Scored a 283!!! a few questions

THIS IS PRETTY COOL!!!

http://www.camquest.com/

 

Sorry for the missunderstanding, yup prefer solids

 

Melling's pn for the 097 cam is 22209. Problem is, I can't seem to find a vendor. There aren't a lot of folks selling solid cams for the 283 anymore. Most solid cams available these days are designed for bigger-dispalcement racing engines with high-flowing heads.

 

your kinda describing the 327 I have assembled for my 55. I used the 57 powerpack heads so
I could use the old stagger bolt cal custom valve covers. they have 305 valves hard seats and gasket matched the ports. I used a 30/30 cam cause i enjoy the sound of a soild lifter engine. I plan to convert the stock dizzy to electronic and run a carter afb. I have double humps in the 194& 202 versions,602-305 heads but I used the 57 powerpacks.Same with intakes I have the early factory 2 fours all kinds of single plane intakes but I used the edelbrock C4B. Old Wolf

 

Posted the wrong picture OldWolf

 

OK, time to add another 2 cents to this post..
Couple of points come up in the last 30 posts...
1, the 202 valves will not work on on 283 bore.
2, the over 500 lift cam will need the tops of the valve guides trimmed down on whatever heads you decide to run.
3, your cam did sound "bitchen" and worked well for your dirt track car and chevelle, BUT I doubt either one had a 3" stroke..
The stroke is the key here..same cam in a 327 will be milder and in a 350 will be just slightly "lopey".. in a 400 it will be almost unnoticeable.

This cam in a 283 or 302 will be miserable without a BUNCH of compression and steep gears...As several people have posted.
I also am voting for the power pack heads and early intake option.
Dave

 

Hate to be the potential naysayer in all this. I had a 283 block that looked great and I was all excited to build it. Took it to my machine shop and they found it cracked, inside lifter valley up to the head surface. So, I hope that does not happen for you, but get the block checked before you make all these plans. (Fortunately I had a spare block that checked out OK. I love 283's!)

 

OK, so here is where I'm at, of course $$ usually dictates in this day and age but a bit of common sense will also do. Nix on my Speedway Motors cam, so I'm searching out a suitable solid cam (newer technology grind preferred) 480ish lift, 280ish dur, and 110ish LSA, I think I have a Comp picked out. Going to use my 305 heads, they are fresh and ready to go, and I know my shorty plugs will work. My intake carb surface has already been milled to help with the hood issue and I think the 450 holley is just the ticket so I'll add a choke plate to it and use it. Gonna drill out the crank for the hb bolt, and use whichever hb will allow my pulley to line up with the short water pump and low mount alternator. The 283 was running when the guy pulled it out, and it looks pretty decent to me, so Im willing to chance that at this point. Thanks all for the great input. This may not be traditional for 1960, but then again, it aint 1960....no offense. I really enjoy all the input, and it has opened my eyes to alot of the potential problems with some of the parts I was thinking of scabbing together, thanks...still cant wait to hear it run. For those that dont know what its going in, here it is.

Anderegg Tribute Roadster to the 1955 AMBR winner.

 

PS, i really do appreciate the time everybody had spent on this, and hope it helps out others as well, thanks again

 

Here's a cracked 283 block story for ya: I bought a 283 at an auction a couple of weeks ago. REALLY nice '64 Chevy II motor that was all there. It was sitting on a steel shelf with a bunch of junk parts, and the scrappers that bought the "leftovers" when they sold the engines proceeded to shove my engine off the top shelf (5ft or so) onto the concrete floor. Crushed the valve covers (the main reason I bought it) bent the pan and flywheel, and BROKE THE CORNER OFF THE BLOCK! I was pissed. But it worked out OK...the auction company ate the $30 I paid, and let me haul it off anyway.

Anderegg, I'd strip the 305 heads and use the parts in a set of PP's. That car deserves a 283 that looks like a 283. Otherwise it's just another SBC, but with fewer cu. You COULD use the 283 as trading material for a 350...

 

Sounds like a nice combo. I'm with you on head choice...sometimes the right look is more important than all-out power. As long as you use parts that work together, it's not a liability. Sure your 327 would run better with the DH heads, but a the stagger-bolt heads with the bigger valves aren't gonna give up much on a set of iron 305 heads and look 'right' for a '55.

 

Get an edelbrock C4B, then run a holley 600 vac sec.

I have a 62-66 283 in the garage now for a future motor, I have the 896 pp heads and a edelbrock C3b manifold.

More info on working these heads would be nice....


Good luck

 

GM 140 off road cam in a 302 Chevy:

http://youtu.be/iXK-lTkRXBY

Comp Cams Nostalgia plus 30/30 :

http://youtu.be/CcC3U-U4OQs

 

hey guys im also building a 283 with 305 heads,but i dont witch head gasket i use.

