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Hot Rods Quick and easy early Chrysler Hemi question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Doug520, Jun 16, 2024.

  1. Doug520
    Joined: Apr 21, 2016
    Posts: 201

    Doug520
    Member

    I'm having a Hemi built for my Model A coupe. It'll have chromed FirePower valve covers on it. I was looking at the Hemi photo thread and I can't decide if I want the ignition wire openings in the valve covers to have the rubber plugs in the openings or if I want them to be open. What are those rubber plugs that the wires pass through called and where do you get them? I'm guessing they're not made for the early Hemi but rather for the later 426 Hemi and adapted to the early Hemi's?
    Also, never having owned a Hemi of any type, I have no idea on this either: do the ignition wires have some sort of hard plastic ends at the plug end that extend toward the valve cover surface that help attach the wire to the plug, or do they just have regular plug ends on them? If that's the case, are they tricky to get the plug end of the wires attached to the plug?
     
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  2. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,520

    jaracer
    Member

    My 54 New Yorker had long maybe bakelite ends on the plug wires. That allowed you to attach the wires to the plugs that are way down in the tubes. If I remember right, you weren't supposed to use washers on the spark plugs.
     
    Hemi Joel likes this.
  3. Most of us use wheel cylinder rubber boot caps to hold the wire centered in the plug tube. It keeps dirt and junk from getting down inside the tube as well as preventing the wire from wearing against the tube and shorting to the tube. In stock form there is and actual clip that holds the wire in place as they all bunch together under the stock top cover and are kind of self supporting. I wouldn't run without them specially on a hoodless Hot Rod.
     
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  4. This is my solution. I get these rubber covers at the junk yard. they come from Toyota 4-bangers. There are two types, you need the ones with an "R" on he lip. Use a razor to cut off the outer lip. I use these Accel silicone wirers that reach the plugs.

    The factory use either white porcelain tubes or Bakelite tube to reach the plugs. Expensive if you can find them and old-tech.

    IMG_1593.JPG P8230084.JPG Rubber shields.jpg

    Also I form a wide lip on the tubes so they will seal without the wire covers using this wood fixture.

    IMG_1537.JPG IMG_1538.JPG IMG_1539.JPG IMG_1540.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2024
  5. Hemi Joel
    Joined: May 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,553

    Hemi Joel
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  6. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,673

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Originally the spark plugs were surrounded by aluminum tubes. The spark plugs were put in without washers, the aluminum tube made the washer and there was a rubber seal at the top. Early slant sixes used a similar arrangement.

    Then there was a white ceramic end on the plug wire that reached nearly to the top of the tube. On top there was a long steel cover that contained all the spark plug wires and was held down by 4 screws.
     
  7. They also made them with steel tubes. those in my post above are steel.
     
  8. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,556

    Budget36
    Member

    I’ll never have a Hemi, but have seen you post about this before.
    Good work!
     
  9. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 4,432

    RodStRace
    Member

    I'll mention that 1950s wires are not what you buy today, so the pull to remove and push to install is going to be rougher than modern suppression wire is built for. That's why having something like what @willys36 shows is important over time.
     
  10. Some good info here. As mentioned just pulling on the wire to remove can give you a headache. I built a Hook if you want to call it that to go down under the plug boot and lift it off. No more metal clip left on the plugs.
     
  11. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 5,391

    bchctybob
    Member

    I just use 1 1/8” wheel cylinder cups, punch a hole for the wire with a leather punch and install them cup down. They work fine but I can see that there are plenty of foreign cars in the wrecking yards that might have something useful that might look better.
     
  12. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,862

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    “I was standing in line with Mr. Jimmy
    IMG_2847.jpeg
    You can't always get what you want
    But if you try sometimes, well, you just might find
    You get what you need“
     
  13. That's my engine! Has Marine valve covers now. A few months ago I traded the small valve '52 331 heads for big valve 354 truck heads. While I was at it, I added the Marine covers with the adjustable rocker arm bumps. It's all for show!!
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2024
    bchctybob and Johnny Gee like this.
  14. Here is the porcelain insulator tube. I had these on my '52 331 hemi. Work on plain small plug wires. Don't think the modern fat, fancy silicone wires will fit.
    upload_2024-6-17_15-54-29.png

    Here is the Bakelite plastic type tube. The '54 331 I just built came with these. Again, likely too skinny to fit modern fat wires.
    upload_2024-6-17_15-54-8.png

    These are late model 426 wires. Available many places. Definitely work on early engines but a bit $$$$$$ compared to the DIY systems described above.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,389

    dwollam
    Member

    I used the 426 Hemi rubber boots on my '52 331 with '54 heads and intake.

    Dave
     
    Hemi Joel and willys36 like this.

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