HA/GR in Minnesota

[jeff/21]

looking good you could epoxy a piece of hard wood in the vee for a smoother transition and not have low spots between the runners where fuel can puddle. i use dupont epoxy it's two parts mix like JB weld but comes in bigger containers. i would have never though of doing it your way, good thinking

[bobw]

Got the port blending finished in the plemum. Filled the "V" portion of the plemum with epoxy which should eliminate fuel pooling and provide a better path to the intake tubes for the air/fuel mixture.
Made half inch thick spacer rails out of aluminum to increase plenum volume to half the engine displacement.

[bobw]

The header is painted silver but looks grey. Will try a different brand of paint tomorrow. Picked up some 2 1/2" tube today to make collector extensions.

[Old28]

Looking real nice Bob. Your intake and exhaust modifications are turning out great. Thanks for the pictures to help builders like myself see a few ways to make these changes.

Sure you want to stay with two carbs? Maybe 3 or 4.

[bobw]

Added extensions to the collectors for a total length of 18". Everything is complete on the intake/exhaust except for putting kits in the 2 Carter BBD 2 barrels. I think 2 carbs is sufficient as my engne is quite mild and Mopar 318 V8's use one of these carbs. Three carbs would be nice for fuel distribution but I'm assuming much harder to syncronize.

I neglected to thank everyone that offered guidance in redesigning and building the intake/exhaust. Only shortcoming is the intake runners are about an inch short of the suggested length.

Now, on to the (automatic) transmission. More help requested...do I need a manual valve body or just a shift kit? How much stall in the converter? Is it ok to simply wire the kickdown lever full open?

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by bobw

Added extensions to the collectors for a total length of 18". Everything is complete on the intake/exhaust except for putting kits in the 2 Carter BBD 2 barrels. I think 2 carbs is sufficient as my engne is quite mild and Mopar 318 V8's use one of these carbs. Three carbs would be nice for fuel distribution but I'm assuming much harder to syncronize.

Don't worry about synchronizing the carbs...Just set the linkage so they are all at the stops together, they're going to be wide open most of the time.

[Old Jimmy Six]

After all the changes you have made I thought your first pass would probably look like this.

[Old28]

Bob, you are like the rest of use drag racers. You always need to go quicker and faster.

The modifications should make a big improvement to performance Will we see some mid 12's this summer.

Keep up the great work and remember "lots of pictures" always.

[bobw]

Been kinda slow on the HA/GR forum so I thought I'd throw an "art shot" out there. I discovered my camera has a Black & White mode. Tried to make this disassembly pic look like it was happening in the mid-50's.

Old Jimmy Six, the only way I'll come off the line sideways is if I line up sideways. My goal is to be faster than my tow vehicle!

64Dodge440, You're right, it will be either fast idle or full throttle. Not too much syncronizing to worry about.

[bobw]

Since I started revamping the dragster early this winter it seems that all I do is add more weight. Weight reduction was one of the goals and I'm going backward.
Changing from individual pipes to headers & adding collectors. Cutting down the seat caused me to add a crossmember for attachment of the seat back. That change forced the relocation of the battery down and rearward. It now is partially off the back of the chassis so I added a "push bar" to protect it a bit.

I've heard that "ventillating" the frame, front axle and wishbones only cuts a pound or two.

Do any of you run one of those small light weight batteries? With no alternator I'm kinda skeptical one would stay strong for a whole day of racing.

[Artfrombama]

Originally Posted by bobw

Do any of you run one of those small light weight batteries? With no alternator I'm kinda skeptical one would stay strong for a whole day of racing.

I have an Odyssey PC680T in my non Hamb racer. Works great. Last one held out 5 years. Plenty of juice!

Sealed, nothing to leak out, can mount in any position.

If you were to use one for a whole day of racing I would start the car from another battery or bring along a charger.

