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#601 |
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FNG
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Humansville Mo
Posts: 39
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I would go to at least half of your cubic inces of the engine for the plenum and make sure there is no V in the bottom below the level of the intake runners because fuel will puddle there at idle and flood out the engine when you hit the trottle on take off. Lengthing the runners is a good idea, I asked a guy who builds sheetmetal intakes and he said 13 inches from bottom of valve to bottom of carb is good for 4500 to 6500. Make it longer and the power comes in at lower rpm. My intake is built on that principle and it is like you hit the nitrous button at 3500 rpm.
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#602 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: st.zotique,quebec canada
Posts: 909
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what OLD JIMMY SIX said and on the intakes I built they had 1/2" radius entry.length is measured from the valve which includes the port in the head
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#603 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 775
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Bob, Thanks for posting the intake picture. (Old Jimmy Six) had passed that same information on to me a few weeks ago. I can see from your photo that the changes you are talking about would really improve your overall intake system. The headers look real nice and should make a big difference in performance. You may have to add a third carb to the setup.
Looks like 12.50's in the future.
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Build It - Race It - Have Fun ![]() "I'd Rather Be Racing" |
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#604 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Stillwater,MN
Posts: 1,626
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![]() I've been digesting all the intake information provided by you experienced racer/builders and comparing it to what I have now. Still weighing some alternatives. I took the intake/exhaust contraption to Jerry the Sandblaster today so it will be clean & easy to modify. Also cut these power rings out of 3/8" flat stock with hole saws. How they fit the program will be shown later. But the most important thing I did today was vote for Toymaker's Evil Twin. Last edited by bobw; 01-02-2012 at 07:14 PM. |
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#605 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Stillwater,MN
Posts: 1,626
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![]() Got the doors back today for my '40 Plymouth Pickup which will be used to tow the dragster. That's real paint applied by a real sign painter. |
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#606 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: so cal
Posts: 2,646
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Cool! Now all you need is a sponsorship from a local gas station or speed shop.
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Living the dreams of a points & condenser world. HA/GR build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=189651 Life is good on the lunatic fringe, Tom |
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#607 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: LaMirada Cal.
Posts: 796
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Bob,, I love your header concept.. I bet that will make that slant sound pretty darn cool..Never did like the straight pipe look. Pipes need kinks in them..LOL..
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#608 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: so cal
Posts: 2,646
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Quote:
__________________
Living the dreams of a points & condenser world. HA/GR build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=189651 Life is good on the lunatic fringe, Tom |
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#609 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 775
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Bob the doors look great, can't weight to see them on the truck. I agree with Tom on the sponsor. Old local gas station or local speed shop, maybe on some half high wood bed side boards.
![]() Looking forward to were you are going with the intake modifications. You may need to run three 2bl carbs to keep up with the intake & exhaust changes. ![]() This spring will be fun going to race or T&T with the truck/trailer/race car. Will get some good thumbs up on the freeway.
__________________
Build It - Race It - Have Fun ![]() "I'd Rather Be Racing" |
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#610 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: broken arrow, Ok.
Posts: 405
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You know that we will want pictures of it all hooked together.
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#611 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: B.A. OK
Posts: 467
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Here is a pic of the headers the Senile Old Men built for thier Slant 6.
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#612 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Stillwater,MN
Posts: 1,626
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![]() O/T, I know. Didn't want you all to think I have been slacking. Just finished all the welding on the chassis for my street/drag/autocross Fiat. 187 pieces welded together. Some are even in the correct location. Yes, sure would be nice to have a real sponsor or two. They wouldn't get much for their money though. I've offered free space on my dragster and got turned down! Yes, those senile old men do nice work. This senile old man working alone can't compete. Hope to see that car in person some day. |
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#613 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: gold coast australia
Posts: 341
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Hey Bob, had the pleasure of meeting those guys in person last August, there car is a true work of art, everywhere you look there is true talent showing through. I guess that comes from their shared lifetime of expeience. Nigel.
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I'm sure this OHV thing is just a passing phase |
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#614 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: tulsa
Posts: 551
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hey bob one guy working by himself doing all that cutting fitting and welding has got to be perrty slick. looks perrty slick to me . haveyou ever set down and figured out how many lineal feet of welding that is ,probly scare you to death looks good bud
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#615 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Stillwater,MN
Posts: 1,626
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![]() I cut those 3/8" thick rings, shown above, in half and welded them to the intake runners at the plenum wall. |
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#616 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Stillwater,MN
Posts: 1,626
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![]() Doing that provided enough "meat" so I can radius the inlet from the plenum to the runner. Should give the air/fuel mixture a smoother path to the engine. Experts, is that enough radius on the left port? Mudflap261, Got at least one spool of MIG wire in the Fiat project. |
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#617 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 775
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Now we see what those rings were cut for. Nice idea and the radius looks real clean. Not being a builder
I would have no idea if the radius is correct, but it would be fine if I was doing it.Bob is the air box around half the cu in size of the motor or will you have to add a spacer to the top rail? Really looking forward to seeing the truck/trailer/race car hooked up. I know that is something you will be proud to be cruising down the road.
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Build It - Race It - Have Fun ![]() "I'd Rather Be Racing" |
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#618 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Stillwater,MN
Posts: 1,626
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You're right Tom, I need a spacer. Only about 1/4" to achieve the correct volume. Might go a little thicker if it won't hurt.
Been watching Eagle Field races thanks to your kindness, sending the DVD for free. Thankyou. Lots of great HA/GR runs on there. A good motivator. Yeah, I'm pretty stoked about having the truck, trailer & dragster together. Only problem is the owner/driver is about 5 decades too old. |
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#619 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 775
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Bob, I think this is one of those places were "bigger" is not "better", but I am not sure.
Glad you like the vidio, pass it around to some of your street rod friends. At our age we are just glad to be up and moving each day, someone's got to keep cars of the "past" in the forefront of the sport.
__________________
Build It - Race It - Have Fun ![]() "I'd Rather Be Racing" |
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#620 |
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FNG
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Humansville Mo
Posts: 39
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Bob, you can use epoxy or that old favorite JB Weld to create a smooth transition from the floor to the ports. Your idea is great to give you some meat to work with.
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