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Technical 1939 Mercury Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by swissmike, Jun 28, 2015.

  1. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    It's the Hobart 230V Handler 190 or very similar from Tractor Supply. Has been working well for years now. I'm using .023" wire for everything 1/8" or thinner.


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  2. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Same treatment for the wheel opening on this fender. I am using the same tubing piece like I used on the other side, but had to reshape to its mirror image.

    After trimming the edge, slowly working it around the tubing.

    [​IMG]

    Before welding and addition of the reinforcement pieces.

    [​IMG]

    Her are both fenders on top of each other for comparison.

    [​IMG]


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  3. Looking really good! I'm enjoying following along with your build.
     
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  4. Chavezk21
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 767

    Chavezk21
    Member

    Just read this whole thread. Thank you for the great tips! I was wondering how I could make a one piece trunk for my coupe. Do to the fact that my bead roller does not have enough throat. Now I know what to do! I am definitely going to lift some of your tech points. Thanks again.
     
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  5. HayesDesign&Restlying
    Joined: Dec 31, 2016
    Posts: 79

    HayesDesign&Restlying
    Member

    Very nice I was wondering cause your heat distortion looks to be a minimum. (I thought tig ). But no just perfecting simple tools and and having patience like me and others. Great job. Mainly weld new to old is what caught my eye. It's looks terrific, no more than 8th of an inch of lead or putty might be needed. Takes patience and wherewithal achieve that. Ya you jab it in, warp it. Pff. Lots of bondo can cover. But ya, take the time. And there you go!. The real deal.

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  6. p__moore
    Joined: May 14, 2015
    Posts: 126

    p__moore
    Member

    Really enjoying the detailed pics and explanation.

    Thanks for sharing, really great work.
     
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  7. Lou39
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 128

    Lou39
    Member
    from Cedar, MI

    Good stuff swissmike. I'm motivated to replace the floor in my "A" coupe using your male/female/die and hammer method. A question..what gauge material are you using.
     
  8. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    18 gauge; Ford used 19, but it's not readily available from most metal supply places.


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  9. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Welding new to old, especially rusted metal such as the fenders is a little tricky. I place tacks about 2" apart the start doing 1/4 -1/2" welds from each tack and moving to the next tack. A lot of times even the short beads are more a series of weld spots rather than a continuous weld. Even gaps are a must to keep distortion down. I usually run the thinnest cut off wheel (3/64") between the panels to even the gap before welding. I try to keep the wire directed a little more to the new metal side to reduce burning through.


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  10. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Finished welding the fender lip and added reinforcement pieces in the area of the pie cuts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I fitted the skirts...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  11. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    The patches still needed a little bit of attention from the mallet and sandbag, followed by the English wheel. Wheeling a big, heavy object like an entire fender is tricky. The metal always has to be horizontal between the wheels in order not to introduce new dents or waves.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




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    Ron Funkhouser, 36 ROKIT and koolkemp like this.
  12. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Dusted off the '49 331 that will go into the car and turned it by hand a couple of times. I have had this motor for around 10 years. It came from a restoration project where the owner wanted a new Northstar drivetrain shortly after having the Caddy rebuilt. Also have the original Hydromatic. Anybody have any use for a 49 Cad Hydro?


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  13. Looks fantastic. Hopefully coming down, next weekend.
    JT
     
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  14. Mirko 73
    Joined: Oct 17, 2010
    Posts: 274

    Mirko 73
    Member
    from Roma

    Congratulation great work
     
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  15. ne'erdowell
    Joined: Nov 30, 2005
    Posts: 561

    ne'erdowell
    Member

    Your metalwork is beautiful. Thanks for the detailed tech describing each process.
     
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  16. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Working on the front fender. Only having a few bolts to attach the fender to the cowl makes it important to have a way to prop up the fender while fitting it. I found the cherry picker to be very practical. Once the fender is balanced, there is practically no force on it when putting the bolts in.

    [​IMG]

    The fender had the usual rot where it joins the running board and had a spot welded backing piece, where water got in between.

    [​IMG]

    Again, fiberglass mat and epoxy ....

    [​IMG]

    First thing was to bend a piece of tubing to match the lower edge, as this whole section was rotted.

    [​IMG]

    The patch was bent to match the fender, then the tubing piece was spotted, allowing the rolled edge to be formed.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
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  17. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    I cut of the old edge to better fit the new patch on the outside and scribe the outline before cutting.

    [​IMG]

    Welded solid.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




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  18. sololobo
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 8,378

    sololobo
    Member

    39 Merc, the KIND
     
  19. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Corner facing the grill is rusted out and needs replaced. I ended up making the flange separately out of 16 ga and cutting off the piece from the patch.

    [​IMG]

    As before, a curved rolled edge has to be shaped over a curved tube. Once the rolled edge is shaped, it almost impossible to change the shape.

    [​IMG]

    The new 16 ga flange

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is the cut off piece. The culprit again was the factory reinforcement piece which was spotted on the inside and where rust formed between the layers. The rust increased the thickness to about 1/2"

    [​IMG]


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    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017
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  20. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Lower edge replacement. This was probably not really necessary, but decided to extend the patch for the split all the way to the just finished patch.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Forming the patch over the tubing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Welded in place. I had to separate the short piece from the long leg to get it where it needed to be.

    [​IMG]

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  21. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    More split repairs. This split was so mangled the I made a short insert.

    [​IMG]

    After welding in the insert, I made a reinforcement piece to extend the patch, the spot weld it in place.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Completed. I will use seam sealer around all spot welded reinforcement pieces to prevent moisture and rust formation in the future.




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  22. Great work Swissy. :) :cool:
    Me and Nads will swing by this weekend.
     
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  23. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Finishing the front fender. Welding in the factory reinforcement piece.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The HF flanger/punch works great for plug weld holes. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I used some weld through copper primer to prevent rust between the pieces, but will follow up with seam sealer.


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  24. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Dent was filled with bondo. Fortunately unmolested...

    Carefully pushing the metal out. Starting from the outside. "First in - last out".

    [​IMG]

    This was as far as I could go with the mallet. The metal at the edge was kinked and work hardened from the impact. I used a torch to anneal the area by heating to a dull cherry red.
    This allowed the metal to be worked more using wood and finally metal tools.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  25. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    The fender tab was thin and split, so I welded in a backer

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    On to the other fender!


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    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
    oneratfink57 and cretin like this.
  26. Wow, that was allot of bondo/filler
    But, I guess that was not uncommon back in the day. Once again, nice job salvaging that vintage tin. :cool:
     
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  27. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Great save on a rough fender! Thanks for showing us the tools and steps required.
     
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  28. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 737

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Never thought to anneal a dent to make it workable. Great walk through!


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  29. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,179

    Peanut 1959
    Member

    I'm enjoying following a long as you do these metal repairs. Thanks for showing us your process and progress.
     
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  30. CURSED GEARS
    Joined: Jul 21, 2016
    Posts: 149

    CURSED GEARS
    Member

    Its a good thing you don't post all day or I would never get anything done.
    Great work. Really enjoying this.
     
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