift into 2nd while grabbing the hand brake she did make one LOUD bang.
I got the kit from indiana, installed a T-5 and he gives you everthing but he trany. Your pedals stay where they are cause you use the original bell housing. And fifth gear is a real nice thing, you can really cruse. Ice man
With the T5, I assume you had to convert to open drive, what did you use with it? Who makes the kit? could you post a link? Edit: Just thought for a moment on what would be required to change from closed drive. She still has mech brakes so I'd have to change over to hydraulics if I went with a different rear
There is currently a large thread going on with one of our guys making an adaptor to mate a 4x4 T-5 minus the transfer case to the torque tube. Very nice stuff and the only thing that changes is the tranny. I also have the adaptor plate from the guy in Indiana - significant fab work required to go to open drive.
He goes by the name of Auto Restorations, 8150 S Cr 1250, W Albany, In 47320 Ph 765-789-4037 He's old fashioned, NO Email. But I bought the kit, It has ever thing you need to install the trany. You need to dismantle the rear end, for the open drive line, mine was bad any way. I installed Hi gears, would run 70 with no strain. The rear end is not a problem, Ive done at least 12 in my time and I can run you through it. The man who (showed me) how was an old Ford machanic and he had a trick. it works like magic, well almost. Only thing about the kit, he sends a clutch with it (do not use it, its a drag clutch and its eather in or out) no slip and it will shake your teeth out. I took mine back out and took it to Tampa Cutch and he took out the center and installed it in a new A clutch. That fixed it. NO more double clutching, and it was definatly worth doing. Mine is apart now cause I'm doing some engine work, (full pressure B) I may be selling it with the trany depending on the latest engine swap that just came up. Ice man
I think I'd take the opportunity to upgrade to a synchronized 39 three-speed. It's a pretty easy swap and uses the stock torque tube. All you need is a wishbown bracket, and a new bellhouse and pedal mount. ACR sells all the parts: http://www.partsformodelafords.com/store/category.cfm?Category=27 If you decide to go that route, I have one of their pedal brackets for using the stock Model A pedals with the new transmission. I ended up putting in a flathead in my coupe and didn't use it. I'll make you a heck of a deal
Fixed with stock components, I refreshed a transmission I had lying around. New sealed ball bearings, new roller bearings, new pilot bearing to replace seized one, new throwout bearing to replace bad one, new pressure plate to replace worn out one, new clutch to replace SOLID(no springs) truck clutch plate. since I had the rear axle out, removed 3 leaf springs to reduce the total number in the rear to 7. replaced the RIVETED u-joint (which was missing a rivet I might add) with a "standard" A u-joint in good condition. This chassis used to be a truck, and based on the story by the p/o, probably an old farm truck. Reason for failure? Lack of maintenance and my inability to pick out problems/symptoms due to me being a novice at Model As. bearing failure and what was probably already a hairline crack in the transmission when I got it, and a tooth missing from first gear(which I might have broken off after the casing cracked in 2). The leak that I thought was from the rear main was most likely from the front of the transmission(since she doesn't seem to leak as much anymore). Here is an "after" picture.
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