1950 chevy master cylinder question

I just finished up going through the brakes on my 50 Styline. Everything is new and I am down to replacing the master cylinder. I installed a 53 powerglide rear axle and 53 front brakes. I am going to go with a brnd new stock replacement master, do I buy one for 1950 or 1953? Or does it matter either way. Just curious what others are doing. My car is a manual trans, I know that matters also because of the housing. Anyone know please post it up. Thanks

 

So, if you have already gone through the trouble of doing the entire brake system, it would be a great time to add a dual mastercylinder. Way less expensive than a stock replacement, with just a tiny bit of fab work to get it together. Then you'll have benefit of dual circuits, and cheaper replacement parts for down the road.

I think my master was $26. And if I remember right, a late60s-early70s chevy pickup.

 

I hate the adapter tubes, I am not scared of a single. Been around for ears and they still work. I will not go to a dual at his time, just wanting a bolt in and go stock unit. Wile the dual masters are cheap, the kits to install them are not and this car is way too nice to start hacking on it.

 

X2 What Lorax said. There's no way I'd ever replace my stock MC with another like it. I understand that the stock MC didn't do a bad job, the one in my car still works great. But, with a little fabrication, you can have separate circuits. That's a no-brainer to me. I'm building floors foir my car right now, and I'm accomodating a future change to a dual MC in the fab work.

The fact that the dual MC is cheaper and easier to find is just gravy. To me, it's all about safety.

 

I would replace with the '50 unit.

 

Any easy ways to adapt a new dual to my stack master to retain my clutch pedal pivot etc.... I cannot afford a $400 kit but I am decent at building things, have access to a fab shop at work. Any pictures of stuff you guys have built or ideas?

 

chevys of the 40s kit is less than $200, their on line catalog doesn't have a picture
but if you could get a decent picture of one it shouldn't be too difficult to make.
seems you gut and drill the end of the stock master and run a long rod through it to actuate a Mustang master behind it?
I looked into it when I went through the brakes on my '51 last year,
ended up going with a rebuilt stock master.

 

Napa part # 36239 is a dual master with internal residual valves. Will I need to run a proportioning valve and all that stuff or just a line of each port on the master to the front and one to back? I can make the bracket and just need to know whats all involved before starting.

 

I had a 49 sedan and lost the MC and just about ditched a new build, so I Would highly recommend a dual set up, the E brake as it was called back then, an emergency brake, problem was, mine did not work at that time. So the dual set up is a must for a safe driver. Just my 2 cents worth as a FNG here.

 

I am definetely being talked into a dual. Looking at the napa master I mentioned above. I can do the bracket just fine. Just want to know what is all involved plumbing wise. Wit an internal RPV do I just hook up my lines and go? Can it really be as simple as that?

 

Anyone?

 

I had to dump my 53 chevy into a ditch because of a single MC.. my 51 has a single but this winter I plan to switch it out. anytime the pedal feels sponge I fear something is going bad.. or if the brakes pedal moves slightly when stopped at a light on the brake and the pedal pushes alitte more.

I hate having that doubt..

 

I'm in the process of doing this on my '57 Buick. If you're using drum-drum setup, I think you can just use the lines without using other valves. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

FWIW, master cylinders are 100% interchangable from 1940 through 1954, and possibly earlier. Because the pedals mount on the master, they are specific to transmission type, but a Powerglide master will go right in a car that came with a manual and vice versa.

Based on what I could see, the upgrade kit and a new master costs you less than to buy a good quality stock master (about $300 when I looked). You can buy NOS, and get what I did - a nice master with a ring of rust where the piston had sat all those years on the shelf. The upgrade is a bolt on, so there's no hacking needed. It seems like a no-brainer to me.

 

chassis engineering has a kit that requires no hacking on the car, the filling station has a master cylinder kit that is hack free.

 

So... if I buy the internal RPV master, it is all I need to buy? No other valves, etc.... Just fab it up, hook up my lines, bleed it, and ready to go? Correct me if I am wrong.

 

nothing else needed if front and rear drum. if front disc, you'll need an adjustable prop valve.

 

It appears the NAPA part number is no good. Does not pull up a master at all, just an idler pulley. Does anyone know of what application would use a master with internal residual valves, so I can order what I need?

 

I am definetely being talked into a dual. Looking at the napa master I mentioned above. I can do the bracket just fine. Just want to know what is all involved plumbing wise. Wit an internal RPV do I just hook up my lines and go? Can it really be as simple as that?

Almost that simple, yes. You'll have to change the plumbing on the lines a bit. You'll want one line going to both rear, and the other going to both front. JustGadget is correct- you only nbeed a proportioning valve if you have a disc/drum setup. With drujms at all 4 corners, you don't need it.
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Do a search for Texashardcore he did a tech article about updating 49-54 chevies to a dual circuit master cylinder it's worth looking at.

 

I used a '67 camaro dual master on the firewall, hanging pedal from some kind of van. Have worked great for 16 years!

Klaus