Drilling for the splayed caps this evening. I used a transfer punch to find my angle and center on the holes. Then swapped to a drill bit the same size to spot drill the block. Then went to a U bit to drill for tap size. I'll set up to tap the holes later in the week.
Look at the venerable AK47 rifle, drawn up on paper, no CAD or CAM available. They were reading off machine dials. It was more of a discipline than anything.
That and constantly checking every move you make.. I put indicators on the travels of any machine I'm not familiar with.. something I learned the hard way working in plant maintenance!
My Bridgeport DRO took an Amber Heard on me a few years back and is beyond help. So now I dial everything off. The old Travel Dials worked pretty well once you got the hang of them.
These kind of processes have always amazed me! I wish I had the Patience, Skill, and equipment to do this kind of thing! Lookin' Good Brother!
I thank you all!! I wished I could still be able to do it in a timely manner, like 5 yrs ago. But I can still do it. Just takes way longer!!
I’m not a machinist, so maybe I’m ignorant. How hard would the rear main have been, and how much or little would it have added to the strength, if you had done a upgraded rear main cap? Not criticizing, just asking! Could you have added a strap to that cap? Seems I’ve seen that done too.
The rear of the block is pretty stout as it is and the area is quite busy as it is. You'll be running into what is known as diminishing returns to do much of anything else with it.
That pretty much covers it. The cost of making the rear cap and fitting it to the block plus the time. The money could be better spent somewhere else. I've seen the rear cap strapped before, but the engine had a belt drive oil pump. Which is not allowed by SEGA.
I see you have both "D" and "DX" blocks. To this point have both required the same machining operations?
Yes, both take the same operations. The D block will have 1 more that can be done with a hand drill. I'll post pics of what needs to be done later this week.
I hardly question the abilities and knowledge of someone with an expen$ive block strapped to a Bridgeport table with the head cocked off on an angle.
The 1st 2 pics show you the difference between the D and DX blocks. With the D's they had a problem with cap walk with over 22-1 compression ratio. As you can see, GM's fix was a slight counter bore. So we duplicate it.
I didn't think when I was asked before about the operations between the D and DX. The DX has one more major job to be done. The lifter bores need to be bushed. This particular ones lifter bores will be bored and reemed for a 1" bushing. Then honed for a .903 lifter.
Thanks guys!! It's a good feeling to be able to pass this along! None of my kids could care less!! I blame it on Thier mom! Lol
The Jalopy Journal
