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Desoto guys... removing rear drum?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Vorhese, Sep 11, 2009.

  1. Vorhese
    Joined: May 26, 2004
    Posts: 769

    Vorhese
    Member

    1953 Desoto
    I've been pounding and heating and crying for 3 hours and can't get the rear drums off. Is there a secret to these? I've disconnected everything, plenty of WD, the hub spins freely. It almost seems rusted to the spindles maybe. I can't destroy these drums, don't make em anymore. Autozone, Kragen... no one's ever heard of a drum puller. Looks like this, but on rear.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. llonning
    Joined: Nov 17, 2007
    Posts: 681

    llonning
    Member

    They make a special puller for those. DO NOT use a jawed puller, you will ruin the drums. The one for those uses the wheel studs as the pull point. Also back the nut off until the axle threads are flush with the surface of the nut. Please don't ask how I know this. Painfull memory.
     
  3. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    You likely have a nut on the end of a tapered axle. Best way is to find a hub puller.

    Sometimes driving it with the nut backed off one turn will loosen it, but make sure the cotter is installed before trying.

    The old way back in the teens, was that there was a special threaded thing the screwed onto the threads, then belt it with a big hammer.
     
  4. Vorhese
    Joined: May 26, 2004
    Posts: 769

    Vorhese
    Member


  5. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 585

    hkestes
    Member

    I have removed the ones from my 48 Plymouth (same design) with a slide hammer style puller. Before you do it with a slide hammer use penetrating oil on it for several days straight and then do not hit it real hard. If you hit it to hard you could damage the seals.

    As said above I know of folks who have backed the nut off slightly and drive it around the block. When it comes loose you will hear it. I have also heard of backing the nut off, jacking up the other side of the car and then pushing the car sideways toward the tire still on the ground. Never tried either of these myself but have heard of it working. With both I would again use plenty of penetrating oil.

    With any method you use do not remove the nut on the axle completely before the drum is loose and ready to be pulled off. When the drum comes loose it can launch itself into a shin real quick.
     
  6. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 585

    hkestes
    Member

    "Yeh here's from the manuel. Where the hell do I get this tool...
    I guess one of these?"

    Try the P15-D24 site. There are some guys on there who live in your area. If you are lucky one of them may have the tool and let you borrow it or even be willing to help.

    www.P15-D24.com
     
  7. I had the same problem a few years back. I decided to make my own. It works great. Looks primative. If you can weld or know someone who welds you can whip one together in a snap.

    If you have any questions on how to build one let me know.


    BloodyKnuckles
     
  8. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Try a regular tool rental store,they normally have them.
     
  9. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,877

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    Big ass factory puller:DBigger fucking hammer, back the nut off, and swing away like you were in Yankee stadium....tapered axles are the shit!:eek: I'd like to say mine fell right off, it didn't.
    Wait till you try to pull the water distribution tube.
     
  10. Vorhese
    Joined: May 26, 2004
    Posts: 769

    Vorhese
    Member

    Yeh I think I'm going to make my own tomorrow. Seems simple enough. Big center bolt and nut, and add nipple to end of bolt, 3 legs welded to a center bracket, weld nut to center braket. Use impact wrench or weld breaker bar to center bolt?
    If you wanna post yours up, I'd appreciate any help I can get.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,828

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    if you are going to make your own be careful. I'm not sure if an impact will work?? make it superheavyduty extra strong. I've pulled a few of those. you beat that T with a giant hammer and it doesn't come off a little at a time. it pops off and goes BAM all at once. I would hate to think what might happen should your home made puller break.

    look at the little hammer in the picture from your manual. they may have come off with that when new, but I used a 3 lb sledge.
     
  12. jimi'shemi291
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 9,499

    jimi'shemi291
    Member

    Last time I did brakes on my '55, I had to borrow a hub-puller, just like Vohees shows here. You could beat on it all day. Takes a hub puller.
     
  13. VAPHEAD
    Joined: May 13, 2002
    Posts: 3,257

    VAPHEAD
    BANNED

    bought mine from a HAMB'r
     

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  14. If you weren't so far away, I have a puller you can have.
     
  15. jimi'shemi291
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 9,499

    jimi'shemi291
    Member

    Carl, that's a VERY kind gesture from one HAMBer to another. If he comes up with one on his end, I'd gladly pay you someting & freight out her to Ohio, 'cause I'm in a fix with my '38 Plymouth. No puller & creeping oil hasn't done the trick yet. I'm talking years of rust 'round the drum & shoes, so it's a diff. situation.
     
