Technical ***March 2024 Banger Meet Thread - In Like A Lion Out Like A Banger***

Link to previous month: February 2024 Banger Meet

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
April 14, 2024 4 Ever 4 Antique Nationals at Irwindale Raceway in SoCal.
Stay safe.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: [email protected]
phone: 951-695-7313.

A few links to speed equipment companies there may be more
https://specialtymotorcams.com/index.php#header
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/index.html
http://www.modelatrader.com/brumfield/brumfield.html
https://www.hotforhotfours.com/advertisers.htm
https://www.secretsofspeed.com/speed-parts

Bert's, Synder's, Mikes affordable also list some speed performance parts.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

Testing ..1,2,4 it seems to always be that three is the problem child

 

Ugh
Air compressor candidate?
J

 

Blinking into the sunlight… first attempt at TIG with a thrown away welder that only works on scratch start - and made myself a header.

 

I'm here, nothing much to show but have been working on the RPU just about every day for the last few weeks. We have a local Rod run on & am keen to have the banger there.

 

Figured out I have an early '28 column in my '29 roadster, hence why my new light wiring harness isn't playing ball. Going to pull the column and see if I can trade it for a '29 and up one.

The car was put back together out of a couple barns and fields, so I'm thinking its a combo of a couple different years.

 

It was #4 for me

 

I'd go 2-tooth from a 30/31 if you can - way, way better.

 

I’m not a banger enthusiast outside of appreciating their mechanical nature, but there is a LOT of knowledge in your post Jiminy, great to see this stuff being shared with others.

 

Sooo, Dan....what do you attribute it to.....
This is in my buddys car. Not real sooped up but a healthy runner until
bang... about 5K miles on it.....I've got him a loaner to go in while we sort this out

 

Checking in

 

Hello all. This is my first time on this thread. This is my current project on my 30 roadster. Getting closer to firing it up

 

I guess my 1st question would be how much total advance are you running and what's the compression ratio. When I see damage like that, I'm thinking detonation. Did you ever notice any pinging when under a hard pull?

How does the top ring land look? It does not show in your picture. What brand pistons are these? Does not look like there is alot of support for the top of the piston above the pin, but something caused that top to separate other than just normal running. When the engine was assembled, were the ring gaps checked? Was there any indication of the engine getting tight or hard to turn over when warmed up? Is there any sign of scoring on the cylinder walls?

 

These were stock Ford factory pistons. I got the engine well used. I reset the bearing clearances but didn't pull the pistons. I installed my 7.5-1 head, mild cam, and dual Stromberg intake. I probably only ran it for 2-3000 miles until it did this. It didn't owe me anything, so I didn't analyze the failure that close. I just took it that the stock pistons were not up to what I was making them do. I was fortunate that it gave up while I was idling at a light. When I tore it down, I just cleaned everything, ran a hone through it to break the glaze and installed new Federal Mogal modern style pistons and rings, and ran it until I knocked out the rod bearing babbit at the drags. That set up lasted @ 7-8000 miles.

Dan
.

 

I'm still here, without any news, just soaking up the sunshine

 

I chanced upon this just now, it's an interesting theory.

https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Thermostat-Theory.pdf

 

Been busy making trinkets need to build an engine soon. .

 

22 degrees total advance at about 2800 rpm....we are running around at 7000' elevation and he is as deaf as a post
ring gap was checked and he believes that the top rings were gapped at .018....
the engine has 7:1 compression on a Lion II head
we are thinking it was just a faulty piston and he doesn't recall where he got them but nothing exodic
no tight turning engine prior to it failing
no piston wall scoring...and it was being torn down later on because it was using oil....he used a full synthetic during the 'break in period' and the rings never seated
we will tear into it later

 

Since I have one, I was knocked over with the huge article (13 pgs) in the January Secrets of Speed magazine on the Alexander Racing head and its innovative maker, Colonel Alexander. Lots of old photos of him and the different speed parts he manufactured, including Spin Dizzy small race cars. Thanks to Charley Yapp and author Ken Robertson for filling a big gap in my knowledge of these rare bits of racing history.
Awesome info for any banger enthusiast.

SOSS #33-3, January 2024:


Mine:

 

That was a great article.

 

Hey fellas
Time to move this McDowell 2port head
The gentleman I acquired it from broke the crank and it has been sitting for 20 years
No cracks visible
$3500 takes it
Shipping available at cost

 

OOH! don't have one of those!!

 

we can correct that for you.....

 

If only I hadn’t bought 3 overheads in the last few weeks… and if only I had a model A…!

 

Maybe time to upgrade to modern old junk?
J

 

Nah- ya gotta keep and work on the "old" junk, so that when you work on the new modern old junk you can convince yourself that you can work on this new stuff too!!! Phew! did I really say that?

 

Dan,

is it work when you can open up a catalog and just order the parts? My wife may not like the credit card tool too often.

 

Pulled the rods today, second ring on the first piston came out in 2 pieces. Put the rings back in their respective holes and checked gap at a the same depth:

Dan noted last month that "Ring pack should be .125, .125 and .187 oil. Any scoring on the skirts or ring lands?"

One:
#1: 0.045

Two:
#1 0.046
#2 0.058

Three:
#1 0.048
#2 0.052

Four:
#1 0.046
#2 0.045

did not try to remove the oil wiper ring

MTFCa says 0.003 x bore to set gap. Seems a bit worn?

Seems the original builder tried really hard to balance the engine. Happy March!

 

Aye-yai-yai!!!! There is no doubt they went to some effort!

 

Checked the pistons at 90 degrees to pin, on center of the plane.

Piston - Cylinder bore (U/M)

#1 3.788 - 3.7910 / 3.7915
#2 3.783 - 3.7905 / 3.7900
#3 3.785 - 3.7910 / 3.7920
#4 3.784 - 3.7910 / 3.7905

The webernets says to use piston diameter x 0.004 to determine bore? Assume, as long as bore is smaller than that, all is ok?

Piston x 0.004 - cylinder bore (U/M)

#1 3.80315 - 3.7910 / 3.7915
#2 3.79813 - 3.7905 / 3.7900
#3 3.80014 - 3.7910 / 3.7920
#4 3.7991 - 3.7910 / 3.7905

Can I hone and re-ring this, or will it need to be punched out?

thank you.