Nice project! I delivered groceries in one for two years during and after High School. Would like to find a solid one today. Bob
Thanks, I don’t know yet what I am going to do with this one yet but I did know that I wasn’t going to let it be crushed! I’ve got more projects going that is taking priority and at 64 years old I need to get moving on them, I have three Chevy AD trucks for chassis swaps, an 80 Chevy square body and a 65 Ford F-500 that was a dry chemical fire truck that has 10,214 actual miles. All the Chevys are going to grandchildren and the Ford will be my toy!
I haven't had time to get down to his place yet. He lives about 1 1/2 hours away. Thank you for sending it my way!
For a rear axle, you might want to look into the 8.8 that came in Ford Explorers from 1996 into the early 2000s. Most all of them come with a 3.55 or 3.73 gear and limited slip. and disc brakes. Nice parking brake system too. Standard Ford small 5 lug bolt pattern. The caution is that they are offset, one long axle and one short axle, but that might work for this van, because I think you would want to narrow it. If you get another short axle from a second one, you only have to narrow it on one side. I believe narrowing it, it comes in around 58 inches wide (please double check that, going on memory).
Started messing with this again. Life got in the way and kicked my ass for a while. Evidently gremlins got into my shop and hid all my parts cause I can't find shit. Trying to finish up the engine install etc. Pics later...
You could probably salvage the mounts from your old radiator and attach them to this one. I recognized this radiator right away since I’ve owned a Maverick once upon a time.
Well the Maverick rad is a no go.... It didn't pass the pressure test. I see some new aluminum ones are available I rebuilt the carb and now working on the linkage.
All of the engine dog house panels are pretty beat up but the rear one was really bad. I got it back in shape and added a bump out to clear the upper bell housing bolts.
When repairing the doghouse, try to consider stepping up in service and comfort on these cheap commercial products. The Dodges had little points of metal and 'cardboard' holding on the insulation, along with U-nuts and bolts holding them down. The points tended to break off after flexing a few times and the hardware often ended up missing and rusty. Finalize your plans before the last of the metal work.
Hmm I hadn't thought about insulation. It doesn't look like it ever had any. Will need to address that. Thanks.
These are over a decade old and a dodge, but might help you plan. Consider different clips to hold in place. Supplies I used. Insulation, spray glue and tape for the edges. Taping the edges. Finished.
Hey Scott you're welcome..I wish I had more time to really check your projects. Juli really liked MT we want to go back
I pulled the rear end.... I needed to do some repair on the leafs and shackles anyway. Going to put in the 9 inch I have. That's probably overkill but its what I have and will make it simple to change gear ratios if I need to
Supposedly some of them came with a 9" rear in the last years they were made. I dunno. The one I'm using is from a '63 full size car. Width is right but I had to move the spring pads
Got the 9 inch back together and bolted in. Working on the rear brakes now. Need to get the drive shaft made next...
We have BRAKES! I had to replace every single component of the brake system, including the hard lines. Got it filled and bled today. Yeah I know, minor battle, but one more small step forward!
I don't know how long your driveshaft is the one in my fc ended up being 11"... U have no idea how much I Hate doing brakes...great progress
I haven't had much time for this lately but did manage to get the fuel tank and line installed. So about done underneath. Happy holidays to everyone!
Anybody know how to get this ignition switch out of the dash? Tried the twist and push... It won't let go. What am I missing? I don't have the key
Hope you have the key. Insert key. This is usually done in the OFF position. Yours seems to be in the ON position. Turn key and tumbler to the left (ACC). Insert safety pin (or similar) into the hole in the tumbler face, pushing against the spring pressure. Turn the key and tumbler more to the left to remove tumbler from the housing. The bezel (ACC, OFF, ON, START) uscrews from the lock housing. If you don't have the key, price out having a key made locally VS a replacement tumbler. It used to be the tumbler was cheaper, so you would drill it out. I don't know if they are still available easily.