Hot Rods Working on the Vicky body, a build thread with pics

I don't think I have ever seen a brake system like this. Interesting solution! I did have a couple of questions about it and maybe others can chime in.
1) Shouldn't the port closest to the booster go to the front brakes?
2) Do you need the residual valves? Looks to me the master cylinder is above the brake calipers and I thought you only needed them if the master cylinder is below them.

 

Good questions. I always enjoy having a second set of eyes on my work.

On the first question, the MC is a disc/disc with front and rear chambers identical and no internal valving. According to Master Power Brakes, the supplier, there is no difference f/r unlike some factory MC where there is a large front reservoir for the discs and somewhat smaller rear setup and possibly internal residual valving. In short, it just made some stuff back there a bit neater to do it that way with no affect on application. I was wondering how long it would take somebody to catch.

As to the residuals, you are correct, I probably don't need them. Once again erring on the side of caution the valves are redundant and won't have an adverse affect even if they do nothing. Cheap insurance?

This brake system is not an original by any means, commonly used during the '70's on street rods, which I didn't know when I started this quest. Earlier in this thread and another I ran on this system explains this solution to a couple of sticky problems I have on this car, mostly just no room for anything. This car is very small, actually a bit smaller than a lot of T buckets. I've had it working on a vacuum tank and it seems to do what I want. My biggest concern is too little pedal pressure and overly sensitive brakes.

Lots of experimenting going on here. I might add, it ended up not being cheap and I may have been a bit better off just running the drum brakes and not following so close.

Thanks for the "Heads Up"!

 

Working of the details and prepping prior to paint today. Just Jonesing so bad for a run to Wildwood in this. Only one shot at the Fall Run this year as the TROG is not happening until 2024 although there is some talk of an unofficial gathering just no races. It's hard to stay motivated with a lot of other stuff on my plate but I just keep swinging.

I need to see this. For those elsewhere, this is the first gas stop rolling onto the island. Wildwood is the home of Doo Wop architecture and neon. Coming waaaaaay too fast!

 

I hope you keep to it. I want to see this neat rod on the road.

 

It's 102 deg. here and I'm building exhaust! This has gone from a project to an obsession. I can't think of anything else except getting this on the road. Still doable for the Fall Run.

 

Everything done on the chassis except I need about a half day of Scotchbright and 180 paper. I detest shooting this in the drive but it will be three months until a bay opens up. I'm putting some plastic and cardboard down and I'll go to it. I'm just shooting the whole mess together with the appropriate stuff masked. I could go with Rustoleum gloss black. Anybody know what hardner to put in with it? Never used it before but would probably work just fine here. Obviously lifting the engine/trans out to paint. Also mcsfabrication on here was nice enough to pass along the right bellhousing so I'm swapping out the '57 one on there now for the correct one for my trans while it's out.

 

Hey, Koz;
The last I heard, it's called(at least colloquially) Japan Drier.
Think it's used in furnature refinishing.
Found it in an old well-equiped hardware store, & also in the paint section of a big-box store called Menards.
Hope someone that knows for darn sure will chime in.
Marcus...

 

Why fog the whole damn thing in red oxide? Makes all your hard earned work look cheap

 

I agree it doesn't look good in red oxide. I shot everything, after Scotchbrighting it, that was bare metal because it had developed a slight "haze", (rust), from setting out under tarp for the last few months. I've used red oxide for years on structural steel to kill the haze with great results. It locks on well and after a few days curing sands and takes typical sealer nicely. I usually shoot my chassis in Eastwood Ceramic Chassis Black over a sealer as it is damn near bullit proof but I might just shoot this one in Rustoleum as an experiment on my own car.

The alternative would be to take everything apart, have it blasted with a fine abrasive, prep and paint and reassemble. I don't think this car is at that level by any means. It's pretty much a patched together beater in reality, just a well thought out one. I'll do a decent job of prepping it before paint and most of this doesn't show anyway. If I wait to get it inside it will be pretty rusted up and I really don't want it outside over the winter unpainted. It's a compromise I need to make. I would have needed to blast the frame and chassis components to epoxy primer it, which is the right way to do it.

I agree with you on this Tman but I'm just trying to get this one on the road in between a busy schedule otherwise.

nrgwizard, I am familiar with Japan dryer. I'm also thinking some 3/1 or 4/1 Activator may work nicely?

 

Don't know, highlander or a couple of other paint-guys might. There was a very knowledgeable guy that made paint, called Pats'55 (???) , but sadly, haven't seen him on here for a long time.
Do let us know how whatever you use, works out? TIA.
Marcus...