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by bobw

Since I started revamping the dragster early this winter it seems that all I do is add more weight. Weight reduction was one of the goals and I'm going backward.
Changing from individual pipes to headers & adding collectors. Cutting down the seat caused me to add a crossmember for attachment of the seat back. That change forced the relocation of the battery down and rearward. It now is partially off the back of the chassis so I added a "push bar" to protect it a bit.

I've heard that "ventillating" the frame, front axle and wishbones only cuts a pound or two.

Do any of you run one of those small light weight batteries? With no alternator I'm kinda skeptical one would stay strong for a whole day of racing.

The battery is good ballast and it's all over the rear end where you want it.

[Old Jimmy Six]

Everybody in Tulsa has portable generators and they charge the battery between rounds. Also by doing that you keep the water pump and fan running to cool the engine down. Todd Martin runs one of the small lightweight batteries but they are out of my price range.

[Old28]

I ran one of the red top Optama batterys in my altered and I used the same system that "Old Jimmy Six" talked about and it works fine, cools motor real nice. I am going to run this setup in the SDRA car.

I don't know about you Bob, but I could loss more weight off the car if I "Pushed Back From The Table" a few minutes early at each meal. I think it looks great with the holes, but really does little to take weight off the car.

[Old28]

Bob, What new on your car? Not much talk on the site as of late. My car is still up at by buddy's, he is doing some welding that I can't do while I am getting better from the operation. Also any new work on the truck?

[bobw]

Tom, I've been assembling this. It is the chassis for my (fiberglass) Fiat. Was planning on entering it in an indoor show in April but that ain't gonna happen. Running out of time & money.

I talked to a designer from a local racing converter company. He is working on one for me. Said he never made a converter for such a low horsepower setup. Kinda made me feel bad.

The short block is assembled, except for the oil pump. Not much work to finish assembly. Gotta splash a little paint here & there and put the whole thing back together. Will be puting a TransGo shift kit in the transmission too. My belts aged out so I'll need a new set. That's about it. Should be ready to race when the strips open around here in the spring.

[Old28]

Bob, Don't forget that you can send your belts back to who ever made them to get new 2 year tag, runs about $45. Saves a few bucks over new ones. I think you are going to be surprised at what the car will do with all engine/intake/exhaust/carb work you have done. Tightening up the trans and converter will help to.

You got one fine looking chassis for the Fiat. Looking forward to some pictures with the body. Real nice construction.

[bobw]

Yes, I know about recerting the belts. Unfortunately, I misplaced the reciept. Another senior memory thing.
Did manage to put the engine together today. It's bagged and sititng in the corner until I get the transmission done.
Measured deck height and cc'd a couple combustion chambers. After cutting .100" off the block and .070" off the head and using a .023" steel head gasket, it still only has a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio. Could this be an 87 octane race engine???

[Old28]

Bob, You do not need any receipt to get them re-certified. You only need to contact the manufacture and send the belts to their place. All the belt manufactures are on line.

What cc did the head chambers run? Are the pistons flat top? How far down are the pistons from the deck?

Hows the truck coming along?

Got to get a little print going on here, not much talk lately.

[bobw]

The stock flat top replacement pistons sit .078" down the cylinder even after cutting the deck .100". A .070" cut on the head yielded a 53cc combustion chamber. The steel head gasket is .023" thick. Fortunately I have a mild reground cam so it shouldn't bleed off too much cylinder pressure.

I told the converter guy that the engine should produce around 200 hp. at 4,500-5,000 rpm. Torque around 200-225 ft-lbs. at maybe 3,500-4,000. These are WAG's on my part as I have no experience with slant sixes. Am I in the ballpark?

A little more engine info: Stock bore & stroke. .465" lift/272 duration cam. Oversize intake & exhaust valves. Mopar 340 springs. Pocket porting only. 2 Carter BBD 2 bbl carbs on home made intake. Home made header.

The truck is stored in the back garage for the winter. I'll install side glass, door weather stripping and the bed floor in the spring. It will get full tail pipes too.