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Old 03-23-2011, 08:46 AM   #21
Big A
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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I'll tell you what though, its amazing how much I learned from this experience.
That's the right attitude. Kharma will kick the seller's ass, you focus on your truck. It looks like it's in good hands. I was really pissed about my car for awhile, but it forced me into tackling stuff I've never attempted and I'm learning a ton.
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:51 AM   #22
tonkadawg
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

yeah posies makes 3" lowered springs - be sure to get part # 440A if you're using a later model axle - they will center the wheels.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:59 AM   #23
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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That's the right attitude. Kharma will kick the seller's ass, you focus on your truck. It looks like it's in good hands. I was really pissed about my car for awhile, but it forced me into tackling stuff I've never attempted and I'm learning a ton.
Me too, that is actually the first time I have pulled an engine. Seen it done a million times but never done it by myself. Oh, I shouldnt say I did it myself, my wife helped quite a bit too.

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Originally Posted by tonkadawg View Post
yeah posies makes 3" lowered springs - be sure to get part # 440A if you're using a later model axle - they will center the wheels.
That is exactly what I need! Thanks!

Sure, a 4 link air bag set up would be nice, but for my first build I am going for somewhat affordable and easy.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:18 PM   #24
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

Got everything (engine/trans/rear axle) loaded on the trailer and its off tommorow to the shp, hope it all checks out ok. I pulled the rear leafs out and saved all the junk, but will be going back with posies out back. I found some camaro coils but they are cut. I am going to throw those in just to get the frame mobile after getting the rear axle back, then take it for blasting.

I firgured I would strip the frame completely once I get it out from under the cab and take it to them bare, with the rest of the stuff I want blasted in boxes. Are there any precautions I should take as far as what can be blasted. Will they actually be "sand" blasting or using some other media, or is that something that is determined by what you are having cleaned?

What about the blasters you can buy at, say, tractor supply? Are they worth it, do they do a good job, etc. I thought about buying one of those and laying down a tarp, then maybe erecting a canopy type deal with plastic sheet sides to make a sort of booth to cntain the mess, is that feasable?
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:55 PM   #25
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

At least slap him around a little, maybe thump his woman,,,,
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:10 AM   #26
1950ChevySuburban
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

Sounds like your making good progress there. More pics?
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:52 AM   #27
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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I firgured I would strip the frame completely once I get it out from under the cab and take it to them bare, with the rest of the stuff I want blasted in boxes. Are there any precautions I should take as far as what can be blasted. Will they actually be "sand" blasting or using some other media, or is that something that is determined by what you are having cleaned?

What about the blasters you can buy at, say, tractor supply? Are they worth it, do they do a good job, etc. I thought about buying one of those and laying down a tarp, then maybe erecting a canopy type deal with plastic sheet sides to make a sort of booth to contain the mess, is that feasable?
right, sand, aluminum ozide, glass beads, garnet - all of which can be had invarioius grits - depend on what you are cleaning. an industrial blaster might be agressive, since you are paying by the hour, so anything with a machined surface, that carries a fluid, that is out of aluminum, etcetc you should strip off the chassis. blasting takes a LOT of air volume. the home units are ok for small jobs with the typical home shop compressor, but you would struggle to do a chassis with them. Hamber CJSteak has a good setup upin Pflugerville and knows how to blast sheetmetal without warping it.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:13 AM   #28
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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That is exactly what I need! Thanks!

Sure, a 4 link air bag set up would be nice, but for my first build I am going for somewhat affordable and easy.
I'm doing the exact same thing - ordering everything first of next week. Here's a list of parts and prices I put together - hope it helps:

440A Springs - $345.95
455 - Spring Eye Bolt - $34.95
450 - Rear Shackles $84.95
8003 - U Bolt Plates - $18.95
8002 - U Bolts - $25.95

For the U Bolts and Plates remember to measure the diameter of your axle.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:14 AM   #29
JustJoey
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

I was in the same boat with my 50. I hated the way the clip was done so I ended up scrapping the frame and starting from scratch. The only thing ive kept from the original truck was the cab and engine/trans. Live and learn I guess. Good luck with it.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:47 AM   #30
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

Did I miss somthing here, it sounds like you bought a truck that wasnt finished and you are suprized that its needs work? Im not trying to be an asshole, its just how I read this.
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:08 AM   #31
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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Originally Posted by tonkadawg View Post
I'm doing the exact same thing - ordering everything first of next week. Here's a list of parts and prices I put together - hope it helps:

440A Springs - $345.95
455 - Spring Eye Bolt - $34.95
450 - Rear Shackles $84.95
8003 - U Bolt Plates - $18.95
8002 - U Bolts - $25.95

For the U Bolts and Plates remember to measure the diameter of your axle.
You are the man, man!!! I should be ordering it pretty soon as well.

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Originally Posted by JustJoey View Post
I was in the same boat with my 50. I hated the way the clip was done so I ended up scrapping the frame and starting from scratch. The only thing ive kept from the original truck was the cab and engine/trans. Live and learn I guess. Good luck with it.
Yep, thanks!