 

Welded up an exhaust the other night while it rained like hell here. Something I could knock off the list inside. I have the glasspacs split at the trans/ radius rod crossmember to get it 1" higher in the frame. With a 12" and an 18" muffler, and the 2 1/2" pipes and mufflers, turned down at the end, this should be reasonably acceptable to the local authorities. I have a 2" crosspipe in there as well which really helps to take the road drone out of this pipe setup. Not worried about dressing the welds as I'm going to wrap most of it to keep the heat in check. Just waiting for the wrap and ties to arrive. One more thing off the list. Can't see it in this pic but the hangers for the rubber isolator hangers are on the top. (other side). Everything clears nicely and is well away from critical heat areas, Its shot with 1800 degree exhaust coating to keep it from rusting under the wrap as long as possible.

 

I've gotten the chassis all sanded out to 240 and scotch brighted the weird stuff, (like lines etc.). Sanded up really nice for red oxide if you let it kick a bit. I chickened out and used Eastwood 2K Ceramic chassis black on everything in gloss. It didn't get too ugly for a driveway job, somewhere between a Sears vacuum cleaner sprayer and rattle cans. Actually I shot a solid coat with my Devilbiss and let it flash. I then gave it a wet wash coat that actually doesn't look too bad. I'm going to give it a day or two and hit the front part of the rails you see with a lambs wool to take out a bit of orange peel and some of the to be expected dust from a driveway job.

As I welded tap down clips for all the wiring harnesses when I did my lines putting the jute loom on is a no brainer. I want to get all the wiring underneath done before I set the body on, way easier. Finish up the loose ends and set the motor/trans in next. Feels like I'm making at least some progress here!

 

Go man go...everything about this build from the start has turned me on especially your final vision
I feel the excitement building....

 

Thanks for the kind words winduptoy! Working on getting the engine/trans ready to drop in. Finally starting to come together. Been a long road fer sure.

 

I know this has been done about 12,000 times but I'm negotiating on this '36 grille. It really looks good because it fits over the suicide mount "just right". It would take a bit of metalwork, particularly on the hood but I can deal with that. I also think the pointy look would go well with the rest of the body lines nicely. I've never been totally happy with the Chinesium one I have on there.

Waddaya think?

 

Shot the headlights and got some pics across the front. Didn't rub them out yet. Pretty neat but needs the corners filled a bit. Parking lights will help.

 

I'm good with it...goes with it's radical theme really and it has a swoop that matches the Vicky ass...

I like the others details that you've been busy on as well...looks great Koz...

 

Thanks Stogy! Sometimes I'm off on a tangent and end up trashing some good parts but this one I like a lot. There was a green '36 roadster tub on here a bit ago, I can't remember who built it, but it pulled the open wheel/'36 grill look off so well. Just something a little different.

This weekend is Fall Wildwood. Guess I'm not going to make it this year....

 

Koz , sorry I didn't get back to you on my dirt modified . It did run at Reading Fairgrounds in 1972 , it was the # 76 Gerry Chamberlain coupe . that won 31 races at reading in 72 . Car sold to Will Cagle in 73 and became the # 24 . I like how the Vicky is turning out , Koz you are a master at building rods !

 

The one I was talking about earlier. I know the builder is on here. Really cool but very different than my Vicky.

 

Wasn't that Brian from Kalamazoo?

 

That was built by @flynbrian48

 

Yup, that's one of my victims.

 

I always like stuff that is off the beaten path. That '36 is definitely in that category. Very neat!

 

Thanks @Tman , I couldn't do the "attention" link, as I was spelling Flyn, Flyin.

 

Hahaha. Took me several tries as well!

 

I like to be hard to find...

 

Finished up the rough in on the chassis wiring. All in old jute style loom from Brillman, with designated grounds for everything on to 3/8" brass studs/nuts brazed into the frame. Just another step toward dropping the engine in. The only chassis work I have to do yet is add the battery cables and weld on the bracket, which I missed, for the motor mount chain on the left side. The chassis paint is super easy to touch up so no big deal as I haven't blocked or rubbed out any of it yet. The front and rear looms in the first pic feed through some rubber grommets in the toeboard near the firewall to the fuse block under the dash. The tabs on the frame will be clenched onto the loom when the battery cable goes in. I need to set the motor in to get a proper length on the cable before I make it up though. Easy peasy!

Working on assembling the last of the motor/trans setup to drop that in. A lot of the parts that I was missing came this week. Going to be good to hear it run after all this time. Some pics for your perusal.

 

As long as it works and doesn't look like someone being different just to be different. The '36 & yours work. There must be a pile of '36 grills somewhere that were pulled to replace with Packard & LaSalle grills.

 

I need to paint the engine soon so I need to finalize my color scheme. I know I've been playing with various blacks and some burgundys but I came across this pic on the interweb and I really like the 1960's feel it has. I remember my Dad painting a '49 Olds fastback in this color in the early '60's. Most likely a Caddy Firemist color at that time. Eastwood has a decent match to this, Spruce Green Metallic, that looks pretty close. Easy to deepen it a bit if necessary. The wheel color is more of a wine burgundy than red and the motor could be the same color. Or I could just paint it black. Waddaya think?