 

I had just planed on using the standard sbc fel-pro gasket

 

Dump the "Solid Flat Tappet Cam" and replace with a Hydraulic Roller Cam.
You'll be more thankful than you will ever realize......

 

I found a 283 that I'm thinking about buying for my shoebox project.I'd like to run a tri-power for looks and a somewhat lumpy cam.I'm not looking to race or do burn outs just a good sounding tail dragger so I don't need big HP.Oh yea,it'll probably have a 700 r4 in it.Any suggestions on a cam?Sorry to hi jack but while everyone's talking 283s...

 

ANDEREGG,

Don't forget about Crower Cams.

They offer a nice solid cam with specs that may border on the radical side but would give you a sweet sounding 283 with slight bottom end sacrifice.

.458 int / .468 exh lift.
230 int / 236 exh duration at .050
112 lobe center -------- 2000 - 6000 power range w/ 6500 redline.
part# 00320
Just another one to confuse matters more. Good luck and I'm sure your car will run fine with whatever combo you end up deciding on. Sometimes splitting hairs on specs will drive you batty!

Eddie

 

Anyone?

 

Summit #1102 Cam - If you are going to run tri power - don't get a cam that will provide low vacuum. It won't idle.

 

56KUSTOM,

Lunati has a camshaft that might also fit your needs. If your tri-power requires significant vacuum as Tudor mentions above, then this Lunati cam may be a good choice. You haven't stated that a solid cam is required or that your willing to use a stall type torque converter, but you are wanting a "cammy" idle. Anyway Lunati Voodoo P/N 60102 is a hyd. flat tappet. 1400-5800 rpm range. Duration at .050 is 219 int and 227 exh. lift is .468 int and .489 exh with a 112 lobe separation. I don't believe this cam requires a hi stall converter or big rear gear. Does have mild-like specs but in a 283 it may give the kind of idle/sound your looking for. You can call Lunati and pick their brain. If you go much bigger than this one you may need stall conv and gears -----then there is the tri-power issue. I don't know why the tri-power is more vacuum sensitive than a 4 bbl but as much as I like tri-power I have zero knowledge of 'em.
Good luck with your project!

Eddie

 

THESE CAMS ARE THE BOMB!!!!
I ran the 60101 cam in my hobby stock 355 sbc, great vacuum, pulls like a mutha, and would easily turn 6800 rpm with z28 springs and no valve float. Definately sounds much better than a stock cam, but only a bit of lope and no probs with auto trans. If I were to do another hobby stock again I was going to try the 60102 cam.

 

Ditto on the cam...yo will need the bolt action tranny for sure.

 

PS....I am thinking that the Rochester 2 barrel has an idle circuit that is controlled by engine vacuum kinda similar to a quadra jet, so that is probably why they are vac sensitive....I may be mistaken though....I know my QJs HATE big lopey cams.

 

Never heard that term before....please explain for us knuckleheads in the audience...

and thats advertised duration. @.050" is, I 255 E 265. I ran that cam in my 355 with flat tops and 305 heads (figured about 10.5:1 compression, and 4412 carb, worked great. Tried to run it in a stock dish pistoned 305, sounded great at idle, but wouldnt rev over 4000 rpm, was told too much overlap for the 305s low compression. Btw, put the Voodoo 60101 in the 305, and won the next 3 races, in a 305 cid class.

 

This is the 305 with the Speedway Motors solid cam, before I replaced it with the Lunati Voodoo

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I think that the '65 2 barrel 283 heads that your motor might have has the same casting symbol as the earlier "power pak" heads...the rectangle with the little triangle on top...I would really give a lot of thought to running late model 305 heads on that car...I would keep it as period looking as possible...I would just run the heads that are on that sucker...my .02

 

Just read this entire thread and would like to add;

Tribute never even suggested that his 283 came with heads. The 305 heads and the 2.02 camel humps are what he has on hand.

2.02 valves will clear a 3 7/8" bore, been there.

True about the bolt holes in the ends of the heads killing the look of the motor, but on that car opening the hood might kill the look of the car. It is/was a show car after all. And; the little motor would probably run best with the smaller valves/ports/combustion chambers of the 305.

That said, the only thing killing his initial combination of big valves/hot cam/3.73 gears/T-5/light car is really the flat-tops. A set of pop-ups would make that sucker into something that would make your heart race. Admittedly it is a bit much duration though, and it sounds like the cam had not been bought yet. But all in all, with out tearing into the short block the combo he is hitting on most recently (305 heads) sounds like the best bang for the buck.

 

Thanks for the input guys!

 

A "bolt action" is a manual transmission.... like a bolt action rifle.