Hot Rods Manual Choke Carburetor

They make them, I had one on my 750 edelbrock. Set the adjustment and worked good. A friend of mine has 2 eddy 600s on his blower, both have the electric choke kits on them.

 

Smmit lists Edelbrock #1478 elec choke kit for a 1405

 

This thread makes me wonder, what makes a engine start and run easy when cold.
When I first read this post a few days ago, a engine that needs choke all the time to start, I question if it really is a bad carburetor issue.
I mean, if it runs good once it is started, then sounds like the carb is working as it should.
And if the choke is needed to start the engine, then it sounds like the choke is working.
And installing a electric choke, would keep you from choking a warm engine.
But why does a warm engine need a choke?

Just saying, I am wondering about a couple degrees timing one way or the other.
Maybe a bad ignition part ... condenser?
Compression?

 

I see the part # was posted, I type to slow.

 

With all due respect to the poster in post 28, I must disagree with the interchangability aspect of the post; please check this link:

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/AFBtuningtips.htm

And there are LOTS of differences other than what are mentioned in the link.

As to hard starting, there are dozens of possibilities. Often with modern fuel, there is none in the carburetor. Various tests can be done to ascertain the exact issue.

Jon.

 

Can't tell from Pic, insulating spacer under carb ? In my experiences with aluminum intakes you need a spacer or the fuel boils in carb when shutoff, affects warm/hot start and I have never had a problem with an electric choke.

 

I had a friend suggest a carburetor spacer Saturday night,but the car sat for 4 hours and fired right up without a choke. HRP

 

Dadgummit! Now I went and got myself confused.

With a ballast resistor in the circuit you should have full battery voltage when cranking. With the ignition switch in the "run" position the voltage to the points is routed thru the resistor and reduced. Though it looks like you're running HEI.

Either way it couldn't hurt to make sure that that you have full battery voltage to the distributor when cranking.

 

If an engine won't fire with the introduction of fuel [ maybe not stay running , but fire ] there's something wrong other than the carb , which is why I suggested an ignition problem..

 

Uh, Clay, I think you brought a knife to a gunfight.
This ain't ignitions 101, it's about carbs and chokes.

 

Narrow minded thinking makes for a poor diagnostition...

 

As I stated above, sometimes you need to step back and look outside the "carb". As is often stated around here, 90% of all ignition problems are fuel related. Or 90% of all carb problems are ignition related.

And while we're on the subject of ignoring the obvious, I wonder if anyone thought about checking the cranking vacuum?

 

I should use the smiley face more often.

I was just going by Dannys' original post.
Clay, the statements you made on both of your replies are actually how I usually view these kinds of issues.

 

I had a bad float straight out of the box on the 1406. Started right up, took it for the maiden voyage. Returned and parked it.
On the next start it flooded, fuel boiling out. Took the floats out. 1 of the 2 completely full.
It took on gas under pressure. Couldn't make the gas exit the float. Found replacement floats for it at Autozone


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Check out the plug gap. The standard for an HEI (.045-.060) is WAY to much. Go back to the old days and run at .030-.035. That will help with starting and cover up a weak coil.

I had a stock GM coil in an HEI one time and I always thought it was a carb problem. Had high compression and small cam (not supposed to do that) and had too much resistance to fire the plug. Closed up the gap and it took right off.

Eventually I changed to a high-performance coil, but left the plug gap at .035. Then I could read the jetting. It ran like a "scalded dog" after that!

 

Lot of ideas to check out. HRP

 

Scientifically speaking (as if I really know anything myself ) do them one at a time. Because if one of the ideas fixes it and you did all the repairs at one time which one fixed it ?

 

And... Forgot to mention that's actually a Carter carb from the mid 80's. Basically the same.
600 cfm if I remember right.

 

No doubt. HRP

 

Danny I have a 1405 manual choke edelbrock, electric fuel pump. When I turn the key on cold start one pump on accelerator cranks perfect. I never have used choke even in coldest weather starts.