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Projects 1936 Chevy truck build thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by skippycraig, Dec 26, 2011.

  1. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,911

    CGkidd
    Member

    Thanks for the offer on the suspension but I am good there.
     
  2. skippycraig
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 162

    skippycraig
    Member
    from Washington

    Well spent most of the night trying to get my old Wayne compressor working again so I can finish sandblasting.

    Wards in Bremerton did a great job on the radiator. He moved the cap and filled the old hole, installed a petcock, recored, and installed correct size inlet/outlet connections. Now I can fill the hole in the grill and use standard 55 chevy car hoses from any auto parts store.
     

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  3. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,489

    KJSR
    Member
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    That radiator came out bitchen! Mine is some hacked ford truck unit....but it works for now.
     
  4. skippycraig
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 162

    skippycraig
    Member
    from Washington

    @KJSR even with a hacked up ford truck unit... your truck is still my favorite on the HAMB!!

    Cabs is all sandblasted, now on to some much needed repairs.

    Only rockers I have are for a 34 and attach to the wood instead of screw to the steel. Little trimming and some new brackets and rockers are fitting great.

    Still have to do something with the old battery box under the seat.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,489

    KJSR
    Member
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    Thanks man! I made a battery box out of 16ga steel that fit in the original hole. A bit overkill but it should not fall out. Those 34 rockers look great.
     
  6. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,911

    CGkidd
    Member

    Anyone have the measurement either from the front of the door to center line of wheel or from firewall to center line of wheel? Any measurement would be good. I have a 37 cab on a custom frame and I need to figure out where to mount front axle.
     
  7. littlered
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 37

    littlered
    Member
    from Kansas

    isn't it a 112" wheel base? my 36 1/2 ton is 112" hub to hub and that should get you set up correctly. just make sure it is in square!
     
  8. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,489

    KJSR
    Member
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    How is that truck coming?
     
  9. Yeah, what's happening with your truck?
     
  10. drunkenstein
    Joined: May 17, 2009
    Posts: 19

    drunkenstein
    Member
    from Jackson TN

    I am fixing to do my door jambs and dash on my 1936. Anyone know where I can obtain a set of those 1937 steel ones.
     
  11. Colville
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 478

    Colville
    Member

    I really really need an old truck :) Looking good!
     
  12. drunkenstein
    Joined: May 17, 2009
    Posts: 19

    drunkenstein
    Member
    from Jackson TN

    Where do the radiator support rods connect on your truck? The radiator or to the grill shell?
     
  13. littlered
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 37

    littlered
    Member
    from Kansas

    I am trying to sort that out on mine as well. from my mock up it appears as if there is a bracket that links the support rods to the grill. I have been trying to research this online with little luck.

    here is a picture of a 1936 chevy sedan, which might give some insight
    http://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/images/carpics/STL/5012/datafeed/5012s.jpg
     
  14. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,200

    Ghost28
    Member

    Most of the early chevys cars, and trucks had the rods connected to the grille shell and not the radiator. Yep just like the 36 above. On my chevys I usually make split units that mount to the outer inside edge of the grille shell, and a threaded area at the firewall, this way I get better adjustment for hood alighnment.
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2012
  15. There is a separate upper bracket that bolts to the grille shell. I can take some pics later tonight if the one above doesn't explain it well enough.
     
  16. Hotrodhog
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 169

    Hotrodhog
    Member

    You guys are taking me back to 1971 when I bought a '35 Chevy 1/2T and a '36 Chevy 1/2T , both for $35 complete. Never did anything with them except take them apart. When I went to sell them about a year later, I got $50 for one and I couldn't sell the other so the junkman cometh, and took it away :( One of the dashes is still hanging in my shop to remind me that I let them go....
     
  17. littlered
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 37

    littlered
    Member
    from Kansas

    That is a great idea! Definitely going to steal it.:D
     
  18. HungThrottlePodcast
    Joined: Mar 11, 2012
    Posts: 3

    HungThrottlePodcast
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Standard or narrowed a-arms?
     
  19. Skippy,

    Where you be?
     
  20. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Its been over ten years since we last worked on my truck
    Gary & I are installing a Posies rear leaf spring weld in kit
    to a 8" rear (49" wide inside). Will post pics asap
    There was an early nova 10 bolt rear (55"ins)
    Any advice or tips on the shock mts location?
    Can they be tilted back or need to be straight?
    Close to outboard or inboard?
    Any one have pics?
     
  21. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Heres the install pic
    thoughts on shock location?
     

    Attached Files:

  22. LOWCAB
    Joined: Aug 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,989

    LOWCAB
    Member
    from Houston

    Following along with your 36 project. I see we have quite a few people building 36's
    Here's mine.
    [​IMG]
     
  23. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Anybody know what angle we tilt back the shocks?
    Or do we just go straight up (front to back)
    POSIES recommends them to be about 1" from the axle saddle (lowers)
    and the uppers 9-10" in from the framexrail.
    So my concern is front to rear??? Straight up or can we tilt the
    uppers back to reach the rear cross member(sharp angle imho)
    Any suggestions?
     
  24. I'm mounting my shocks on my 33 Chevy with a Posies rear leaf kit. They are straight up from front to back. I asked Posies what angle to mount the shocks as you look at it from the rear. They said 20 to 30 degrees tilted in from the top. I'll try to get you some pics or you can come over and look at it. PM me and let me know where you are in New Hampshire.
     
  25. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Awesome....I am Dunbarton, 15 minutes from you.
    I also used the Posies kit. Got it welded in today
    Straight up sounds best, going to add cross member to mount
    the shocks
    Posies were clear on the angle in but did not mention "straight" up
    When are you going to mount?
     
  26. Working on it this week. Let me know if you want to stop by to check it out.
     
  27. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Yes
    i will pm you
     
  28. maplefrm
    Joined: Aug 15, 2010
    Posts: 603

    maplefrm
    Member
    from Central IL

    I thought that since Low Cab and some others posted pictures of their trucks I would throw my picture into the pile.
     

    Attached Files:

  29. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Anyone have pics on how the truck bed sils& parts go together?
    Location? etc
     

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