Thanks for the invite. Something worth logging into Facebook for you say. Ill try and figure it out, haven't used it in a long while. Vintage and speed are two of my favourite words. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've got a pile of T Speedster parts that need to be worked on and not just walked by, maybe seeing your build will get me motivated. What was the tail section from? Bob
Not sure, found it while rooting around a friends yard. It looks home built, pretty crude. Suits me fine.. it's what this is all about for me Everyone needs a speedster in their life Bob
Looking good.... I'm just getting back working on my single seater I'm going bobtail more less been messing around with different body ,cowl, ideas.... I'll be watching this see what you come up with.... I think one of these little things have to be a blast to drive... Sent from my QTAQZ3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great stuff! Not sure how I missed it before??? I'm building an early sprint type car as well so I watch with great interest! Cheers!
I have been gathering things up and getting ready to hit it if the weather would clear up.... my work area for that one is out side its kind of a fill in project for when there's a gap in my other projects it's being put together with parts that I have gathered over the years ..Stuff the that has been given to me or scrounged up the engine and trans is a Volvo 1800 from a 63 544 that's all rebuilt and fresh a guy I know had to get out of his way it was free..So far my total cash put out is $30 bucks I have not been able to do anything on my stuff for almost two years I got kidney cancer I thought I was on my way out started selling off some of my cars,....55 Chev ex gasser put on the street ,51 Chev Pu hot rod late 50's style lowered 235 duel carbs Fenton's Laker plugs a model a Pu ,57 Hillman wagon gasser project and more most of them I've had for 20 years then after a few surgeries removing my one kidney and most of my other one they say I'm cancer free my last surgery was just be for Christmas kind of of pissed me off when they said I'm going to live after selling my stuff but I still have the model T ,a 50 stude champion it's getting most of the stuff from the 55 and a 50 Chev Bel air HT and a 27 Buick sedan it's a one owner under 80,000 miles been in barn from 57 when the original owner died till about 6 yrs ago so back to work I go....Thanks for the interest ... Didn't mean to bore you... the pics are some of the mock up of the t Sent from my QTAQZ3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Andrew ...Sorry about jumping the gun here... Realized the post was for cactus 1 wasn't trying to force my self on any one ..You both have some good stuff going on and I will be watching....Once again I'm very sorry to both of you Sent from my QTAQZ3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Really interesting thread. Will the Chevy 4 banger block bore out far enough for Model A pistons? I thought that they were 3 7/8" bore.
It is pushing it a bit but yes there is enough meat there. The block is going from 3.6975 to the A size of 3.876 Probably not recommended by many but not much of this project would be. I'm having my big ends ground to fit the rods, although the ford and chev journals are the same my ford rods are a tad small. I'm having so many Machine shop hold ups. All out of my hands Having the crank flange drilled is another one. If I had my time again I'd be a lathe owner.
Going beyond 3 7/8 creates a real weak spot between 1 and 2/3 and 4. That limitation creates the need to start looking at compression and stroke for more power.
Like I said, not recommended. But. It's a VERY cost effective way to alter the compression height and get new pistons in there. Will it turn into the weakest point in the block? Who knows but I suspect not. Let's not forget this is a weekend now and again engine, not a high miler. Andy
I'm with you, Andrew, but I'm looking at the idea of hill climbs and dirt/beach racing... so I really don't want to split the block there Also agree that the worst spot is probably the center main, where the distributor hole runs right through the webbing, but that can be reinforced.
Mac. I have taken on board lots of your advice over the years. Think your the reason I own a copy of Gerbers book. And I would prefer smaller pistons but I'm so limited on budget, got to keep things on track so the A route is governed by that. I think Herb ran A Pistons in an engine, I remember him saying he wouldn't do it again but didn't elaborate on why. Would be interesting to know his thoughts on that.
