Technical Sealing or painting a New Model A wood kit

Looking at good original model A interior wood pieces they had a black finish, was it a stain or paint? What do most people coat then with today? Bob

 

I used Thompson

 

I am not sure what they used back in the day, but I painted mine with some sort of black wood paint.

 

nothing protects wood better than paint.

 

Just unpacked the Classic Wood kit after having it sitting on the floor here in the office for two years. WOW, is that nice stuff, guess I'll fit everything and gloss black it at some time. Bob

 

I used Butchers wax.Some call it Boston polish.Wipe it on let it sit as per directions wipe it off.Leaves a nice scheen and water proofs.Scotch bright or steel wool first and break all sharp edges.If it starts to wear just reapply.

 

Semi-gloss polyurethane, marine grade.

 

I am a carpenter by trade. I would use a spar varnish or urethane on it before install, or at least do the surfaces that mate to metal that you will never see again. just my two cents

 

Two coats of polyurethane on all surfaces... After test fitting, but before final installation.

 

that's what i did on my `28 Tudor and it's been fine for 21 years

 

Knowing what little I do of Mr Ford, the wood probably got painted in the same vat the body was dipped in.

 

I put 2 coats of stain on mine. Very happy with the results.

 

a mixture of Turpentine and Linseed oil, works great.

 

I used boiled linseed oil mixed with tung oil give a really nice finish

 

2 coats of Danish walnut stain and Spar varnish. Done just in time to cover it all up with a headliner.....

 

I've been working on my wood kit in my coupe and I want to seal it and protect it from water.

So, I'd like to bump this into view.

At first, I was thinking about using walnut oil because it soaks in deep and hardens the wood but now I am not sure because I've read contradicting info.

I know anything is better than nothing but this is a garaged car, now, haha, so mostly, I just want the wood that's likely to have water trapped (like the windows) to be protected as best as possible.

 

Paul, only some components of the Model A were dipped, Model A bodies were spray painted.

 

I think your choices are driven on what you want for a result. For a lot of wood that's not intended to be show off stuff I use boiled linseed oil cut 50 / 50 with mineral spirits so it penetrates. It's low gloss and will repel some water and can be touched up that blends well. However it's not waterproof. If you want waterproof you need to look at marine products.

 

That's what I did. It's a very traditional method of preserving wood that is very effective.

 

I've done this. Spar varnish thinned down to the consistency of water. Apply as much as the wood will take, let it cure then coat it with paint or varnish. The wood fibers get saturated and incased with the spar varnish, making the wood tougher, while sealing it. It's a good way to help in preventing moisture intrusion and rot.

 

How about pu bed wood exposed to the elements on a day to day basis?

 

After hearing of some of the other coatings Henry Ford used, the original was likely the least costly solution of tar/ and thinner they could find.

 

You made very good points.

I seem to still treat things like I live in a wet/humid climate still. So, the result I realistically want is some decent protection for longevity.

The wood will never see elements like the original set.

 

Some good suggestions on this. I used a 50/50 mix of tung oil (not tung oil finish) and turpentine.....apply heavy, let soak in, then wipe off excess. Gives a nice hand rubbed finish. Top coated with Minwax Wipe-On Poly Satin - hand Rubbed Polyurethane. Gives a really nice finish with moisture protection.

 

I agree, sealing on all sides totally prevents moisture from entering, keeping the wood stable.

 

Actually, I believe the opposite. Not an expert, but I learn from my Finnish neighbor, who is a master. He built his log home and every stick of furniture in it, and he claims the best way to destroy wood is to seal it on all sides. He always uses an oil to preserve, and varnish or urethane on the surface that it is necessary, like counter tops etc. I like the 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine on interior wood myself. Same thing on wood car wheels. Keeps moisture out, yet allows the wood to breath. My 2cents ,look under an old dining room table, its finished on top, and wood on the underneath side, perhaps oiled when new

 

Joe, last night I ordered some pure tung oil after reading and then watching a couple great YouTube vids.

I've never messed with the stuff and the process sounds interesting. I'm not the most patient person, so the waiting between applications will be good practice for me. Haha.

One gentleman on YT explained that he uses 50/50 in the beginning and then after that first round of application, he applies straight tung oil. I think that's what I'll try to start.



I'm going to use some scrap to see how deep the mix penetrates, too.

 

I talked with a wooden boat restorer and he uses a clear 2-part epoxy on all of the wood so I used the same to coat every piece wood in my ‘31 Pontiac to preserve it and to hopefully limit the expansion and contraction of the wood.
I worked in a furniture wood shop for 45 years and one of the most important things I have learned is that wood must be finished the same on all sides or it will warp from moisture being absorbed or released at different rates on opposite sides.

 

Yeah Brent, most use the 50/50 as the initial coat for getting it down deep into the wood fibers.....and the waiting between coats is a pain but the results will be worth it. It's gonna look killer.

 

I would use an oil like tung or linseed. Just wipe the excess. That should seal it up and resist water.