Projects The Levee Leveler (A Single Seat Racer Circa 1934)

Damn, I never should have looked at this thread! Another great idea for a project I'll want now! Hey, thanks for the wonderful build thread.

 

Oh Mike swoon!!! You know I don't care for banger's but I really really like this one in the car. Perfect use for one besides a tractor or a saw mill! Everything looks killer too. How did I miss the Wico???

Nice job buddy!

 

Did some recon last night for you. The competition looks strong. Though I see you cleverly slowed him down by setting a time bomb in the roadsters motor.

Very clever that cactus guy.

 

Fricken awesome Mike! Your project is keeping me in the garage working on mine, thank you!!
Hey, how do you keep the garage so organized...mine looks like a bomb went off in it.
Johnny
(Say hi to bugsy for me)

 

Thanks pal! I hope it's faster than my tractor? We know it's going to be faster than James' coupe sitting in the shop?

Thanks Johnny! I've been trying to be diligent about putting everything away after a night of work. It is a battle for sure as I am used to an organized mess, ha!

It will be nice to have someone to "race!" I hope I finish mine before he wears his out and sells it off, haha!

 

Great job man! Engine looks ace!

 

Thanks @skaterman!


On to the brakes! I had already put internals in the brakes so it was just a matter of figuring out how to actuate them. I bought this great big parking brake lever years ago for this purpose then finally decided how to set it up.

I made these sleeves to mount to the frame and a simple rod to go through out of 5/8" stock as that was the size of the hole already in the lever.




I had to heat and twist the tab on the lever a touch to coincide with the angle of the brake rods. I had a couple of 'A' brake rods in the pile so I shortened and bent them to suit.



Drilled some holes in the frame in what seems like a good spot(?)



And bolted it up to try it out. Works a treat! (one side anyway) Now on to the starboard side.

 

I made a tab for the other side and welded it up.




Bent another rod and drilled them both for pins.



If I can remember my YouTube password I will try to post a video of it in action.

 

Henry Ford just paid me to read through this... my god man everything you touch is so sanitary! That's the only word my feeble mind can come up with to describe something so nice!! If my hunk-o-junk comes out half this nice I'll be surprised!

 

Ha! Thanks man. I appreciate it! Excited about your new project too! We need a few more in the area to fill out the field .

 

I feel like I'm cheating with my 6 cylinder.... might have to find a banger.

 

Here are a couple of vids...

 

really enjoying you project! hope you consider using a key way on the brake actuating shaft / lever arm.
tom

 

Use what you've got man!

Thanks Tom! Currently I have a detent drilled to catch the set screw but what you suggest is probably a smarter option! I should probably break out the files and "machine" some broaches huh?!

I guess I could always just drill through and pin it as well which may be more in keeping with the "home/farm built" aesthetic I'm after. Not junky but workman-like solutions.

 

I'm curious how far the rear would have to compress before the tt would hit the brake cross shaft. Looks like it's got plenty of room though.

Is the brake shaft just set to spin inside the bigger pipe or is there a bearing? A grease zerk in the sleeve?

 

Hi ya Tim! At rest there is about 1-1/2" between the cross shaft and TT. I expected to have to put a bend in the shaft like a stock 'A' brake cross shaft for clearance but it does not look like it will be necessary. I'll know more later when the (minimal) weight of the body, fuel tank, and driver are on it.

Plans are for zerks in the end "bushings" (though probably unnecessary since the greasing on assembly is all it will probably ever require.) There really is not that much movement in the mechanism to actuate the brake arms so I don't see too much wear in their future especially given the relatively (to a licensed street car) low usage. Besides the old timers say you only used the brakes at the end of the race anyway, ha!

 

I wonder if you couldn't just lube it with graphite when you assemble it and call it good. Should keep it moving and won't grab dirt.

Though on a zerk note if you put some white lithium grease in there it should keep it from rusting with all the humidity in the summer and the puddles you'll be going thew and it seems like stuff doesn't seem to stick to that much at all

I'm thinking more about binding or rusting together and it becoming less smooth feeling more than any sort of wear from usage.

 

It should be fairly well protected from the bottom by the belly pan and the top by the seat so I'm not too terribly worried about it getting compromised. I think a stock 'A' setup is probably more exposed to the elements than this will be. Plus, I don't plan on using the brakes much...

 

I plan on just using a SBC head connected to a chain for stopping power.

 

Probably the only scenario where a cast iron head will outperform an aluminum head.

 

I think adjustable clevis ends on the brake rods would be a better idea than the bent ends. Bob

 

Maybe?
I based my decision on column shift 3-speed rods after seeing some in my pile. As far as adjustability...I'll just pull harder .

 

The next step up for critique is the steering system . Again taking cues from historical examples I set my sights on making a center steer box out of a model A box that I had on hand.
A good friend of mine has this old dirt track racing T. I love how crude everything is on it and the feeling it evokes.

I had an old 'A'steering box and grabbed another snout from my pal to try to implement my plan. I used my bench grinder to "machine" the snout to fit into the pipe I am using for the sector extension.

I cut a flange to bolt to the existing box rather than welding it on thinking I could shim as necessary to remedy any misalignment should that occur. I cut some wood brackets to mock everything in place and began to fill in the blanks.


I trimmed the excess off the extra snout.

 

Again I used the bench grinder to "turn" down the ends of two sectors to press fit into the extension pipe...


Here they are pressed in and ready to weld (after I stick everything together one more time.)

 

Looks like your pretty handy with a bench grinder! Probably easier than figuring out how you'd chuck it up in a lathe with the awkward shape. Lookin good

 

View attachment 3174996 Convinced that everything was copacetic I proceeded with the dirty worms.


I then finalized my design for the brackets (#sorrykevin) and drilled them to bolt to the frame.


I cut some bracing for the inside and a plate for the top of the frame and bolted it up as well.


I got these shaft collars at the industrial supply and fit them to the pipe. (I replaced the cap screws with extension tubes and hex bolts but forgot to take a pic.)

Here they are tacked then I took them to the bench to weld up solid.

 

Forgot a pic...


And here is everything back together as of last night.

 

Yeah my lathe is not really set up just yet so the grinder it is (farm boy style!) It actually worked pretty well. And thanks!

 

Nice!
That steering support bracket is getting fancy.
Diggin' the three square head bolts on the tie rod end bracket being clocked!

 

Too much Fun! Looks great.