What's all this noise I hear? The September banger meet, that's what!

Hello bangers- anyone running a 6.4 to 1 winfield(or equiv.) with a mallory dist? Just wandering what your baseline timing is set at. I think I have mine dialed but want to get some opinions.

Thanks- E

 

I will see if I can hook up with Curt and get some more pics. I think I took some of it at a local show last year. I am pretty sure it is on an A chassis. Thats how I met up with him. The chassis was sitting outside in the driveway and I noticed the front axle out front. So I stopped and talked to him about it. He was very helpful and gave me a lot of info and even offered to let me borrow all of his magazines to read about the banger stuff.

So I got my T touring and want to stick it on an A chassis. I think I might have to use the T chassis for a T-speedster.

Scott

 

Simon!

Absolutley super photos!!!

 

Hey there fellow FAST member! HA! Welcome to the HAMB!

 

If you want to know about Banger Basics theres only one link needed....

http://1149.ca/banger/Fundamentals.pdf

 

Guys..I can't thank you enough for the great replies! I've bookmarked the suggested sites and will print the pages for quick access. A full fendered 32 roadster with a banger,T5 and quick change is what I'm planning. Since I started building hot rods in the 50's traditional won't be a problem. Man this HAMB site is something else! Bill

 

Sorry I misspoke on my order please. Change it to 2 - XXL and 1 - L.

 

Bill Van Dyke -1 -XL

 

I think mine sits at about 8 degrees BTDC at tickover, using a Brierley-grind Winfield SU-1R cam.

 

Cheers Simon - I guessed you'd be the fella that would know!

 

Thanks Artiki!

 

ENBLOC thanks for posting the link to the fundamentals of modifying engines. This is great. Who is the author and where can I find more articles like this? I am new to bangers with my touring build, you guys are a big help. Thanks.

 

The fundamentals article was one of three that were scanned and then posted on the net.
The fundamentals article was by Charlie Yapp and pirated from an old issue of Secrets Of Speed.

Heres the other two.

http://1149.ca/banger/resurrecting.pdf

A Mike Bishop article from an old issue of American rodder.

http://1149.ca/banger/TheHal.pdf

An old 50's article on building a DOHC HAL.

 

There are two places you can get newsletters / publications about hopping up a banger.

Secrets of speed is here:
http://www.secretsofspeed.com/

And

Ford A Speed Technology (F.A.S.T.) is here:
http://www.hotforhotfours.com/index.html

Both have good informitive articles.

.

 

You might be able to buy a Donavan crank for $2500.00 cost, but they won't sell you one. I have tried, NO DICE, they will not do it.--TV

 

Ya Tom, I just about lost my fingers poking around asking those questions too.

 

Crankshaft? $2500? Moldex!!

 

Bluto,
As I have no experiance with billet cranks, is Moldex the only billet crank house you would use or does Scat and others make the same quality product?

Do you know if Moldex has the specs for making the 5 main Model A or B crank?

The people that I have talked to around here (So Cal, not the HAMB)are very tight lipped about this subject.

 

I am sorry to say I would not use Scat TOO many stories

Three main is fine as long as the radii are large.

I ran a 4 main pre-war BMW 122 inch 6 crank 6500 rpm on the same set of used mains since 1983 very very hard and it's still out there racing on the same set.And honest you could move the main cas with your thumbs! Trick was oil flow/temp/pressure

I gotta get my B out and apart to say just how big the mains could go.

That will happen this month I hope. If I can stay outta the hospital

People just don't generally understand how strong large radii make a crank. I your grinder has bumped or reduced the radius throw the crank away or give it to a stock motor guy. One scratch is the kiss of death

The trick is to get enough oil flow to create a wedge that the crank floats on. All pressure fed engines do this but you need enought fresh clean warm oil so that the crank and block move together. Everything is flexing it several directions at once. Only the oils ability to keep items apart avoids disaster

So not only are your bearing to crank clearances important but sides as well so the oil can spill evenly and continue this dynamic wedge flow. THE OIL HAS TO GET OUT TOO. And you can control this rate thru thought and experiment.

Sorry That make any sense? There won't be a test ....... but very blue parts will result if you didn't

 

Hey, for the fellows that are really into the early California Dry Lakes info and photography from the 1930s and early 40s, feel free to visit our club's website and head to the bottom of the page, where you'll be sure to find a link reading,

"History In Pictures"

That will take you to a section where you'll see some really nice photos that I have collected as copies from two fellows, (one our original club member) and the other the son of past member Jack Stebles.

