Projects The "All Business Coop" 1930 Model A

There as many ways to goes with a chop, but some cars, less chop is not a bad thing, and you can chop it to much.

But seven inch out of the roof is a lot. Is it comfortable to drive at all?



I agree @Hot Rod 50 did good!

 

Started tacking the top back on today.

 

Lookin good! After re assessing my build and getting it on the road, I plan to chop it. I found the 'perfect chop' to be a 3.88 inch chop; which rounds off to 4ish...
This is exactly what I want my ride to look like! Good job, and I want to see more.

 

Thanks. I'm really liking 4". I have a good amount of room too. Pedals all in the stock location should work good and I have about and inch over my head to the wood.

 

More slicing and dicing.

 

Great work. Keep the updates coming.

 

Subscribed.. HRP

 

Man looking good.

 

looks great, I was hoping you were going to cut 5" out but I have to say, 4" looks great! My tudor is cut 4"

 

Ok, I'm back on the coupe after body working the ghia all summer. We took it to my buddies shop that is starting a co2 ice blasting company. We blasted everything. It didn't quite get all the rust off but it looks good and clean now.

So it's back in my shop and I got it up on stands and pulled the drums off. They're headed to the machine shop to get the studs cut out so I can put longer studs in for the steel wheels. The brakes actually work pretty well and the pads look like they've been re-lined not too long ago. I'll clean it all up and install my flathead Teds kit and rock and roll.


I was waiting on an ansen single down draft intake and header from reds but they are not in stock and no telling when they will be. SO, I decided to stick the stock stuff back on after cleaning it up, get it running and driving. Check the motor out and then get a high comp head and down draft intake and header later.

 

Looking good. What high compression head do you plan on running??

 

I'm not real picky. I need to do some research. I'm not actually sure if they have different compression ratios or if most are the same. I know stock is 5:1, so how much over that I go depends on how it runs. Most likely I will try to pair it with the 94 I already have.

 

Got into the brakes today. I had noticed that my E brake actuator arm was missing. I wasn't going to stress it though. As I got the hubs of I noticed that my brake arm was really loose. So I tore into my spare chassis with the intent of just using the backing plate since the arm is tight. As I was looking I noticed the e brake lever was there. After some heat and coercion of my BFH the drums came off and boom! All the e brake hardware. They will need re-lined but that's cool.

 

Took a few minutes today and got her running. After I figured out my starter conundrum. Fed it some fuel and spark and it fired right up. Now to get the brakes done so I can putt around the block and see if it's got any power.

Oh. I wasn't working the advance lever as I was revving it up. Forgot.

Little video

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg209/bantam470/29 ford/B899940F-3FF2-4E3A-9865-5CB76639D264_zps54ns4ab5.mp4

 

Congrats! Just in time to do some donuts in the snow if it comes, right?

 

Hey guys. Well there's been a direction change. a guy down south offered me to much for the banger so I pulled it today in favor of my merc and 35 transmission. The plan for now is, get the merc/ trans mounted and figure the pedals out. I am going to give the mechanicals a try unless I come across the juice stuff while I'm working on it. Also, if a flatty comes available localy that runs for a decent price I may end up going that route. So a pretty basic Av8 swap. Keeping the A steering, pedals, brakes and suspension. I know there are little things such as wish bone mounting and such but I'll figure it out.

Damn these things come apart quick. Took me about 45 mins to get it out.

 

Well the banger is gone and the merc is mocked up. I didn't realize HOW tight it is with a V8 motor between the rails. A couple questions, how much of the front crossmember can I trim for the pulley? The merc is a two belt with the long water pumps. Will or can I switch to the 8rt pumps and one belt with the fan on the genny? And will the belt hit the dizzy with the shorter pump?

Here's how things look so far.

 

Say wha?

 

what part of Washington State did this car come from?

 

You'd have to ask A rodder. That's his car. Mines a Texas car I found in Denver.

 

Little more mock up today. It's tight but I'll make it work. I'll need to get the strap on generator mount intake and run the fan on the generator for a 1 belt setup. If the belt doesn't hit the dizzy I'll be good. I'm gonna dimple the A steering box and take a little off the fire wall in the middle and it should just fit. Also going to trim the front crossmember where the pully rubs and shave the front pully off.

Now it's really starting to look like a hot rod

 

Looking pretty good! Keep at it.

 

Took a minute and clearanced the fire wall and steering tube. Gonna need a little more but here's what I did and it fits good now. Gonna order some truck pumps and front motor mounts and hunt down an intake and a fan/gen combo. I have one spotted off of a 35 ford truck. It's out in the field I just gotta make sure it's ok to take it.

I think I can run this on a strap mount and make it work.


Cleared out the front crossmember a little before I ran out of discs.


And the cut I made in the steering tube. I'm not sure it will give me enough room so that it's not touching.

 

So a couple weeks ago I ran to Lawton ok and grabbed a 52-53 eab flathead. I was told the main and rod bearings have been replaced. Looks to be the case and its standard bore. I spent the last two weeks battling a broken stud. I eventually had to heli coil it. I tried every trick in the book. It has a couple issues but I think it will run ok. The plan is to get everything built and mounted and finish the chop and drive it a summer or two while I'm building the merc.

Had to strip the orange paint, heads and intake are black. I'll finish it up after everything is built. Got a genie with pully mounted fan. 8rt pumps and motor mounts from Dennis carpenter.

I really need to get better with my photography.

 

Does the '35 ford Pickup, of which you speak, have interior window garnish moldings.
I have a friend who needs them.. are they available?

 

I'll look today. I still haven't gotten ahold of the farmer to make sure it's ok to take anything off of it. I might try to haul the whole thing in. I'll let you know.

 

Wow, a lot like my build! Keep up the good work there.

You are going to have to lose the battery box and come up with a solution for pedals now. My thread is packed with pics of what I ended up doing. Link is in my sig if you want some ideas. I just compiled what I saw other people doing.

What engine mounts are those? I am not really liking the ones I got from macs.

And yea, things seem to be tighter than what people make them out to be. When you lined up your steering box with the engine, you have to remember that you still have heads to but on top of the cylinders, and they will protrude about a half inch further into the column. That being said, I just moved my box down 3/4 of and inch and back a half of an inch I believe. I plan to just heat up and pound in the column to get the necessary clearance when the time comes. People also say that we will have to cut up and mod the cowl as well, just FYI.

Hopefully I can catch up to you body wise soon.

 

Your block looks low to me, did you do your mockups hooked up to the driveline or just sitting in there.

I ask because I'm fighting with my manifold angle currently and my mounts are now set about 2-1/8" above the rail to compensate. BUT I'm not doing a straight AV8, I've made a rats' nest of angles and heights to fight with (32" rear tires, 3" kick, dropped front cross, reverse eye spring, 4" drop axle on 29" snow tires up front for @ 1° frame rake). So I'm pretty curious to see how yours is fitting.

 

Cool thanks Ben. Il go check it out. And yea I stabbed the motor in last night and I had to pull the seething out to get it centered then I'll try to get it back in after the motors mounted correctly. I think it can work but it will be damn tight. As far as the firewall I will probably run an inline pump with a tank behind the seat and the battery in the trunk. I'm also going to try to use the stock pedals. My idea is a piece of round stock sized for the pedals mounted off the frame to put them in the stock location. The clutch is going to be tricky though.

 

Oh and the motor mounts are Dennis carpenter kit 78-6038-k $30 for two.