Andrew, A really appreciate the trust- truth is, everything good I know about the early Chevrolet 4 is from Herb and Gerber's book (and the good folks from the HAMB thread)... everything that doesn't seem to make sense is from my fool head You'll have to ask Herb why he wouldn't do the A pistons again- seem to remember it was the amount of work to make it happen, and he was pretty emphatic about not going beyond 3 7/8, due to the quality (or lack thereof) of the block castings and the space between the bore pairs. Somewhere in the midst of the the thread, there was some discussion about a European/Australian car/truck that would have good pistons to use- you may have more luck finding them than we would here in the US. The other idea would be a set of Chevy 261 pistons- I think .030 overbore work well, but that's really alot of Ebay searching/waiting
Thanks! Yes I've been a bit sidetracked with a few other projects, car and homestead related. Not enough hours in the day!
A set of custom pistons really isn't all that expensive and you'll only need 4. That's a lot of metal to remove, cylinder walls will be pretty thin in places and we all know the much lower quality metallurgy of the period. What does the compression height need to be and the pin size? Surely there's a better option than to bore the block that far. I'll look through my catalogs and see if I can find something.
Well here is the specs for model A. I really would like to Keep the A rods If you would flick through some books it would be much appreciated Piston Specifications Displacement 200.5 cubic inches Material Aluminum Weight 1 lb. 1-7/8 oz. (476.8 grams) Variance in Weight of Pistons +/- 2 grams Weight with Rings Installed 1 lb. 4-1/2 oz. (581.2 grams) Weight with Rings & Pin 1 lb. 8-3/4 oz. (701.7 grams) Diameter 3.8745" (Bore 3.875") Length 3-29/32" Piston Skirt .001: small on the top than on the bottom of the skirt Piston Pin Hole .9996" to .9998" diameter Piston Pin Diameter 1.0001" to 1.0004" Pin Length 3.536" to 3.546" Compression Height (Top of piston to pin centerline) 1-29/32" Variation in Piston Compression Height.003" to .005" Piston Pin Bushing ID .992", OD 1.0675" Length 1.593" Pin Fit in Rod Bushing .0003" max Pin Fit in Piston .0002" to .0005" shrink fit Pin Bore Parallel to Head of Piston +/- .001" Piston Fit in Cylinder .002" max ( Back to Top ) Piston Ring Specifications Ring Diameter Same as piston, 3.875" stock Ring Groove Depth, 7/32", Width - Upper 2, 1/8" Lower, 5/32" Ring Taper .001"- narrower at the top than the bottom Ring Clearance in Groove .001" to .002" Ring End Gap Top .012" to .015"; Middle .010" to .012"; Lower .008" to .010" Connecting Rod Specifications Material Steel forging Weight 1 lb, 6 oz. Balance Weight 552 grams +/- 1 gram, crank end 198 grams +/- 1 gram, pin end Length 7-1/2" center to center Crankshaft Bearing 1-1/2" diameter, 1-5/8" wide Piston Pin Bearing 1" diameter, 1-5/8" wide Bearing Side Clearance .008" to .012" Pin Side Clearance .040" to .053" between pin bosses Piston Pin Clearance .0005
Ok so I robbed this valuable doc from the '28 chev thread. Had it a while but never thought of needing it. I forget who compiled it but it's an awsome effort However the A rod and MB piston combo is probably perfect for me.
Well all this piston talk is now moot. Popped into the engineers just now and the blocks on the machine and we have gone past the point of no return.... We are now in model A land
Trial fit. Didn't work. The collets bottom out on the guide, just and just. I'm pretty sure there is .3" valve lift and the clearance isn't enough. No big deal, I can move the grooves up the stem 3mm to give me the clearance I need. It was tough to figure out exactly where to cut the groves, going from peg holes on the original valves to collets and trying to gain a bit of spring pressure. I was going to use stiffer springs but thought better of it, while still using stock valve train. I'm not ready to go down the rabbit hole of making new rockers and push rods. Luckily I still have bundles of patients on this build.
Hello Andrew....Still following your thread , I have a old Ansen's book / catalog that I was going threw and noticed some parts with spec's info and other stuff that I thought may interest you ...Or not..Any way some neat info if can use it...... I posted a couple pages ...You my already have it ..Cool build..... Sent from my QTAQZ3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
