I have a 64 Galaxie, Im doing the 77 Tbird swap. I have the dual disc/drum master and im not running a booster. i have 3 questions : 1. Will this proportioning valve work ? http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_755192_-1_10165 2. For the front lines do I just run the line to a "T" and then to the front brakes, do i need any sort of valve for the front ? [ i dont think i do, but im not much of a pro when it comes to disc brakes ] 3. i have a 72 Mustang master cylinder, it doesn't say which reservoir is for the front or rear lines, i know the bigger is usually for the front [ which makes sense ] but i've been looking at some pics of Mustangs that say otherwise, so I wanna make sure i do this right. The rear reservoir is bigger so im pretty sure in this case its for the front lines. L
I would reccomend that you get a combination valve - it combines all the necessary features to take full advantage of your disc brake swap - (metering valve, proportioning valve, etc) like this one: http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=611 Do yourself a favor and peruse this website - especially the tech section - they have lots of info and all the parts to get those disc brakes working correctly.
I would use a differential valve from a Ford with similar brakes. Make sure you remove it from the donor car, and draw a map for where the lines come from and go to. I am using one from a Granada, and my master is from a 69 Fairlane. I seems to work great, I have several years on it.
Are there any other options than a $100 valve from MPB?!? I called NAPA and they said that combo/proportioning valves are absolutely unavailable since they are still Ford ONLY parts and would have to come from a dealer. I don't want an adjustable valve, just a plain OEM style combo valve Are these valves marque-specific? I see "GM-style" valves all over ebay and they look identical to the MPB, and I think the same as the ones that come with Ford disk kits. I'm putting this on a Ford, so does it matter?
I have a 53 ford truck with disck in front and drums in the rear. The master cylinder is under the floor board. I was told that since the cylinder is under the floor, that I should use the valves. I used a 2 lb check valve for the fronts and a 10 lb check valve for the rears. I also installed an adjustable proportioning valve for the rears. I ordered everything from Summit. It has worked out great. I am glad that I had an adjustable proportioning valve because I had to adjust the pressure for proper stopping.
Hellfish, I don't think they're "mark" specific as much as vehicle specific. The variables: the vehicle CG, brake type front/rear, vehicle weight, etc etc. All get accounted for when the factory designs a proportional valve. How many are there - beats me. I think a reasonable idea is to select a proportioning valve from a vehicle as close to what you're building as possible. On my last one - I had a '47 Ford truck - which I added '77 Ford Truck disc brakes and a 9" rear axles. It made sense to go with a 1/2 ton Ford truck proportioning valve from a truck with the same brakes. CG would be close, vehicle weight, wheel base, brakes were the same. So I used it. I found a factory Ford proportioning valve new in the box for 20 bucks from Ebay. I got lucky. The "generic" ones are probably close - IF you have a "typical" vehicle (whatever that means). It's harder IMHO to get a "deal" on a part that is sold regularily on Ebay - I'd think you're gonna have to look a little harder and get a little lucky like I did. Otherwise I would suggest you contact someone like MPB and consult with them. Good Luck!
Wouldn't the porprotioning valve be the same no matter what the size of the vehicle ? Isn't the pressure the same - { 2lbs in front and 10 in the rear } whether its a hot rod or a truck, but the size of the rotors / drums / booster make the difference in the braking ? Am I wrong ? - i like learning
The 2lb 10lb thing has nothing to do with your vehicle. Those are residual valves to hold pressure on the brakes when your m/c is below the floor. You need a stock type P/V as was said. ABS advertises in all the mags, they have what you need. I bought onr from them. They're in Orange, CA BTW, the adjustable type don,t work for shit with your set up. good luck, Ron
^ im not talking about the residual valve [ i dont need em because my M.C is on the firewall ] , im talking about how the P.V controls how much pressure is released to the brakes, disc brakes use 2lb in the front and the valve gives the rear 10lbs, what im sayin is . . . . . isn't that pressure the same no matter the size of the car ?
what's a "CG"? I have a 65 Econoline and plan to haul stuff, but most of the time it will be empty... it's pretty lightweight, so I guess a pickup p-valve would be good. The MC is under the floor, no booster. I'm converting to disks and i have the residual valves. Is it true you can't get a p-valve at the parts store? WHY???! MPB only sells one kind for disk/drum under the floor, I think. Can I safely pull one from a junkyard? Does year matter as long as it's disk/drum? Kevin at HotRodChassis strongly discouraged using an adjustable p-valve, too then you ARE talking about the residual valves... or at least that's what it sounds like to me
Shoprat was right, you are confusing two differently functioning valves. Residual valves retain pressure on the wheel end when the brake pedal is at rest. A proportioning valve allocates how much pressure is delivered front and back when the pedal is depressed. A proportioning valve proportions a percentage, say 60/40 of the total brake line pressure divided front to back.
I don't deal our parts but I use them daily and I'm pretty sure that we carry themfor less then a hundred. Go to www.hotrodhardware.com and you can pick your way to get in touch with one of the sales guys. They will help ya out no problem! (i know shameless plug!) But help is help! You don't want the wrong parts when it comes to brakes!
Chieftan - thanks for the tip. I didn't know about your company. I only saw an adjustable proportioning valve though.
I see "GM-style" universal valves like what MPB sells. If MPB sells universal valves, does it really matter what vehicle your valve came from as long as it was disk-drum? Would it matter if the MC was on the firewall or under the floor?
Nope and Nope Hellfish. Valves are valves. And there are pretty much only two kinds. Drum/Drum or Disk/Disk (they are the same) and Disk/Drum.
I have done several '60-'64 Galaxie disc swaps including my own '64. I have used the Mustang/Maverick M/C as well as the '93 Dodge Tradesman 1/2 ton van M/C. You will not need and sort of proportioning valve or combination valve to speak of. Bolt on your M/C, plumb the lines, and bleed. It will work correctly as is. The T-bird spindle swap sounds easy, but 9 times out of 10 you will not be able to set the camber correctly without some modifications to the upper control arm, or welding up of the upper spindle hole and re-reaming it. For that reason, I use the stock spindle, and bolt on a '72-'79 Torino rotor, and I use a big G.M. caliper with a bracket I fabricate.
Actually the proportioning valve does control pressure, but not in 2lb or 10 lb increments. It's generally 70% front and 30% rear of the available pressure. Disk brakes usually run from 800lbs to 1000lbs and drums operate at 400lbs to 600lbs. But that's just a range, and as long as you have 800lbs and 400lbs minimum, you'll get functional, safe brakes. The proportioning (or combination valve in disk/disk and drum/drum setups) valve holds of the front brakes until the rear shoes engage the drum and a preset pressure in the line is reached. Then the valve opens the front circuit and allows the fronts to come on. This prevents nose dive, gives you a better brake feel along with better control of the car in a braking situation, and also prevents the fronts from locking up right away in a panic stop. Now, they will lock up. But the idea is that you will have your initial response of jamming on the pedal, and then a reasonable person will start to pump the brakes. The 2lb and 10lb RESIDUAL PRESSURE valves are used in conjunction with the combination valve is nothing more than a check valve. By keeping 2lbs (disks) and 10lbs (drums) in the line between the caliper or wheel cylinder, and the master cylinder, the fluid is not allowed to be pushed back into the master cylinder (which is usually caused by both gravity AND the return springs (in drums). This keeps the pads and shoes CLOSE but NOT TOUCHING the rotor or drum. The result is no "double pump" brakes, and a higher faster reacting pedal.
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