Does anyone know if you can use Smoothie fish eye eliminator in Rust-Oleum.? I use a lot of this paint on chassis related parts. Yesterday I had one of those days. I found my air hose had been chewed on by a rabbit, then my spray gun got a case of the squirts and dribbles. I resolved all that, and hung four parts out to spray. I wiped them all off the same, and one fish eyed... I have used a drop or two of Smoothie in Acrylic Enamel, but don't know if it's compatible with Rust-Oleum. If it is, it may save me from using bad words... Thanks...
I would advise against,it is more for automotive finishes and not industrial enamels. What did you wipe the parts with? HRP
No reason it won't. I never had a problem with Rustoleum, as it is oil based you can paint it on oily surfaces no problem if it is not too oily. And you don't use it on the kind of things that get waxed with silicone car wax. But, I have used it years ago when painting things like a pickup truck box or trailer that had been used to haul who knows what.
I always wash my hands, and I wiped the parts with wax and grease remover. It's just race car chassis parts, but it's frustrating when things don't turn out as well as they could..
Fish eye is silicone contamination, and fish eye eliminator is basically a bunch of silicone to wet it all out. So yes, it should work fine and find out where the silicone contamination was coming from.
It could of been oil contamination from your air compressor. Could of just spit enough to fish eye only the one part. After wax and grease did you happen to blow down the parts before paint, or use a tack rag. Even some tack rags can cause contamination. And when you blow it down it can spit some oil from tank.
No recommendation on the use of fisheye eliminator in Rust-Oleum but I do have a fish eye story. Years ago I had an accident with my coupe and bent a frame horn down about three inches and in 45*. Pulled it back in place cold, used a little heat to straighten it up and then stripped the frame from the firewall forward to repaint the Imron. I wet sanded the primer and proceeded to spray on the Imrom but there was more primer showing than maroon top coat. After I got over the shock and thought about it I remembered that I had drained antifreeze before in the same bucket I was using to wet sand! Lesson learned.
I've used fish eye, hardener, and their thinner with it and never had a problem. A friend did a frame using thinner with a very expensive brush and it had no lines and flowed out excellant.
For a industrial enamel like Rust-Oleum a product call Penetrol as a excellent additive for make the paint flow out with conventional spray equipment or a brush. There is a product called Japan dryer that rapidly accelerates the drying time of enamels. HRP
Back in the 70's if you used fisheye eliminator in about 3 months or so the paint would dull and loose almost all of it's shine. Don't know if it is the same with modern paint.
I have used automotive acrylic enamel reducers, hardeners and even urethane grade hardeners with alkyd enamels with no issues ever...
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