I just purchased a 1930 coupe/roadster. It was a coupe but someone chopped the top off and made it a roadster. My question is how do you tell the difference between a model a rear differential and a early V8 differential? The car has juice brakes and the rear spring is behind the axle. I haven’t picked it up yet but very soon. My grandson is excited to get it. I will post pics when we get it home.
Here's a start, don't know if the article covers "A" rears though. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/banjo-rear-i-d-info-needed.962677/
If it’s a factory spring behind it’s not an A that’s a pretty quick one. Also the flange that bolts the torque tube to the banjo center section is shapped different on an A than a v8 rear
Just about guarantee its not an a banjo based on what youve said, measuring the bell length will tell you rough what era its from. Juice brake backing plates with dimples around the outter lip are 46-48, without dimples are prewar 39, 40 etc. Sounds like a neat ride, looking forward to pics!
You should add your general location to your profile, you can never tell when it will be useful. When you are trying to identify the brakes get some photos at the 6 o'clock position. A lot of photos of everything will be useful. Best of luck on your project. Charlie Stephens
Yup, the torque tube is scalloped and the center section of the differential is 3 13/16 not 3 1/2 like the model A differential.
I did get to measure the rear spring from ye to eye with the car sitting on the wheels. It measures 46.5 inches. The spring perches have the balls on it for the shock links.
I need to replace the front spring shackles and bushings. The front spring has reversed spring eyes. How do I spread the spring with the reverse eyes? The regular spring spreader is for the regular springs.
I don’t know if I’ve ever seen a spreader for a reverse eye. I could take the pack apart until It was just the main and then muscle off the main leaf. Change the shackles and re assemble. - there is a process for taking the pack apart safely if you don’t know that process please ask-
That would work but not sure this 73 yo can handle it. I know how I took my old model A springs off but it’s not recommended. I used my floor Jack and a chain to compress the spring to get the shackles removed.
I put several big c lamps on the pack, remove the tie bolt and replace it with a length of all thread with washers and nuts. Take the clamps off the first set of short leafs and losen it then eventually keep taking clamps off as it lose an and the pack spreads apart. When it’s all lose take the nut off and pull the main etc. Tony it back together I generally. Put the all thread back through and use the nut and washer to tighten it down and use clamps to keep it in line and a little extra saftey. With it all back together clamp the hell out of it and swap the all thread for a tie bolt. Crank it down and you’re good. I do keep a tap and die set handy because it’s hard to swap a tie bolt and all thread with out dinging a thread or two
That is the way I will take the spring apart. I would like to either add spring liner between each leaf or something to make sure the leaves can move without a lot of friction. I have heard of a product you paint on each leaf as you assemble the spring. Anyone have something that you use when rebuilding your springs?
Spring spreaders (some for normal eye and some for reversed eye): Technical - Spring spreaders | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)
Cut a couple lengths of angle iron wider than the spring and with enough length to put a hole in each end. Sandwich the eye between the angle iron, bolting it secure. Do that for each end, then you can use your non-reversed eye spreader. You may need to add some spacers on the bottom to get enough space to grab the angle iron depending on your spreader....but you get the idea, I hope Yes, there is a paintable spring slip...but I use dry graphite spray lube....it goes on wet, but drys and seems to stick reall well Good luck and work safe
Slip Plate is the paint on friction reducing product. I have been using it for some time and it’s good stuff. I started with spray cans but I now use the brush on stuff because I can get it where I want it. With the rattle cans it goes everywhere. I also have used the teflon strips and they work great and you don’t have the mess. However, they hang out there for all the world to see and it’s a little funky looking. You would maybe want to put the spring covers on it since the rear spring is so prominent. I have reverse eye springs and they are a pain in the rear to deal with. I use the same method mentioned above, taking the spring pack apart and then wrestling the main leaf. I have my own spreaders, both front a rear but I have never gotten around to working with reverse eyes. It’s on my very long “to do” list.
If you want to spend some money Posies has their “Super Slide” springs which are quite good. They have a teflon button under the end of each leaf.
For spreading reverse eye springs, I used a variation of winduptoys approach, i.e. run-of-the-mill exhaust pipe clamps (1-3/4" for the front, 2-1/4" rear) with the angle iron pieces welded to them. Works great.
I'm too thick-headed to use a camera and photograph these little devices for spreading a reverse-eye front spring, but I can describe it. Cut off 2 four-inch lengths of 2-by-4 steel channel, cut a half-inch by two-inch notch into one end close to the short wall of the channel and do it again for the second one. This gives you adapters to slip over the spring ends and use your usual spreader to do its work.
I appreciate all of this info. I have ordered new shackles for the front spring. I will try these methods of removing the old shackles. I will post pictures when I get to work on it.
Seems I’ve just dropped the axle down with floor jack and tap perchase out of axle with spring attach. Spring just comes off and then install new and tap perches back in ? Have not seen a spreader that short or thin. I’ve removed about 5 this way. Just work. Especially if perches are Seized in! Penetrating oils & heat & A BFH