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Did I miss somthing here, it sounds like you bought a truck that wasnt finished and you are suprized that its needs work? Im not trying to be an asshole, its just how I read this.
Yea, your missing a bunch. Essentially got taken for a ride because I was/am a newb. Was told the truck was running and driving except for needing coil springs/shocks and minor repairs and turns out its a hunk. Not a problem if I got it for a good price, but I paid a ton for it because I'm an idiot. The end.
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:36 PM   #32
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

Don't slap him around, steal his tools. Then you can show the judge the pictures and claim it was in the name of public safety.
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:38 PM   #33
Big Nick
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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Originally Posted by shadams View Post






Yea, your missing a bunch. Essentially got taken for a ride because I was/am a newb. Was told the truck was running and driving except for needing coil springs/shocks and minor repairs and turns out its a hunk. Not a problem if I got it for a good price, but I paid a ton for it because I'm an idiot. The end.
You aint kidding, I did miss a bunch. Now I understand! Sorry about that. yes it sure sucks, but like you said you are learning and once you are done you will know that truck inside and out and it will be yours! keeping pressin on dude!
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:27 PM   #34
dirtydixon
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

I'm going to watch this thread. I'm going through something like you with my 54. The previous owner loved taking shortcuts. Having to do everything over makes you learn a lot though.

-I learned that bondo is the cure-all for autos.
everything from cab corners, dents, holes and anything else.
- I learned that you don't need to wire your cars with a harness, you can just electrical tape everything.
- I also learned that it's cool to use a wood 2x4 for a cab support. (that one pissed me off) I am sure that is just the start, as everything isn't apart yet.


Good luck with your build, keep plugging away at it. At least you're taking the time to do it right. just keep your eye on the prize and think of how bad ass it will be when you are cruzin it.
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:21 PM   #35
shadams
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

Thanks guys...

So half ass find #55, the trans crossmember is apparently too far back for the engine/trans combo, or they welded too much of the front clip on, and instead of moving the crossmember or fabing one the welded a plate to the back of the trans mount, drilled 4 holes in it and bolted it up. I didnt notice it at first, but when I took the bolts out this big plate fell out, and when I got it to the shop today I saw the broken weld on the back of the mount......sheesh....
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:40 PM   #36
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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Originally Posted by dirtydixon View Post
I'm going to watch this thread. I'm going through something like you with my 54. The previous owner loved taking shortcuts. Having to do everything over makes you learn a lot though.

-I learned that bondo is the cure-all for autos.
everything from cab corners, dents, holes and anything else.
- I learned that you don't need to wire your cars with a harness, you can just electrical tape everything.
- I also learned that it's cool to use a wood 2x4 for a cab support. (that one pissed me off) I am sure that is just the start, as everything isn't apart yet.


Good luck with your build, keep plugging away at it. At least you're taking the time to do it right. just keep your eye on the prize and think of how bad ass it will be when you are cruzin it.
I don't know about pickups, but the rear 4 body mounts on my Suburban are factory wood.
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:14 PM   #37
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

Great thread so far.
I just love P.O.'s. People that work on cars with out a clue.
It's a good thing you bought this truck.
Some kid could have bought it and tried to drive it!.
No rear brakes at all!! Are you kidding me???
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:26 PM   #38
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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Originally Posted by 1950ChevySuburban View Post
I don't know about pickups, but the rear 4 body mounts on my Suburban are factory wood.
I have a 53 pickup and the cab mounts are metal (with a little pad), and the bed sits on these ~2"x2"x2" blocks of wood sandwiched in metal caps, then on a pad.
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:36 PM   #39
Big A
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

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Originally Posted by shadams View Post
What about the blasters you can buy at, say, tractor supply? Are they worth it, do they do a good job, etc. I thought about buying one of those and laying down a tarp, then maybe erecting a canopy type deal with plastic sheet sides to make a sort of booth to cntain the mess, is that feasable?
I took my frame to an industrial sandblaster, the guy's "walk-in blasting cabinet" is a pole barn. He quoted $400 for blast/prime/epoxy, and when I picked it up he only charged me $260... money well spent. Sandblasting small stuff is one thing, sandblasting a frame is a big, dirty job.

I stripped it completely bare before taking it to the blaster, less work for him = less money he charged me.
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:35 PM   #40
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Default Re: Sigh......and so it begins, 1950 3100 redo

Well. Pulled the rear diff cover and man was it nasty. First of all, full of water. Second, open diff. Again, all fixable but for crying out loud!!! Phone is dead so no pics, but there is surface rust on stuff and stinks bad, grrr.

Ok, so rear locking diff, rebuild kit, rear shoes and wheel cylinders, resurface drums, clean/blast and repair housing and figure out if the spring saddles on there right now will work with the new leafs I am ordering.



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Sandblasting small stuff is one thing, sandblasting a frame is a big, dirty job.

I stripped it completely bare before taking it to the blaster, less work for him = less money he charged me.
Agreed, one of my techs says he will let me use his blaster, so I will strip it down and do the little stuff with that and get the frame done by the pro's.
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