Hi! Ok, embarrassing. Was troubleshooting my wiring Sunday and after not finding the problem I accidentally left the ignition on burned up the coil. I was standing out there still and heard the popping and saw the smoke start pouring out. Disconnect everything quick (snips) l so my question, does it matter what coil I buy? This one didn’t really have any markings. Just a black coil. Completely original engine, upgraded to 12v w 3 wire alternator (previous owner). what do I check in the distributor other than filing the points. thanks guys. And feel free to roast me if you want. Red
Per Bubba's (RIP) advice I run a Bosch blue coil on my 8ba converted to 12 volts with one of his Chevy distributors.
How would I tell if it is a ballast resistor? Or HEI? My knowledge is 1 year if automotive 30some years ago and picking things up here and there. I’ve made a couple sets of custom plug wires, replaced the coils in two modern vehicles. but weirdly enough never seen inside a distributor cap. red
Oh, where in the wiring would the resistor show up? I have something on my fender that has 4 wires attached to it. But other than that I don’t think I have one.
The unit with the 4 wires on it is likely the starter solenoid. Ballast resistor is usually mounted on the firewall. Filing the points may not be enough, I would buy new ones Good luck and keep us posted
Any universal 12 volt coil from your friendly neighborhood parts store. You can eliminate the ballast resistor by buying a coil with an internal resistor. With external resistor - hot wire from the ign switch goes on one end of the resistor and wire to the coil on the other end then to the distributor. Internal resistor - hot wire direct to the coil. On a 12 volt system, the hot wire goes to the + side of the coil. the distributor is the ground. ( - ) Post a picture here, please, so we can confirm.
Hi guys, I have a wire from under the dash, I think wired to the starter button or maybe the fuse panel. Can’t remember even though I wired it. Then another wire goes from there to the bottom of the distributor. Looks like this
Regarding points I know I can find a video in replacing them but are they universal do I need to find a way to id the distributor
Shoot. Cool says “external resistor” but you all see how the wires are. Could there be a resistor somewhere in my new fuse panel (rebel 9+3 kit).
Not likely - Take a look at the picture in post #8 above. The resistor is a relatively large device and produces a lot of heat - hence the ceramic case around the resistive element. Also - Take a good look at the condition of the points in the resistor - There is a strong chance that the contacts are burned. Russ
I will look again but couldn’t find the resistor before. I swear guys. Can a system run without it? I can’t figure out how to remove the rotor, which Napa suggested I replace. But I did get the point off. They say fd808ixv on em which I guess is a model. But to my untrained eye they look ok. They were burned together. Sorry guys I do know someone local I can ask for help, but im trying to avoid my brother, it’s Our car, from knowing since it’s embarrassing the rotor says fa67, I don’t mind spending the money If I should replace it too. But again, I couldn’t see a screw to remove it
The rotor should pull straight up and out. You will have to set the points gap with feeler gauges, or use a dwell meter. Both ways require the specs needed to set and adjust. Curious. What engine is it? Also, if points and a coil, it should require a ballast resistor if 12 volts. Well, assuming you have a 1.5 ohm coil.
Yes, the engine will run {for a while} with out a resistor {NOTE: We are still talking about an ignition coil with a "USE EXTERNAL RESISTOR" warning}. The "EXTERNAL RESISTOR" limits the current through the ignition points and the ignition coil. Without this resistor, both will burn up due to the high current {high current causes more heat}. Russ
Look on the inside of the firewall in the passenger compartment for the resistor. It may be behind the dash somewhere.
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