Projects High compression heads worth it?

Bias plies sears allstate

 

Take notice that's a wheelchair behind the bike . Hopefully that will never be the backup I do stay on the sidewalk 85%

 

"Bias plies Sears Allstate"? Those sound like some ancient tires. I would seriously reconsider any high-speed test runs.

 

early 90's repro but the tread is great and they're in good shape

 

I'd buy one of the books off Amazon about hot rodding and building flathead motors for about $20 and read it before you spend any money on parts.
In my opinion, unless you spend a lot of money upgrading the engine, you are not going to see much difference in how your car performs. A flathead......these days is more about "nostalgic looks" than any real power or speed. If you keep the flathead, I'd buy the aluminum heads simply because nothing makes a flathead "LOOK" better than a nice set of aluminum heads.

That said, for $800 you could probably find a decent running 350 Chevy........but then you have to buy other parts to swap it. So, either keep saving your money till you can afford a swap, or go with the aluminum heads because they look really good.

 

I see. I have a lot of old books and magazines too. Not interested in engine swaps ever even if the engine blows and I had the money for a new engine it would get a new flathead. I just like them, especially the way they sound the nice burble from the exhaust

 

video from when I got it

 

I remember this sketchy mafioso looking guy that owns this auto shop near my house and 3 surrounding lots filled with old cars, 1966 plymouth barracuda, a couple old cj's, a 1961 fury, 65 mustang mostly 60's cars was going to sell me a tan/ light camel 1965 galaxie base model, bottom of the barrel cheapest, no heater, no radio 6cyl 3 speed. He was also going to give me a job but he disappeared a while ago never saw him again

 

Don't look now, but 30 years old IS ancient for tires (even bias plies).

Be careful.

 

8-10 years will blow at 65-70 mph and give you no warning.

 

I once changed a clutch on the street in front of a bar.

 

i mean of course it can be done i just meant where where I get the clearance to get it out

 

for now i'm safe because the car can't go that fast

 

Change a few laying in the ground. Helps if you straddle a ditch. Then ya got room.
I had a 15-20 year old Firestone damage a pristine door and fender on my 67.
I dig the car.

 

Nothing wrong with liking flatheads and how they sound. My point was that you will get limited results from increasing compression........probably not even noticeable when driving. You may however need to buy premium gas.....maybe.
Modifying a basic low compression engine, you have to ask yourself what will help the engine the most when its done.
Putting high performance exhaust doesn't help but you may be able to get a cool sound. It doesn't help much because the engine doesn't have enough performance to take advantage of it. So ask yourself what will you actually need to do if your goal is better performance.........OR.......what do you need to do to just make it look and sound cool even though performance doesn't actually increase much.

We all want performance.........but you have to be realistic about what you are willing to do to get some. If you want performance, then install a better cam and increase the compression. When money is available add more carburetion and a better ignition. Then later add some headers and better dual exhausts.

If you just want to cruise and look cool, add the aluminum heads and some type of aluminum intake and some dual exhausts.

Since you enjoy flatheads, the best thing you can do is to educate yourself by reading what the experts have written. You can learn more from reading one $25 book than you can pick up from self experience for years. Thats the best way to learn things that are specific to the engine. You get a lot of bad information otherwise. You learn enough that you will save more than the price of the book. Here is one, but they have others.
https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Flat...662132130&sprefix=Flathead+Ford,aps,92&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Flat...662132130&sprefix=Flathead+Ford,aps,92&sr=8-2

 

Some interesting reading.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-1301-flathead-ford-intake-manifold-smackdown/
I printed a copy that had more information than the current smackdown version on the web. It has been gutted a bit. In the head comparison the edge appears to be with the Navarro heads in some engine configurations. The best power upgrade maybe a T5 transmission with the stock engine.

 

Vacuum advance is the issue it won't advance once you hit 40 which is why it has no power that's it figured it out

 

It's called being resourceful. Sit and think on it and the answer will come to you.

 

Aha I knew it all along! Also I was incorrect about the vacuum advance it's fine I was reading the thing wrong. I'll adjust the timing tomorrow. I had a feeling this was the issue

 

Ok so I unbolted the distributor and adjusted it by ear, it makes no difference no matter how far I turn it. The vacuum advance line makes it hard to turn too. When it's all the way turned to the left it's almost fine but not really. Any ideas?

Also the belt or something started squeaking at the front. Can't tell exactly what if it's a pulley or a belt

 

Yes, but read with care. I read Joe Abbins book on how to supercharge a flathead ford and it cost me $20k. Should have stuck to the Playboys...and by stuck I don't mean, oh, never mind.

 

Throw a vacuum gauge on it and time it that way.

 

that's what I did. made no difference

 

Maybe this will help.......

 

its really a combo of all this the needle is all over the place. after the engine smooths out while idling it jerks back and forth in the late timing zone

 

Aaaanndd......

Someone siphoned my gas. Fantastic.

 

Well, I guess you answered your own question. If you have a problem with gas siphoning where you are, a set of finned heads wouldn't last the night.

 

The answer to your question is none of the above. First and foremost your car needs to be reliable and safe to drive. That means good brakes, master, steering, tires, etc.

As to performance, you will yield far more "performance" out of a T5 swap than any of the engine mods you list here. A taller first gear to multiply the power you have, and a long OD gear to make it freeway friendly.

And after 4 pages, do I really need to be the guy to suggest saving for a 2 door instead of speed parts?

 

Brakes, tires, steering 1st. Always.

Then 302 and C4. It will be cheaper in long run then building Flathead.

 

Hmmmmm.