So i got her rolling again. Ended up having to take almost 4 quarts out after it was all said and done... it goes into gear, shifts okay. After it warmed up it started to shift a little "lazier". While cruising, around 25 to 30 mph, it goes back and forth between 2nd and 3rd. Now what?? PS.. the reason it had so much fluid was because I kept adding during the time it wasn't going into gear. Back to normal level now...
Here's a link to an old thread where someone successfully troubleshoots a th350 modulator: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...modulator-adjustment-anybody-know-how.116840/ (If your having problems with a HAMB "moderator", just give up. You're screwed) It doesn't sound like the governor to me. That should either work or not. Is it behaving in any way consistently? If it woks ok when cold, then malfunctions when it warms up, it could be the fluid getting by some internal seals when it thins out. If that's it, then it should do this consistently. Internal seals harden with age. If any auto trans hasn't been rebuilt in a long time, the rubber seals inside get brittle, an no longer properly seal. Dropping the trans and messing with it can mess it up inside, and cause the old seals to malfunction (ask me how I know)
Thanks! Read the thread. I will check the vacuum line and make sure it's all good. Maybe replace the mod. I did drop it and mess with it. Now i wish i hadn't.
What is your history with this trans? Maybe it was running on some Trans X or something like that in the fluid that yow have now flushed out of it.
I'd be pulling the trans out and double checking that the converter is all the way seated into the pump. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Make sure the flex plate is on the right way. Indentations for the three converter bolts should be out towards tranny,. If the indentation face the motor the converter gets pulled almost out of pump gears and can slip out after some use. There would be only about 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch between converter and flex plate when converter bolts are out and converter pushed back into tranny all the way. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I kinda doubt that the o/p took the flex plate off and flipped it around when he took the trans out to change the seals. I know this for sure now, because he said he already has it moving around again..(See post #32)
He took the tranny out because flex plate was broken . Then while had tranny out he thought he change pump seal and taleshaft seal. He said worked with the motor wound up. So I would check flex plate to make sure he is not ruining the pump gears by engagement issues. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
He took the tranny out because flex plate was broken. He change seals while he had the tranny out for the flex plate change. I would check the flex plate to make sure he isn't ruining the pump with engagement issues. Might be why it was suddenly over full. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The converter clearance if everything is right should be 1/8inch to 3/16 inch between flex plate and converter when unbolted and push into tranny. If that checks out, I'd drop the pan and change filter. If converter has a drain plug from being flushed, I'd pull that and drain converter. U can flush tranny by taking cooling line loose pouring fresh fluid down fill tube while car is running and catching old fluid in a bucket from cooling line. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
From experience if the pump was not properly seated the trans and engine block will not mate when tightening the trans bolts down, while trying to pull the trans to the block by tightening the bolts you will hear a "hummm, what was that noise" as the pump cracks followed by trans fluid all over the floor when engine is started.
I've been running this same trans since I built the truck around 2001. While collecting parts I scored the trans from my buddy's dad who had purchased it 2 years prior from Checker's. It's a B&M unit. Around 2007 or 8, it suffered a broken sprag... it was rebuilt at that time... and had been working fine since. Until this...
I double checked this on Sunday. I removed the three T/C bolts and made sure it was engaging to the pump... it was.
Not trying to beat a dead horse , but if with the converter bolts out and converter push all the way back into the tranny there should be clearance between flex plate and converter, that says u have the converter in all the way, but if there is more than 3/16 of a inch u can pull the converter out of the pump when bolting converter up. The flex plate has to be on with the converter bolt indentations out toward tranny. I would of check front pump and converter bushing if the flex plate was cracked. U said u dump the fluid out. Did u pull the pan or dump it out of the tail housing. Putting it on end might of knocked crap in pan float around and plugged filter. So change filter and clean pan. If there is alot of metal in the pan check front pump. Things to check first. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The flexplate is installed correctly..indentions out.. The TC is seated right in the pump... it landed on the 'tangs'. Clearance is good. I'm sure the front pump isn't cracked as no fluid has dumped out in that area like it would if it were. I pulled the pan on Sunday and replaced the filter...and cleaned the pan. There was some 'metal flake' look to the fluid.
I stand corrected on the initial issue..I had forgotten that. Still, it's kinda hard to put a Chevy flex on backwards and not notice anything wrong. I had heard of it in folklore, but have not personally ever seen it . Have you?
Some Metal in the bottom of the pan is ok ,bushings and Thrust washer wear and some clutch material is ok. But if the fluid is shinny metallic some things wrong. Usually pump. Normal wear will usually settle to the bottom of the pan after being filtered out. But if fluid is metallic you are adding metal to fluid after filter. Did the filter change any thing. Did u use sealant around front seal. To much sealant can go into drain back hole. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The filter didn't change anything. No sealant was used. I came home from work today. Went out to the garage to fire her up and see what would happen. Back to nada again... Park and five neutrals. Frustrating. I guess it's time to come back out with it.
As far as the metallic fluid. To me it didn't seem abnormal compared to what we usually see. Average wear. Who knows...
How much fluid did you get out of it when you took it out compared to what you have put back into it? You say you have park so guessing the slip yoke is not slipping. Just thinking if you took it out...replaced the front seal and some more outside seals put it back in and it dose not work now I would re check the linkage if that is not it then see if I had fluid pumping out a cooler line if not I would suspect the tangs on the pump got knocked off.
Point it at something really expensive start it put in gear and get out,if your lucks like mine it will suddenly work perfect.haha. After it runs a bit and warms up does start work. Then after it sits and cools down nothing. ? Sticky pressure valve converter or pump. Could drop valve body and clean. Need to check line pressure if could get a gage. 1/8 pipe plug just infront of modulator. Just wonder tipping up with old fluid got trash in something.there is a pump screen under valve body if they didn't delete. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Automatic front pumps are a pain, and the TH350s might just be the worst. The priming valve, BTW was only used on warranty pumps, just like the dual pattern cases. There was, IIRC, 3 different pump rotor thicknesses and pump halves to go with them. The engagement of the T/C drive in the inner rotor was always marginal and I've seen lots with trashed inner rotor engagement lugs from not enough engagement and more that had both leading edges smeared badly. These rotors are sintered metal and the quality is questionable on many, including GM ones. If you are taking out a 350 and you see a flat washer BETWEEN the T/C and the drive plate at each of the 3 bolt locations it was there to shim the convertor back to get adequate pump engagement. I've seen lots with 2 washers. If you do this, make sure the washers are all the same thickness, because they vary a lot. Another common problem is the thrust bearing goes out in the engine and the crank walks aback and forth, pulling the pump out of engagement depending on where the thrust main is worn etc. Watch the crank damper and rev the engine up and down a dozen times or so and look for movement. A timing light can help spot movement. Just random crap from years ago...
Had one with stock pan that they used a floor jack to put in and pushed the pan against the screen. Sent from my Prime10ES using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
years ago, a friend drove his nova to my shop with shifting issues, it had been doing it for a while. we dropped the pan, bolts and balls fell out. I told him it was time for a rebuild, but he wanted to try it. we put it all back, and the damn thing worked till he got tboned years later. it was a th350. I have no idea how it worked at all with the valve body hanging down. I never got that lucky.
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