  16. sliderule67
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 367

    sliderule67
    Member
    from Houston

    Seems like we usta warm them just a little before the flailing began. But I don't remember trying to pull them with the wheel on like the pic shows. I must be thinking about the buckboard. Is that right, Little Joe? Hoss?
     
  17. Vorhese
    Joined: May 26, 2004
    Posts: 769

    Vorhese
    Member

    Thanks Carl, I appreciate the gesture. I'll see how it goes tomorrow.
     
  18. If you can weld, or know someone who can, try this. There isn't a tapered axle that will stand up to it...
     

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  19. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    I've pulled them with three pieces of chain on three wheel studs. Put a fourth chain from the apex of the three, to a hell of a big sledge hammer. I welded a link to the hammer head. Then swing the hammer away from the axle, straight in line with it. The chain comes tight, and WHACK! the hub comes off...... Sometimes. If not, do it again. Just don't stand in line with the axle, stuff can come off with a lot of force. Leave the nut on the axle to catch the hub.
     
  20. Big Dad
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 4,773

    Big Dad
    Member

    I'm don't know what they look like on the era car first hand but ..

    If they look like a later model 8 3/4 tapered axle rear on a 62 Plymouth

    we could take a short length of log chain and SNAP it like a whip and pop them out , never ,ever used a puller to get them out

    But, without seeing it first hand, I don't know if its the same ?
     
  21. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,877

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    Not the same, 46-48 axle real tight clearances.:)
     
  22. wow! nice puller and hell for stout. those tapered axels can really be a bitch. before you start pulling heat and wick some beeswax into them as that will make the job way simpler.
     
  23. jimi'shemi291
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 9,499

    jimi'shemi291
    Member

    55Dude, I have osme beeswax. So, it's better than CREEPING OIL? (Meaning, if gotten HOT enough?)
     
  24. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And they never seem to come off without putting up a fight. The puller designed for it is the best option but the one using the hydraulic jack should work if the jack is strong enough.

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  25. I have the correct tool, however I live in the KC area. I haven't used in in years. If you have no other luck, I would send it to you, but the freight would be expensive as the sucker is heavy.

    Maybe we should start a weird tool collective. I could donate the puller to the HAMB Universe, whereby folks who needed it would pay for shipping and pass it along when the next request came along. Food for thought.

    trakrodstr
     
  26. jimi'shemi291
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 9,499

    jimi'shemi291
    Member

    TrakRodStr: That'll be interesting to see if anybody else would buy in to the idea -- VERY similar to Axeman's "Pay Forward ..." thread!

    MAYBE (even with paying the freight both ways), a guy MIGHT be ahead in the long run "borrowing" a classic tool from a fellow HAMBer???
     
  27. James Curl
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 370

    James Curl
    Member

    You are showing a picture of the front suspension, they do not take a puller but the backs require all means described in the above posts. On the front the drums are riveted to the hubs and require you to remove hub and drum as a unit.
     
  28. Vorhese
    Joined: May 26, 2004
    Posts: 769

    Vorhese
    Member

    ^^^ James, yeh I know. I worded it in the first post that it was a picture of a front.

    Anyway, I failed. I made this puller, and I was feeling pretty good. It just bent. I could probably build a better one if I worked on it longer, but at this point, it's not worth it to me.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If someone wants to mail me one, I'll pay shipping. And I'll keep it until the next poor sucker in the HAMB-O-VERSE needs it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2009
  29. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    Put the wheel and tire back on, remove the center nut and using the tire wiggle and pull, it should come right off, unless there is a big ridge on the drum, that is hanging up on the shoes. The rears need the puller, the fronts should come right off. If its hanging up, you may need to crank the adjuster cams all the way in. If this is you first experience with MOPAR brakes, go to the P15 -D24 site and read the material about dealing withthe adjusters.

    http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/wipbrakeframeset.html
     
  30. Lancer
    Joined: Jan 11, 2004
    Posts: 1,346

    Lancer
    Member

    This is exactly why I swapped out my entire rear with a 70 Mopar 8.75. same width just relocated the mounts. Not that this helps you any but you may want to consider it. Mine is also a 53 Desoto.

    I guess once you have a puller that works its not such a bid deal.
     

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