Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

My solution for leak free 2 bolt exhaust flanges.

First , nicely faced off flanges.
Then short stubs of exhaust tubing welded into the header flange
They protrude into the into the exhaust pipe by about 3/8".

They fit nicely and when bolted up with Remflex graphite gaskets will not leak
Larry

 

Okay Larry, how this for a suggestion, before coating tap a thread into the lower flange and then when you assemble them for the last time, you can use nice Stainless bolts or screws of the right length to tidy up the bolt nut situation or won't that fit the era you shoot for ?

 

I think I will stick to the bolts and nuts idea. In some cases I do like the threads and no nuts idea however if the threads pile up and can't be rethreaded you are back to drilling them out and using a bolt anyway.
Thanks for the idea or thought.

 

I am using that Remflex material on my SBC headers. I had been having a lot of trouble with leaks previously. The remflex cured my problems. My only caution to you is that the material does not compress very much so you should plan accordingly. I really enjoy your thread!

 

Thanks, I called Remflex about having some flange gaskets made. The 2 bolt flanges I'm using came with the first u build header kit that I unsuccessfully used and I have a pair of thin gaskets that came with them.
They told me that their gasket material starts out at 1/8" and crushes about 50 %. I think I'll have enough flexibility and room in my system to accommodate that.

 

My experience was with the header to head flange. It is possible that the wide flange area does not allow for much crush. It really is a good product. I remember it being kind of fragile (as in easy to crack or break while handling). I did some trimming of the material and did it with extreme care while the material was on a flat surface.

 

In looking at a pair of Remflex square port Y block header gaskets I have in the garage I can see that 3/16" is closer to the true thickness and I think that is more than I need.
I'll have to take a closer look at them to confirm that.
**Edit . The Remflex gaskets are in fact 1/8" and look like they will work well.

I got the passenger side wrapped up, ceramic coating this week maybe

 

All of my exhaust system has been dropped off for ceramic coating. These will be the first shiny pieces I will see for the RPU.
(Ogden Chrome is still working on the shinier parts)
This is fun
I'll get the exhaust back in about a week or week and a half
Larry

 

I hope to drop mine off this week as well.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

WOW! That looks great! Really liking the updates.

 

Speaking of Ogden Chrome, my work assignment for the day took me to Ogden so I stopped in. I spoke to Robby, who happened to be the only one in the office as everyone else was on lunch break. Since he couldn't leave the office unattended, he couldn't take me back to see your parts. He did take my email address with a promise to send me a picture soon as he could. Less than an hour later, he sent me this with the explanation that your parts have been through the blasting process and are next for the copper tank.

Bad decisions make good stories.

 

Wow, thanks so much for that.
I appreciate it. Good to see some progress.
It is hard to see detail from the picture but it appears they have done some work prior to blasting.
I'll drop Jose a line as I was expecting them to remove some of the forging lines from the shock - headlight mounts prior to plating.
Thanks again.
Larry.

 

I'm glad it worked out. As I mentioned in the other thread, I don't get to Ogden very often anymore. But, just a few days after saying that, I was there.

Bad decisions make good stories.

 

Very Nice Build

 

Those filler cans still look pretty clean. Spring is coming.

 

Yes they do I keep finding more work to do before sending the body and frame out for sandblasting
Every time I look at something I find more to do.
First it was the headers and putting the mock up motor back in the frame to sort out the exhaust, and now that is done so I have decided to re-do my PU bed mounts for a better design.
After that I still have a little work with the hammer and dolly and the shrinking disc on the body.....

As a one man crew with not enough hours... you know how that goes.
But I carry on.

 

Speaking of finding more things to do.
I've been unhappy with trying to make the stock T style door latches work smoothly and efficiently.
I have fought with and worked on them long enough.
They are on their way out.
I ordered this kit today.
http://rockyhinge.com/store/product58.html


A mini bear claw latch kit, looks like a nice kit.

 

Larry,

I'm interested in your header caps. I am capping my pipes and like what you did. Did you weld a nut with 'wings' in the end of the pipe? Is the cap stepped to fit in the pipe and then clamped with the center bolt?
Some construction pictures would be nice.

Thanx,

Bruce

 

Hey Bruce here's a few shots.
I'm going to have to polish the caps a little more but you can see how they're made.
There is a step to fit into the pipe snugly.

I cut out a piece of 3/8" plate to weld into the end of the pipe with a thin outer band just thick enough to weld.
As you can see there is a 3/8" threaded hole in the middle.

I picked up some nice ARP stainless bolts to hold the caps.
Larry

 

Larry,
Those are nice. I really like the form of the caps. Didn't think of using a thick plate for the tapped hole. Thanks for the pictures.
I really don't like the bolt on caps with the outside flange , especially with turn outs. Looks like an afterthought.
I hope to see your pick-up in person someday. Details, details, details!

 

I mentioned re-doing my PU bed mounts so here's how I got it done.

I had originally set it up with 4 tabs on the bottom of the bed that were bolted to tabs welded to the inside of the frame.
Solid with no rubber cushion.

Telling myself that I would change them they somehow got welded up and stayed that way.

So, I bolted the bed back on and built 4 new mounts and one by one cut the old ones off and put the new ones on.

Like the body mounts, hockey pucks supplied the material.
Cut down to 1 1/2" with a hole saw and sleeved for a 1/2" bolt.
Much better
Larry

 

With the crush tubes it will still be a solid metal to metal mount. JW

 

I tried to put rubber mounts in for the body mounts with no sleeve and found that you could not tighten the body down to where the mounting bolts were tight and get the doors working properly.
Every time you changed the bolt tension the body moved around and the doors wouldn't close
Structural integrity is not something you can talk about with an old model T body
So I added the sleeves and the problem is solved.

With the new door latches I'll be installing the door problem should be better too.

I'm more concerned with proper mounting and positive location than anything else and I like the rubber mount pads as a cleaner look.
Even cinched down the rubber will serve some function.

I have a good friend with a 27 RPU that's been on the road for over 20 years now with the body mounts done the same way with cut down hockey pucks and it works great.

I'm expecting my car to do everything that any other hot rod will do, shake rattle and roll.

 

I made my body mounts from machine vibration rubber between large washers that are 3'' across. Extra washers are added to shim the doors. JW

 

Looks like that will work fine, I just got tired of having to screw around with the doors trying to make them fit and work every time I pulled the body off the frame which at this point has been many times

 

If I remember correctly, when I made some engine mounts similar to this, the lower hole (frame) was large enough for the sleeve to go through. A big washer on the bottom kept the assembly from pulling through. When the rubber compresses, the sleeve will go through just enough to allow the cushioning effect.

 

I did something similar with my front rad mounts. For the body I am less concerned with that.
Riding in my buddies RPU it really isn't an issue.

 

Boy, that's another sweetheart! Love it with the Deuce shell.

 

It really is a nicely built little car. And with the hot 351 W -C4 it moves along very well

Many rides in it are what kept stoking my passion to build my own.
Larry

 

Just a thought, Model T door openings aren't very wide (19 1/2'). Bear Claw latch pins stick out ready to grab your belt loops, pockets, etc.