Enjoy Fellas!

See them all at....

WWW.HOTIRONCLUB.COM

 

Enbloc, I also am new to bangers and enjoy this site alot. For some reason though I can not open your link. Am I doing something wrong?

 

You will need Adobe reader to open that file. It is a .pdf file and if you don't have a program to read that type of file, you won't be able to open it.

If you don't have the program, start hear:
http://www.adobe.com/products/reader/

It's free.
.

 

Bluto,
Yes, It makes a lot of sense.
After I broke my first stroker crank, I noticed that the bearing journal fillets were far too small (.030") When I took the crank to the shop that did the work on my engine, I pointed that out. I drew up a section of the assembly in Autocad and showed them that it was posible to get a .180" rad in all of the journal fillets. They agreed and I was assured that that info would be relayed to their crank grinder. When I got the new crank it only had .080" fillets and I was told that was the best they could do. Now that I have broken another crank, I will be finding another machine shop.

Because I have an A block that has been converted to insert bearings and preasurized I am going to look at the preasure wedge that you mentioned and see what I can do about that. I know that more modern engines have bearing inserts that flange around the bearing caps and block and those flanges control the oil preasure up the sides of the crank like thrust cushions and that may be what I'm missing in my engine.

Thanks for the info. You've given me something that I haden't thought of!!!!!!



.

 

Hi all looking for info on a mallory dizzy tag #YC465HP has CCW rotation 4 lobe points cam, dual points, tach drive, and appears to have same drive and dimensions as a chev small block I am going to turn it down to fit a banger and need a cap and rotor for it. also I need the lenght of the dist drive shaft for the short dizzy as mine went in a engine to a hamber a couple months ago. and while I am at it any pointers on drilling a C crankshaft for rod bearing oiling and converting to full pressure oiling on a diamond engine. I have a aluminum hi pressure/flow oil pump but unsure of how to seal above dizzy drive gear and running the oil lines from there. any info would be helpful or point me to the places I can get the pictures n sequence.
thanks

 

hey did ya get your pics yet I have the complete wood kit and would have to open it up (2 boxes) and find the ones you need
let me know can email pics with dimensions in us not metric
Ken

 

Well I made out well,..I "think"??!!

Went to an auction and found a Diamond A engine. Looked good, had only two little horzontal gouges in the 2nd and 3rd cylinder walls,...not deep at all, nothing that can't be taken out with a mild bore job. A bunch of great friends found out I wanted it but I had to leave before the auction got under way, and a friend bid on it and won it for me,..everyone else held off bidding as they knew I wanted it. (GREAT guys!!!!)

Friend with it on his trailer is dropping it off tomorrow,...gonna strip it down and see what's what,...the bore, etc. I didn't have a dial caliper on me at the time so i'm not sure on the bore size yet.

Take it to the machinist and have him magnaflux it, and see what we can do about those gouges.

I have to figure out what to do about my friggin leaking rear main seal in my NEW,...regardless of following the break-in procedure to the letter, after ONLY 45 miles the thing is leaking pretty good...and it was completely rebuilt too. That's the worst part.
Not very happy about that, not sure if I'll get it remidied without having to take care of it myself. Well, we'll see. The world's full of possibilities!

 

Craz

Normally pressure isn't controlled by the bearings flange. Those are for side load and thrust.

Problem I have with A-B engines is I don't know if you can get the oil volume and pressure needed without an external oil pump.

I have to really look inside a motor not drawings. Which is why I gotta get the B out.

Anytime a machine shop tells you 'That's the best w can do' Leave the part on the counter and walk out. Find some that cares to do quality work. Racing is expensive enough without that kindda 'We can charge for close' SHIT!

In your case they felt it was too expensive to dress the stone to your request and you paid for it.

 

This crank was replaced at "no charge" but I am paying for it now
Time for a new machine shop for me!!!!!

 

I went to the So Cal F.A.S.T. hill climb today with my Dad and Uncle.
Here are som pics.


Bills car. I got to see it run. Very quick!!!! I shot some video but I accidently deleted it. Sorry Bill










I posted more pictures here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=292251

 

Man..This thread, in fact the whole HAMB site, has convinced me that real hot rodding is alive and well. The "I can make that" attitude is what started hot rods down this long path to begin with. Well done bangers!