Well, been waiting for the day I could show something I've build here. Last toy was a 56 f100, 10 years ago. Found a super clean car, all original and untouched, down to the service stickers in the door jamb. I had 2 weeks of over the holidays and dove in head first. I got the flattie running before I tore into it, and it sounded great. Last known service shows in the 60's and the odo is 1800 more that the last sticker! Plan is to leave the flathead and do the t5 swap. I am going with parallel in the rear, with an explorer 8.8. I have the body off the car now, and installing the spring kit. I have a couple questions for those who have done this before. I have the frame bare, and wondering if boxing it is worth it? I also found some frame paint from agrisheild im going to try. Thanks for the help already, looking forward to any suggestions. Been out of the loop for too long!
Did the leaf spring swap on my 41 convertible about 15 years ago. No need to box frame. Have had no problems. I used a mustang 8 inch with disc brakes. Flat tie with stock tranny. Not enough power to cause problems. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That body looks nice. No need to box the frame. I have over 95K on my BBC powered 41 without any probelms.
Thanks guys. I'll back off the boxing idea. Got another question. I want to drop the front also, thinking reversed eye and ditching 4 or 5 of the 12 leafs. Wanting to be ready for a dropped axle when I can fund it.
You can also get longer shackles. But I believe you need a pan hard bar to prevent excessive side to side movement. They are good for a 2" drop. Similar to these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1932-1941-F...LE-/391631746878?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
I have been running VW tires on the front of my cars for 20 something years.It lowers the front so much that a dropped axle is not desirable
Great timing! I am building the same vehicle...In fact, I am planing on the exact same rear suspension. Im going with the Speedway parallel leaf set up. I was also planing on changing out the entire front suspension for the Speedway spring behind, 4 inch drop axle with disc brakes. The biggest difference is I will not be using the flat head engine. Probably a SBC w/auto trans. I just pulled the chassis out yesterday.
I know right?! Im just special that way....LOL.....Had to let the air out for a little extra clearance and when pulling it out, the wheel turned and then locked up and just slid....
I had to look to see if he was from south of the equator, that could have explained it. But he wasn't. HaHa
Nice! Glad to see a similar build at the same time. I went with the Weedetr (sp)for the rear. I liked the way the springs mounted better, plus uses a long car spring, instead of the truck style spring. Also had some local input on the different kits available and this kit has a reputation for a great ride. Ill have mine welded on tomorrow if all goes well, and ill post here.
It used to be they were 5.60 or 5.90 X 15 T42, how are you going to run spring behind the axle? That would change the wheelbase. Or did you just misspeak/write?
The front suspension from the factory came with the spring behind the axle. So I am just up grading the stock spring and axle. Also will be going to radius rods or 4 bar and not using the wish bone or split wishbone set up.
I would like to see different options. Do you have the website for your spring kit? I was also thinking about using the Speedway composite spring kit. Have not decided yet.
Stock the spring is in front of the axle. For confirmation just look at your own picture of the bare frame
Damn....yes, yes....you are correct sir! Had a rather large brain fart there!...LOL....Even after you mentioned it I still did not catch my error....Of course what I meant was spring IN FRONT of axle...Please forgive me...I have only been doing this since the early 70's so Im kinda new to this hobby!!..
Interesring doing the same build. On a hiatis due to working on a 66 Volvo, but was about ready to lift off body. Never did that before, could you tell me how you supported the body when removing with lift. i have a 2 post lift when ready. also going with a parallel rear spring kit, interested on what one you end up with. I too plan on a flathead with T-5 and have an explorer rearend. Seperate question how are you going to deal with the rear end being not centered on the axle.Thanks for any input. look forward to your progress
Rshellen, I used 4x4's under the running board seam. There is a place where the body is pinch welded together with the boards, right next to the frame. Then I spaced my lift arms on the 4x4. Came off great. I also built the cart to put the body on from same material, plus a sheet of plywood to tie it together. Gave the same taper as the frame, works great.
Unless I am mistaken (again..lol) it looks like you went with the standard spring as opposed to the reversed eye. Any particular reason? I am leaning towards the reverse eye for a little lower stance.
After I spoke with the guys at weedetr, I went with the standard eye spring for a couple reasons. He stated that the normal spring would drop the axle center to about equal to the rib above the running boards. That on my car was about 4 to 5 if I remember right. With my front axle plans that would put me pretty good. I could add a block to the rear if needed also to dial it in. They also said they would swap me for the reversed eye if I needed to. I don't want to constantly have the axle hitting the frame, and I have no desire right now to do a notch or raise the floors for something radical.
Sounds like a good plan! I think I may still go with the Speedway kit for the rear suspension and the front disc brake kit. They seem to be almost the same product plus they are running a free shipping promo which will save me a couple hundred bucks. I will be going with Chassis Engineering for the wishbone split/trans mount and engine mounts. Im not using the flat head so I will need the clearance for the transmission mount. I like the way you are welding the frame and suspension. Keep posting the progress!
I went with the speedway rear spring set up. The set up is different from yours but serves the same purpose. I went with their bolt in set up, but plan on adding some welds for strength. Heres a couple pics of my set up.
Enjoying the progress. I was thinking of the Chassis Engineering rear spring kit, but after looking at your 2 options I see a potential problem. The CE kit is more like the Speedway as to where the location of hangers is as the Weedetr mounts them more inboard. CE give a min. width of axle to work and the Weedetr gives more space to play with ,ie narrower location of springs on axle. Using an 97 explorer rear so need to recheck measurements. Your pics are extremely helpfull. As I said my experience is with MG and Volvo- both unibody. This seperate frame thing is a new adventure for me. My body is still mounted with engine and trans in place if you need some measurements.
I know your past this point, but I just spoke to CE and they said any axle colse to the original as far as width would work. Makes sense huh.
I have my frame painted now also, and been preparing the rear axle. I went with the explorer rear, cheap, plentiful, and can handle big power if I ever get there. Its also same width as stock axle. I hope to get the axle painted tomorrow night, and had to get some u bolts. My kit came with bolts for 3 inch axle, and as it turns out the 8.8 from the explorer is 3.25. Ordered them from rock auto and they should be here friday. What style of wheels do you plan on running? I picked up some throw away jeep wheels just to get it off the ground. Id like to run some steel wheels, just gotta find some. Sent from my GT-N8013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
From the factory, the wheel mount was almost centered in the wheel well. The well is around 13 inches wide, so I used that number to figure axle width plus wheel size and off set of the wheel. Another good axle is from the ranger, which is around 58.5 inches wide. Stick with the 8.8 thought. Sent from my GT-N8013 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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