I have read snippets all over the place about a Chev 4 on a T oil pan and transmission and there have been some pretty famous cars with this set up, I think there is one in Bill Evans private museum in San Diego, along side a Blitzen Benz. Not bad company I've never seen one but have wanted to do one for ages. I nearly have enough bits to make a good start on it so here goes. It will for sure take a while. Hopefully you folks have some decent input or at least minor interest... This won't be a Chev engine build thread so much, there is a big enough thread on that elsewhere. My Chev will be mainly stock-ish. I have a '25 T rolling chassis. I'm looking to have the Chev, T transmission and an A rear end. If there's enough room I will put a box on the back of the T trans but I don't want to alter the wheelbase. I have an A 3 speed lying here so would like to shoe horn it in, that'll give me 6 speeds. Very nice. First things first. Pull the crank out and drill it to accept the flywheel and input shaft.
I am looking forward to following this build. I was going to do the same thing following Gerber's recipe but decided to put chev motor and trans into T chassis. So far it is working out to be straightforward. I must get around to updating my build thread!. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/me-to-a-t.859578/
Thanks for your input folks. Initial measuring puts the crank flange to close to the block and too much material on the back of the block so it's an engine strip and get the back of the block machined to accept the T trans cover. I have a question about my Pistons which you chev guys could probably help with. In the engines recent past it's had some replacements, but only 3. I have an odd one. Could do with some help I'd-ing them to hopefully get a 4th to match. More detail when they're out. If that dam front pulley ever comes off.......
There are some T speedsters around with Chevy, or Olds 4 heads adapted to the T block. Set up right, they can give a Fronty all it wants. Y block Ford pistons were used quite a bit in T engines.
Can anyone lend a hand ID-ing theses Pistons? 3 measure 3.720" The odd one measures 3.68 and is way too small in the cylinder Why anyone would over bore then not fit the correct piston...... I would like to try and source a matching one to the correct 3 if it's possible Any ideas? Thanks in advance Andy
Andy it may be worth posting your question on the 28 chev thread. Herb (on the 28 thread) is very knowledgeable on these matters. All I can offer is that the three matching invar strut pistons look like 1928 while the odd one is possibly 1927. Probably worth buying a new set from Filling Station or look at upgrade options like Chev 261 or Ford Model A to increase compression.
Yeah I'll do that. TBH I did plan to post over there but made a mistake. Thanks for your help. Getting a single piston is probably a no go anyway
Yeah. I started out wanting to OHV the T block but I've developed a real need to complete this engine swap. Currently trying to find a local shop who can machine the back of the block. Not as easy as I thought to find someone up for it... Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That is one of the neat things about reading up on Gerber- he did most of the work himself with the skills he learned in the Army or from local craftsmen!
while the crank is out be sure to face off the end for transmission alignment, critical for the heavy T transmission. have fun with your project!
After some measuring on both engines it turns out that the T flywheel sits only 4mm closer to the Chevy block than the T. So I only need a 4mm shim between crank and flywheel to ensure the Trans and bands line up with the transmission cover. I can machine it from a spare input shaft I have. Nice. A small bit of modification on the front of the oil pan to seal it over the front main cap and timing cover. I'll most probably butcher the front of the Chevy sump and weld that piece in. The crank pulleys too large for the pan so I may have to swap it, the front of the pan needs all its strength as I see it as it's also the front engine mount. Model a pistons and rods on their way. New valves in head done. (Ford Sierra 1.8 CVH fit like a glove ((ish)) All good so far . Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Some progress here. Some.... I've got the front axle together and the front hub adapters are on giving me better wheel choice. The A rear axle is done but not installed, not quite decided on wheel base. The Chevy head is done, new valves and seats etc. I'm still looking for someone to drill the Chevy crank for the T transmission shaft, as the run out is so important I need it bob on. I've worked out I need an 18mm spacer between crank and input shaft to line the T trans cover with the trans. More to come.... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Some progress here. Some.... I've got the front axle together and the front hub adapters are on giving me better wheel choice. The A rear axle is done but not installed, not quite decided on wheel base. The Chevy head is done, new valves and seats etc. I'm still looking for someone to drill the Chevy crank for the T transmission shaft, as the run out is so important I need it bob on. I've worked out I need an 18mm spacer between crank and input shaft to line the T trans cover with the trans. More to come.... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Took a whopping 7 inches out of the front ride height today using the old trick of Flipped front spring perches. It may be too low but the car, at the moment, is telling me it wants to be a single seater special so it could work. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have the piston you need. Let me know if your still in need of original piston or if your buying new ones.
Thanks. I'm tending to agree. Paintslinger, thanks for the help. I have decided to re bore to accept model A pistons for a few reasons. It needed a re bore anyway, they add a bit of height and no problem fitting them to the rods. They are also dirt cheap to buy. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Roger that. It's a good idea to fit new pistons anyway. You don't have to worry about them down the road. I was pretty late to help out but I think you are making a good choice with new bore, pistons and rings plus model a's are easier to get. I just didn't want to leave you hanging if I can help out. Looking forward to your build so please keep updating us. I'm looking to build a center seat 20s race car on a t frame down the road so I love to see others ideas. I have a 27 chevy AA 3w coupe. And have extra motors and trans so I might as well build a racer.
Thanks man. Everyone should have a single seater. Talking of centre seats I think mine will have to be off centre. I will struggle to get a period steering box and cowl steering isn't essential as I'm using a 4 pot. I think I will end up using the A column and modified T steering arm. I'm trying to make this 90% pre '31. We will see. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm using A rods so they seem the sensible choice. They are also off the shelf here in the uk. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes it is. I through away the rad some time ago, or sold it. never thought I would use it. Really wish I hadn't now. ....never throw stuff away Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great stuff. Andrew if you're on Facebook, you should join us in the Barnstormers VSC group. There are a number of us who would enjoy following your build.