My journey started in October of 2019 when I took the leap and with cash in hand purchased a 1928 Ford Model A frame and a trailer load of parts. When I got home I immediately called a friend to see if he would be interested in buying the 9” rear and late model Lincoln front end. I already knew this was going to be a traditional build and I wouldn’t be needing those parts. This was the foundation for the’34 flathead that I already had When people would ask what I was doing I just said I was building a kit car without the kit. So then I bought the Bishop/Tardel book ,joined the H.A.M.B. and got to work. I always knew that a model A body would be out of my reach and besides body work is not something I want to do anyway I like the mechanical parts and like them to be seen, besides speedsters are cool and the whole purpose of this build is just to have something to cruise the backroads I don’t have a time frame for completion because I want this to be fun .After 2 years I was able to have a roller but everything is just tacked together it will all have to come apart. All the major pieces are in place and I think will work together Here are the particulars Model A frame 1934 flathead and transmission Tardel K member (modified) ‘33-‘34 banjo rear 4.11 with hydraulic brakes Model A front spindles hydraulic brakes 2 tooth model A steering box Dropped front axle of unknown manufacture 19” rims Speedway medium arch reverse eye rear spring Speedway front spring This will now be my journal for any future work and I may talk about things I have already been working on ,all though most of what I have done has been taken right out of the pages of the H.A.M.B. Now for the main feature presentation I have compiled some of my pictures into a short video Enjoy Todd
Nice work! Just one suggestion, turn your phone sideways for pics and videos so ya get a full screen. Dave
I used the ‘play memory video’ feature on iPhone and it did some automatic cropping but alot of the photos came out really good it got rid of annoying background and I didn’t go back and edit For just a simple introductory video it was very quick and easy If you would like to see additional pictures of any particular parts let me know I’ve got plenty Always like good feedback and suggestions And will try to answer any questions about how or why I did something and my thought process Thanks Todd
Dang, when they say a picture is worth a thousand words, this is a prime example. Well done. Curious how this is going to end up when completed.
This is what I have been working on recently. Back in the spring I attended my first true swap meet, had a great time, picked up a T steering wheel. A speedster just looks good with a T wheel but how to mount it on a A tapered shaft, T is straight shaft, and maintain the timing and throttle levers plus the appearance and the T wheel has reverse dish So I bought a rough A wheel for the center hub and sat down at the drafting table (see my thread on drafting tables on the Antiquated, don’t know how to insert links any help is appreciated) More to come
Great start on Speedster, particularly like the steering wheel adaptation! Where did you get the ball-and-socket wishbone ends??? (another cool Speedster feature!) Tardel cross member was a good fit, you mentioned 'narrowing' it? Guess the frame is narrowed?
That was just flat fun and interesting to watch. For once, music you turn up a bit rather than cut the sound too. That's got me wanting to go see what kind of A frame my neighbor has in his stash that I might talk him out of.
Thanks The ball and sockets are model A I just machined plates to accept the sockets and threaded the balls for studs that thread into standard splint bone bungs The k member was just modified for a better bolt in installation I’m actually doing everything I can not to modify the frame Maybe someday I like to go back to unsplit bones Todd
Fore steering wheel adapter made a washer welded to hub then drilled and tapped it for 1/4-28 Now I need to space the T wheel out so machined a spacer with a skirt to blend in with the A column Then milled 4 holes in T wheel Now I am wrapping
https://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/who-still-uses-drawing-drafting-tables.1266706/ Well I’m learning how to use the thread tools ,here is the link for my drafting table thread from previous post
And where I talked about my authentic wing knock offs https://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wing-knock-offs-for-my-speedster.1239694/
https://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1923-dodge-brass-era-speedster-build.751048/ https://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/%E2%80%98shoe-horn%E2%80%99-single-seater-speedster.1257714/ https://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/shade-tree-model-a-speedster-kind-of-thing.1086809/ https://jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr...rd-“lil’-sue”-30s-two-seat-speedster.1101450/ I’m still wrapping my T steering wheel the twine I got is really small and it takes awhile Just want to give a shout out to some of the other speedsters being built Feel free to let me know of any I have missed and any pictures of speedsters you may have My next post I will show how I modified my model A steering box to clear V8 cylinder head
If you like a simple T speedster Shed by the tracks has built a nice one https://youtube.com/channel/UCAedYPevngBV1759MaizMfg Also performs his own music
Here is my modification to use model A steering with flathead v8 Started by turning down mounting flange (also machined for needle bearing and lip seal) Used a 1” plate ,bored hole for newly turned down sector housing, Counter bored 3 cap screws to replace the 3 studs holding the sector housing Relieved area for housing adjusting nut To adjust sector gear use 3 short bolts adjust eccentric remove bolts install plate and cap screws Steering box is then mounted to frame with 4 bolts threaded into 1” plate it sets nicely into the recess of the stock exhaust manifold looks like it was made to be there Shortened pitman arm to maintain proper steering geometry with my split bones for no bump steer didn’t lose any steering radius because looks like I would have had clearance problems with longer pitman arm Disadvantages Can’t remove steering box with motor installed Can’t remove cylinder head with motor installed (can retorque ) Have to remove motor to adjust steering box Advantages Get to use my model A steering box and stock wiring Upgraded box with needle bearing and lip seal with easier steering from shortened pitman arm Future updates If worried about frame flex I can thread holes in 1”plate top and bottom to secure top and bottom frame rails around cut out area Sector shaft is worn but have extras so might try to weld one up and turn down This was something I looked at very early in my build because it was a major road block for me but I think this is going to work very well Todd
Model A steering wheel My new model T steering wheel Seem to have a brass /bronze theme going on here
Thanks everyone This post is to help anyone using’33-‘34 motor mounts The first thing to do on a build is to set the motor in place so after consulting THE BOOK I had the motor mounts set in place using the 1/4” hole in the frame for the hood hold down Set the motor in place with the rear mount ,stood back to take a look , WTF The motor had at least a 10* tilt My first set back After some research found out they changed the motor mount height for ‘35 ended up turning the mounts upside down cut the ears down and welded to bottom of frame With a little hammer work the biscuits fit inside the mount I think I still need to box the frame at the motor mount but I’ve got 1* up in front to allow for the 1* rake that I will probably end up having in the car Till next time Todd
With a little bit of reworking I was able to use a model A throttle assembly and linkages turned the lever 180* And retained the hand throttle Made my own ‘spoon’ pedal
Long overdue time for a update I’ve taken a break from the forum for a while Been concentrating my energy on moving shop equipment and getting my new space workable The speedster project is still always in my mind
Tried the method of using oxiclean to etch aluminum Really like it Matches the bolts I’ve been blueing with birch wood gun blue
Took some time this summer to get some inspiration HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone hope to be back soon with more updates really want to get this’34 engine assembled and fired up for’24
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